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USA: From November 21 – November 28, 2022: Save 27% off retail price on Beolit 20, 24% off retail price on Beoplay HX, 37% off retail price on Beosound A1 and 40% off retail price on Beoplay Portal — “at participating Bang & Olufsen monobrand locations in the US and on Bang-olufsen.com only. Product availability may vary from Bang & Olufsen partner location and certain exclusions may apply.”
I saw a price quote from New York USA, elsewhere may vary: The Contour frame is 55-inch “2nd Gen” black anthracite, model 1860950. The 55″ screen listed LG’s model number OLED55C2PUA. My dealer (not the one who issued the quote) claimed that B&O revised the frame to match the new LG screen. If you ask for a price quote, likewise they should list your country’s LG model number, since they are acting as an LG dealer, selling un-modified stock TVs, not some B&O special part/order. (The dealer actually assembles the pieces: a Contour frame, a Stage/for-Contour, a cloth or wood cover, and the LG TV.)
“May”? be related? What [else] does that setting do?
Could someone please actually test this with their ASE2 device, for example a BeoSound1(2gen), with a local source, for example a local UPnP/DLNA server playlist/queue? It used to be that tapping the top would, if no other source was playing, beep once, then pick up where it left off in the previously-paused local source.
[caveat: I do not own one, but I believe:] Give up on the bi-directional tape-to-tape dubbing aspect by unplugging an external tape deck and plugging in a DIN-to-4xRCA cable. Then connect the output pair of RCA plugs to a 2xRCA-to-3.5mm stereo cable, because 3.5mm plug (male) or 3.5mm jack (female) is what most inexpensive Bluetooth transmitters use. Connect one of the many, many, many available BT transmitter boxes. Use its app or manual pairing (if available) to connect your Bluetooth wireless speaker or headphones.
If you want the second deck back — for playback only — get a custom 2xRCA female -to- female DIN cable to take the output of the 2nd tape deck back to the input pair on the receiver. Or there may be some fancy bidirectional BT transmitter-*And*-receiver that could take BT input to the Beomaster, better than that second tape deck unless you’re trying to maintain historical accuracy.
Actually BS-Emerge seem to be very specific to its power source. I’ve tried to connect it to three different USB-C chargers with capacities from 10 to 30 watts and it doesn’t react to any of them (the lamps on toop doesn’t turn on at all), which is strange.
That’s because your (older) power supplies are not USB-PD compliant. See a previous thread and scroll down to the end:
https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/new-member-looking-to-add-an-emerge-to-my-collection/
1) Yes, of course you should *test* it wired. For the cost of one 20′ and one 40′ prepack Category 6 (or even Cat 5e, it doesn’t need expensive cables) you can eliminate all uncertainty as to software vs. [hardware damage + transmission failure]. If that fails, you just return them, full stop (and ask why your dealer didn’t deliver & set up your $15,000.00-to-$18,000.00 speakers as part&parcel of the sale).
2) Sonos got issued a lot of bogus patents way too easily, but their original ones — for building & automatically maintaining a mesh network and synchronization among their zones — were real gems. Versus B&O which must rely on the quality of the underlying Wi-Fi network. Making your Wi-Fi network error-free may or may not be possible depending on where you live and what hardware you use. But that’s where you go, next. Another reason to at least try cables as part of the debugging process. See #1 above.
3) There may yet be a B&O software bug responsible; recovery from transmission errors requires both high quality software engineering and a transmission channel that isn’t too frequently hit. (And doing the pairing at all, though it sounds easy to you & me, still requires a fair bit of software.) Or there may yet be a hardware bug, or some defect with your particular units’ Wi-Fi SoC or antennas. (One might argue that debugging this isn’t your problem, but what price beauty?) Cabling them up for a test gives you a baseline from which to work. See #1 above.
I agree with you that Sonos’ system software is way more developed than B&O’s. B&O doesn’t even have a method (well, at least not customer-facing) to tell the units to report how well their transmissions (receptions, actually in most cases) are working. But complaining about that and waiting for reply or updates is a fool’s errand. Good luck, and please don’t forget to post once you figure it out!
[[O.T. @matador, but I said that just to remind regular users to click the picture button! The offensive are other forums (automotive) that thumbnail *all* pictures except to members. (Oh, and also I thought that particular photo should be visible to non-members. If it were, e.g, someone’s living room with daisy wallpaper or tightly-placed sofas, I would not “out” their choice to make it a members-only attachment.) Some people just want to browse & don’t want to login. Likewise my shading language about B&O’s Discord: I don’t want to “create a relationship” by giving my data to get to see (==join) a discord. Related, it’s kind of a bummer that @Mikipedia decided to roll his own (which I don’t get to lurk/see) rather than participating here after the reboot.]]
What’s this thing?
It’s the love child of a Level and the Balenciaga bag. I think that’s 100% digital art, from the B&O design studio as artist, vs. the third-party artists. By the way, it offends me when websites don’t let casual non-logged-in users see pictures, so here it is as an image and not a hidden attached-file as @Mbee posted:
So you have to join B&O’s Discord, to get an “allow” to bid for an NFT, using your third-party Ethereum coins (and having loaded a browser plug-in to manipulate your wallet)… which NFT, when minted, will be a randomized grouping of product & surfaces… That’s a lot of steps to get into the nightclub with ~2000 others. As I read it, the only physical manifestation they have committed to produce — which your NFT “allow” you to purchase — is a Skiniplay cover for the A9, showing the art in static form. (“some” art? your specific NFT art? they say limited edition which implies a production run and not custom-per-single-user NFT)
To @kuyttendaele who wondered why survival mode could countenance this: It’s free money for selling ideas, kind of like software was viewed in the 1980s, and unlike software, there’s no post-sale customer support: The work is all done by third parties, from the currency to the art, even to the physical production ultimately farmed out. (For now, anyway.) All B&O need is a contract giving them absolute yes/no editorial control — and one young, low-paid, but fashionista employee to run the thing. Makes the design staff happy too, if their ideas are picked up as that particular art channel. It’s good advertising, and maybe even buzz for the youth market, even if the youths don’t want or get out-bid on the NFTs.
[Edit: Since the B&O NFT web page first linked above itself has a broken link to the HighSnobiety article, here it is. They include an explanatory P.R. quote from Christoffer Poulsen: https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/bang-and-olufsen-nft-collection/ ]
I have a pair of BS-levels (+ a BL11) and…
…I’m happy with my BS-levels and addition of BL11, which compensates for the weaker BS-levle’s bass register.
How are you connecting the BL11 to a source with two Levels, in sync?
Promo ending tomorrow, October 15, per B&O’s e-mail — plus footnote: “Beosound Explore only available in Green variant.”
(Of course they mean that the free one is now Green not Chestnut. As of today in the NA market, all colors are available on the website, even Navy which was formerly out of stock.)
I don’t think so. But try resetting your 18s in the middle of the night when the TV is known to be off. And then don’t unplug them, forever thereafter. The “full reset” instructions in your manual are:
RESET: Press and hold the button for two seconds to reset the wireless setting of a wireless speaker. The status indicator is solid red for 10 seconds, then it flashes green quickly. The speaker is now in associate mode and ready to be connected to the wireless transmitter. If you press and hold the button for 10 seconds the speaker is reset to factory settings.
Hopefully the factory settings will trigger the green-fast-flash on startup, which will then time out because nobody is around to finish the pairing? But if not and they “conveniently” re-pair with the transmitter which has memorized them and always on the lookout for “lost” connections — not an impossible mistake for a firmware author, given how bad radio interference is known to be — well, perhaps you can approach your neighbor with beer (or boxing gloves) to turn off or reset their transmitter?
DETAILS: WiSA pairing requires both ends to take some positive action. Usually this happens by powering up the speakers and the WiSA transmitter “at the same time,” because they all default into pairable mode for some period. I.e. the TV couldn’t have paired with your speakers unless the 18s were in LED-flashing-green-fast mode, AND then the TV/transmitter also was powered up or some button (or app click) was done to it. Maybe that’s not true for some “aggressive” transmitter brand that just gloms onto any-old-thing in range? But that would be very odd. So if full reset doesn’t work, then I’m curious to know what the transmitter is: B&O TV, Transmitter1, or a WISA SoundSend, Axiim Link, or…? Not that you owe me, but the answer to this question is just saving you time because it’s probably the first thing you’ll be asked by your dealer or B&O “tech support”. Re-connecting automatically is the done thing, but re-pairing automatically must be banned by the spec. One hopes! The obvious exception is if both you and your neighbor are using a hard power switch to turn off your speakers/TV/transmitter, rather than leaving them plugged in all the time and allowing them to do their own low-power sleep. If that’s the case, you might just be getting unlucky power-up timing! Yes, electricity is getting more expensive, but the standby “vampire” power really isn’t so much to pay vs. this inconvenience…
Website BOGO: “For a limited time, every purchase of two or more speakers comes with a complimentary Beosound Explore in Chestnut.” Not that you would think of this as any kind of a discount on your Beolab 90 purchase (barely even on two A1s vs. retailer discounts) but if you were planning to gift Explore(s) to someone(s), now is as good a time as any to buy 2 and get 3. (seen on US/CA website, doesn’t say promo end date or whether it’s country-specific.)
slanbexx wrote: Afraid I have a hard time making out the crack on pin 7 in the picIt’s the dark “smiley”:
Glitch wrote: It might be just the camera angle, but the solder from TR32 seems close to the trace.Also maybe camera, but TR31 “E” and “C” look like there might be a short in that labyrinth of solder dots. (Can’t be, given the symptom you describe, but still worth a check.)
I regret saying anything. You have a dealer who will let you borrow a Beolab 19? Just do it! Then you will know how it sounds.
People already go pushing their subwoofers around the room to eliminate room modes, and live to tell the tale without “incoherence of the bass” ever being discussed. Also, I completely disagree with @Die_Bogener about straight-line. Even putting a sub in the middle of two 8000s which are in an equilateral triangle with you, already shortens the distance somewhat! If any expert reads this and would care to weigh in, especially if your large room size makes the effect (if any) better or worse, that would be great, but it’s still theory until you “pressurize the volume” yourself.
As to the 11, in a large room you might think either: (a) any little bit will help, or (b) that’s not enough to even notice. Maybe *two* 11s, one for each 8000? (Joke but not joke.) You just have to *try* it, unless you’re an audio genius with a modelling program.
But after re-reading your initial post I wondered why you would spend Beolab 19 bucks on a woofer given that part of the point of the 8000s was being a bargain. I love the way they look myself, and would never switch to 20s from a designy point of view, but if you can get them for a reasonable price… from a sound point of view, I might make an exception… Their 10″ woofers are good for your large room, and the acoustic lenses let you roam around too. In all ways except looks superior to 8000s.
P.S. Don’t forget to post saying what you finally installed. A picture would not go amiss either…(:-)
The Beolab 19 will have a very slight delay (4.4 msec) from the 8000s — DSP takes time vs. analog instant sound. This may not matter if the 8000s have no significant output at those frequencies anyway, to phase-cancel. But in the (unlikely) event you find the bass uncompelling, place the 19 closer to your main listening position than the 8000s by 1.5 meters.
This may help – at least as a start. Cheers – geoff
Grateful for the info but worried for the result: TrueImage has the potential to cause *such* a mess. Recently at a dealer, the pit-crew scene in “Ford vs. Ferrari” sent the dialog to the Harmony center at a low volume, and to wide Celestials at about the same level!!! I couldn’t judge if the distance had been tweaked to sound the center sooner but no matter what the settings, it was !@#$%. (Using 50s as rear surrounds made for great vroom noises though!) There is no beam-width or virtual-speaker justification for open-air dialog to come from the ceiling.
<rant>Alas, no test disc (or stream, 21st c.) exists. Dolby FAQ spouts some pabulum about rights-holders as if they couldn’t force cross-licensing or just take snippets under fair-use — and then has the gall to say, “If you’re calibrating a new Dolby Atmos® setup, you actually don’t need a Dolby Atmos demo disc.” Nonsense. Suggestion: It’s a non-revenue project when writ small, but writ large, if B&O really wants their system to be enough of a “wow” that it sells millions, they will create a test to show how good the system (or installer) has done. Even if it’s the Danish National Opera playing cha-chas. Otherwise Floyd Toole’s Circle of Confusion will reign and nobody will know if the Beosound Theatre is any better than a Sennheiser Ambeo or Sonos Arc(+Sub), except, big whoop, one might play louder than the others. As @Sandyb is implying above if not stating so obnoxiously as I dare, will we all be wishing for a simple On/Off switch to squelch TrueImage, and another one for Atmos? Both “Off” forces 5.1 or 7.1 which are predictable and easily calibrated. </rant>
Regarding that dialog from Celestials, at least a Beosound Theatre when used stand-alone will have all its real drivers location-constrained.
Moreover one point of marketing emphasis is, as you infer, on the capability of a Theatre alone with 28s as rears
Oh duh, of course, B&O’s “model home” diagram (lounge/dining single L-shaped room) with the TV in front of the sofa and the pair of surround speakers that do double-duty as dining room stereo “ventriloquists.” Now just make it a Theatre and 28s (no front L/R) and voilà! Same as before only grander (and more “grands”).
Hopefully either here or in your blog @geoffmartin, or from your experience @Sandyb, one of you might say why the 28 were used for rear and the 18 for front? Based on the “typical” towers front (w/sub) & satellite surrounds in a home theater, it seems backwards. Is there some secret sauce in TrueImage combining the 18s as fronts with the Beosound Theatre as their woofer, and/or using 28’s woofers as multi-point room-modes-elimination method? I don’t see the reason, especially since the Theatre’s frequency response has been said (by whom?) to be “much like” a 28 — simple L/C/R timbre-matching would forestall a lot of DSP foofaraw.
The Line In/Out jack is used for an equalizer (or similar) between the 7000’s preamp section and its amplifier section. Your photo shows the factory-installed crossover plug, which you should leave alone. (If it were removed you would get no sound out your non-powered speakers.)
In your case, I would use the Tape 2 jack, just because it’s easier to put your fingers on. The usual problem is that someone gives you a Line-In RCA->DIN-8 cable rather than the Line-Out cable — just the wrong pins hooked up. For this reason I tell folks to buy a Tape-In-AND-Out cable even if you don’t need it — so you can listen to test which plugs are the inputs and use the *other* two! I bought one on amazon, ASIN# B00M0FXR8A, less than $10. Also a forum sponsor (scroll down) sells cables, and guarantees you’ll get the correct one if you order just Tape->Line-Out!
Feature request: Add custom logic to attachment creation when the usual picture suffixes are used for attachment files, so that it asks (approx.), “Can I insert this into your message as a picture?”. Thus posters can say “yes” allow the pictures to be visible to anyone, or “no” to keep the pix invisible to folks not logged in. Forum websites that don’t allow visitors to see pictures are anathema — make this one at least *offer* to prevent this, because most folks won’t understand the difference. See the most recent thread where the poster almost certainly intended for people to view the TV on offer but mistakenly (I believe) attached the pictures as files rather than inserting them: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/i-want-to-give-away-a-beovision-5-fully-operational/
