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Will I be able to stream from the Sonos app directly to Beolab 18/19
No.
or do I need some Sonos hardware for the Sonos app to work
Yes.
(Note, depending on whether the B&O speaker has a line-in, you could use the Sonos “Port” as a front-end so their app would work, yet still have the beauty & sound of B&O. Ask @SandyB, maybe also you could be satisfied with Roon as your front-end which will cross music services — just not the two you named! — and AirPlay the results to certain B&O speakers.)
The 20% off with code FLASHSALE is back for USA & Canada thru January 31, on Level and Balance in all variants. For the Balance, that brings it back to its release price in 2020 (which was USD2250(~CAD3000)), less a few bucks: $2200/2480/2720. For the Level, prices were only raised by $100 so it feels more like an actual sale: $1280/1480.
Upgrade BeoVision 5: To bring it into HDMI Full-HD, can you confirm that an upgrade to a BeoVision 10 Full-HD is a smart choice (no need for 4K res)?
SUMMARY: A smart choice? No. Your only choice? Yes, if MasterLink is to be maintained by itself. (BeoVision 10 –>BeoVision 11 was the switch from MasterLink to NetworkLink.)
DETAILS: My BeoVision 10 has worse sound than a BeoVision 11, and that is *much* much worse than most available separates (or a BeoSound Theatre). The fan on a BV10 isn’t silent when it’s wall-mounted. There are no spare screens for BV10 repair. The sound on mine dies after an hour of use (despite the fan), until power-off. (No repairs, no PUC updates etc. because no dealers nearby & dismount/transport of that monster is fraught.)
In one respect, it’s appropriate for you: The BV 10 sound is matched to your BeoLab 6000s. I tried mine as center channel with BeoLab 18s (“Speakers 3”) and it’s just awful. Turning off the TV sound (“Speakers 2”) and sitting in the center was the only acceptable solution. It’s my office TV too, so I just left it by itself as “utility grade” and took the BeoLabs elsewhere. You do label that room as “Home Cinema”. If so, your upgrade should be more grand (if you can afford it after buying a house). Or, get a BV10 for cheap and be prepared at some point to start trashing or giving away, and replacing what is now 10-, 20-, even 30-year-old equipment.
P.S. Despite my disheartened tone, I do love your lighted BeoLab 6000 plinths, and understand the appeal of customized glass bookcase panels for BeoSound 3200 and the fully linked whole-house speakers. Beolab 18s or maybe 28s would look just as good there if you ever do a “real” upgrade. But so would floral arrangements! (If you copied my capitulation to office-only, and moved the cinema experience down to the living room.)
This is unlikely, but it falls squarely into the “some setting I’m not aware of” category…
If your Wi-Fi network is using 5GHz rather than (or in addition to) 2.4GHz, make sure to configure it to select an individual channel, rather than allowing it to auto-scan for the quietest. WiSA uses the so-called “DFS” no-license-required channels, which include local airport radars among other things; therefore it has “scan and back-off” safety feature. Usually this works OK because WiSA pre-selects a secondary channel to shift to in case it hears someone else on its current channel. Might there be bugs in B&O’s implementataion? Maybe, but more likely is a router suddenly changing its own channel if it, too, is using the DFS channels — thus trampling on whatever WiSA had chosen as back-up. So pick an individual channel, like 36, 40, 44, 48, 149, 153, 157, or 161 (i.e. skipping over the DFS channels) for your router’s 5GHz. (Multiply by the number of neighbors using the same auto-select strategy, or super-wide bandwidth channels inside the DFS range.)
In the old forum, @riverstyx claimed “yes”:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/22895/189582.aspx#189582
When you say digital output i believe the beosound 9000 only outputs in analogue via the following connectors:
No, AES/EBU also, i.e. SPDIF via coax. The O.P. was right to suspect oddness since that connector should be outputting whenever the CD data is reading (but not the tuner, of course). Viz:
I have a non-B&O setup with similar problems.
Summary: Switch back to 5GHz and move the router around as necessary to get acceptable signal despite its lower range. Turn off “airtime fairness” and select a single channel, not “auto”.
Details: (Pardon the long-winded-ness.) You want to choose 5GHz if you can, because more non-overlapping channels are available. But you get stuck using 2.4GHz because the 5GHz doesn’t reach as far. But on 2.4 you should only use channels 1, 6, & 11 — yet there’s always some moron neighbor who picks channel 3 (for example) and ruins it for 2 other people. So you look at the signal strength bars (actually looking at the RSSI & S/N is best) using your computer, to decide which channel to program your router to use. On 2.4GHz you do *not* want your router to be set to auto-select channels — do your own research, pick one, and stick with it. (On 5GHz, it’s less problematic because there are more channels and one might actually be quiet, whereas doing your own research takes a while, switching back and forth and comparing RSSI & S/N.) OK, then there are two “gotchas”: one is neighbors (or you, heaven forbid) still running gadgets using 802.11b — which the modern signalling methods have to back off and make time for. This can make a poorly buffered or bad IP stack implementation lose the connection, and re-establishing the connection takes a bit more time than merely asking for a retransmission of a packet that got “hit” by someone else. It’s worse because *anybody’s* router on that same channel with their 802.11b device wastes the airwaves, not just their own router has to back-off. The other thing is to turn off your router’s “airtime fairness” setting. For example, that’s a well-known failure on Sonos systems with Asus routers; maybe not B&O but why chance it if you’re having problems. So if at all possible, choose 5GHz. Except there’s WiSA, just another reason to pick a channel and hard-set your router to use it rather than dynamically selecting based on the *current* channel availability, if you know you’ll be using WiSA speaker connections — I forget which channels it uses but there’s a list somewhere: just avoid them by hard-setting a channel number in the router. Finally, mesh setups with auto-handoff complicate this, when a bag of water (you!) blocks the signal from one access point and it hands off the (stationary but nevertheless!) device to one of the access points that has a better signal — at the moment. More delays, and if the buffering and IP stack were perfect then it wouldn’t be a problem, but B&O surely just took whatever reference implementation was proffered by the vendor of the Wi-Fi chipset. No huge knock, but you know they aren’t going to fix it because it isn’t their forte. Well, OK, they can change the buffering but they can’t fix the wireless. So it’s up to you to provide the ideal conditions for your device.
The Winter Park, FL store finally put a message on their voice mail. “Still under construction. Hoping to open in January.” [Edit: updated to “mid-February”][Edit: updated to “March”][Edit: updated to “‘Soft open’ planned March 20”]
Vybe Systems is behind the store. (www.vybe.ai , formerly a design-only consultancy.) They told the Chamber of Commerce, “Our space will be a Bang & Olufsen retail space AND a showroom, showcasing Bang & Olufsen products as well as other high-end smart home products for local homeowners/builders/designers/custom integrators.”
Off-topic I know, but re: above: Detail: Done with RFID tags in the sleeves and a reader behind the paneling.
Missing Detail: @beojeff, who’s the integrator? Of did you DIY the reader mount too?
I said to BeoBoston what would be *truly* magical would be if there were a camera on the opposite wall (it’s pretty tight quarters right there at the entrance) matching the covers with discogs data. Or a shopping cart scanner on the back for UPC codes (you know, for all that modern stuffe). ¡¡¡Dream on!!!
[Which may need to be typed into primitive search boxes as “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation”.]
Blunt instrument method: Configure your router to block its internet access without blocking its local network access. No news = no pop-ups. Unless, like the Google microphone-off announcement, it pops up messages telling you it can’t contact the mothership? [Edit: Ah, and of course you must be using an AppleTV or similar to get streaming content so it doesn’t matter that your LG Apps don’t connect.]
Bleagh. Define “lucky”. B&O threw away at least a half-dozen decent dealers a few years back. Here is a corrected map:
Write this post again when they *actually* open a store — or when any of those “custom integration partners” deign to talk to a retail customer. THAT is when the map can change.
- I believe so, yes.
- Previously answered, see above.
But if not the board’s sponsor’s product (why not, it’s even reasonably priced!?) then perhaps Almando Powerlink-Switch or MultiPlay boxes, though they are probably more than you need.
No, that’s part of the point of PowerLink: There is no audio-presence circuit required, thus no leading low-level passages are missed. (An audio-presence circuit may also be included separately, which is how the RCA line-ins turn on the speaker — eventually…)
Power is applied to the pin continuously so long as the speaker is to remain powered up. Calling it a “trigger” muddies the waters; it isn’t. I.e. there is no latching of the power/mute relay, the pin must be on 100% of the time.
Note on some old B&O equipment the Power pin is distinct from the Mute pin, so that a speaker which requires time to turn on its amp can get a power signal first, then the mute signal closes the relay (before the audio is sent).
That “tonearm” (cartridge-slider, actually) is reminiscent of the Revox B790. Only thing missing from the B790 was a central spindle clamping mechanism so it could be wall-mounted. Because the cartridge carrier had to constantly adjust itself, it could also register hits and spring the cartridge up and out of harm’s way. So one way to stop playing mid-record was simply to grab the arm and rotate it 90 degrees, no fuss no planning, just grab it and crank. If you’ve never seen one, check https://stereonomono.blogspot.com/2011/12/revox-b-790.html .
Not my installation, but Michael Jordan’s house is up for sale (again). It’s stuck in the late 1990s — which I personally like, but makes for a tough sell at USD 15 million, 30 miles north of Chicago. Beolab 1’s in both the living room and the guest house, plus 4000’s (not shown) as rear speakers in the guest house. No BeoVisions, rather NEC monitors from back in the day:
Alas, no B&O in the in the basketball court…
No, the point is not to get the *phone* to send or receive 455kHz IR codes, it’s to get that unknown-brand IR controller to do so. Tuya is a cloud platform service provider. They make developing “smart” hardware easier (supposedly). Contact the purveyor of that IR box, and @Guy’s answer is what you need to ask them.
Or, if you’re just an end-user looking to control your system, try a (used, NLA) Logitech Harmony hub: Though it cannot receive 455kHz codes, it *can* transmit them, and has a library of pre-programmed buttons for the B&O IR devices. (Although Logitech no longer sells them, they still maintain the back-end computer allowing you to add/delete devices from your hub.)
Ah, I see. But what prevents B&O from running its own pre-roll ads, requiring a subscription, or “curating” and entirely preventing other URLs from working? They are planning to monetize themselves, just you wait & see… That flurry of revenue-generation will not be so lackluster!
[You have more experience than most, so please pardon me if this is too baby-step and of course you have already looked…] Usually scratching is from one of 3 sources: deteriorated foam/rubber surround, allowing the motor assembly to fall lopsided, or debris attracted into the gap (those darn magnets), or glue failing which holds the magnets to the rest of the structure and they shift/pull themselves all misaligned (those darn magnets!-). Sounds goofy, but try laying the speaker on its back: improvement==>rotted surround. All 3 of these causes can be fixed. Used drivers from other speakers will eventually get the same faults with age.
I would also add, that those with TuneIn, will have a tuneIn account.
Not necessarily. Simple counter-example: take a BeoSound 1 out of the box, config it to Wi-Fi, and tap its top. With no other B&O sources to join, it plays RBB-Kultur from TuneIn. (No idea what it does post-update.)
The whole thing seems a little half-baked and low-energy from B&O. My feeling is it is all too much trouble.
Not if you wish to avoid TuneIn’s latest monetization method, namely playing ads themselves *before* connecting to the radio station (to whom they also supply custom ads in some kind of ad-swap scheme among their providers).
