trackbeo
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Late to answer you, but technical info: Wall bracket is available for 55″ and 65″ only. Distance from wall to front of wings is 13.1 cm, distance to front of soundbar is 19.2 cm. One thing not shown in the technical drawings is that the bracket lines up with the wings, but at the bottom edge, the rear panel hangs down slightly lower than the front panel, leading to a sort of “chamfered edge” effect, very nice detail.
All dimensions are available from: https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/us/soundbars/beosound-theatre and scroll down; click on “Product Sheet Download”. (Your dimension is on pages 6 & 7.)
(Note: that’s assuming you are not in the USA, which never received the DECT version.)
3.5mm plug half-pulled-out / not fully inserted into jack on AirPort Express?
Despite the fact that cables don’t die and active devices do, cable failure of some kind is nevertheless more likely than the Beosound 9000 Aux input going bad. But that’s easy to test, by unplugging the BS9000 DIN end of the adapter cable, and if there’s still a hum on Aux.In, it’s likely the BS9000 itself.
If the AirPort Express is gen.1 (hard plug to wall), possibly it’s dying — that power supply doesn’t last forever. But usually other stuff happens instead/also, like its Wi-Fi range gets much smaller. If the AirPort Express is gen.2 (separate line cord), it’s too soon to be dying, which is why I suspect the cable (or its connectors). If it is the culprit, maybe replace it with a brand-new Wiim Mini rather than trying to source an old, used AirPort Express on eBay.
Really? I thought it just listened to the output and calculated a boost as a percentage of the input, i.e. you could be driving cardboard (or flax!) with tubes, for all the DSP algorithm cared. This is how Dirac Live can work inside a MiniDSP DDRC-24 (e.g.): Dirac knows nothing about the speakers or the amp, only what it hears from its microphone input when it sends out a known signal sweep.
And “speaker elements” == “drivers” colloquially so yes, s/he is indeed hooking up the inexpensive Symfonisk amp to the 4000’s drivers and bypassing or removing the electronics. BeoWorld description claims 35 watt x 2 (ICEpower version mk.2), and supposedly the amplifier on the Symfonisk speaker is the TI TPA3116D2, a two channels x 30 watts per — so it could work OK unless you crank the volume up, maybe? [Edit: the DSP will take some headroom too.]
P.S. @carljh, kindly use your first sale to buy a gold membership here, in order to post to sell stuff.
For the record, that is not how the Level volume control works
Thanks! I’ll play with mine again next week. So just “for the record”, could you *please* comment on how the Beosound 1’s top button really works? (2.gen, no GVA so just the single center) You can see/read all the speculation I went through…
Yes, the BS1’s rotary volume knob is easier to use than the Level’s touch control, where you can miss and “set-to-here” the volume rather than increment or decrement the volume at the edges. (Particularly annoying when you get max-volume instead of +1!) Likewise picking up the unit to move it outside doesn’t upset a BS1 but the Level ‘s controls are close to the handle so sometimes it Play/Pauses. On the other hand, children might ruin the tweeter of a BS1 while transporting it (mostly but not guaranteed by the neck, because it’s so heavy) — which will not happen with a Level.
But the Play/Pause button on the BS1 is the most finicky I have *ever* used: Press it just long enough, and just hard enough, or sometimes it does nothing. It’s so finicky, I still don’t really know for sure if it’s a capacitance detector switch, because of course the track-forward and track-back *must* be. But “hard enough” seems to indicate a physical switch in place of, or in addition to, a detector circuit. Licking your finger or switching to a thumb in place of forefinger don’t seem to differ, thus my decision that there’s a button buried in there somewhere. Or maybe not, rather some deformation of the plastic top is necessary to approach the antenna of the detector? Or is it some battery thing because Pause works more often than Play? I dunno, but it’s an annoyance and not as surefire as a BeoCenter 9500. (In the old forums someone else agreed, so it’s not my one-off.)
Both of them have acceptable sound but neither is amazing. Obviously there’s a bit of stereo in the Level, but if you’re always going to put it in the unused rear corner of a kitchen counter, even if it’s flat against one of the walls and not spanning the corner diagonally, you aren’t really getting much. I think your use case should depend on the room. If you hate the thought of the BS1 getting splashed with foodstuffs, get the Level and a wall hanger, and you can unhook it, flat, to party. Of course that loses the stereo effect entirely (not documented but it’s what I hear) because on-wall doesn’t have left/right and out flat is trying to broadcast a uniform sound field. Personal opinion: Use the Level against a side wall on a bathroom counter where the location of the user is constrained (by the sink & the mirror), and use a BS1 in the kitchen counter corner.
If you plan to move either one around, even rarely, buy the charging stand for the BS1, or the wall hanger for the Level. Particularly the BS1 because that AC cord is a bear to plug and unplug. The Level’s of course is easy. If you plan to do anything but AirPlay and Bluetooth, well, get the Level because it has line-in and Mozart platform support. Not playing from a DLNA server, which the BS1 still does, matters less to most folks.
Though they do sound different, since neither of them sounds dramatically better, don’t feel bad about letting looks dictate your choice! Personally I prefer the BS1 conic solid, with mysteriously hidden drivers. Versus the Level looks like an original 2001 BS1: a basic slab boombox. Everybody raves about its wood front, but who wants to see the drivers thru the slots, and veneer on plastic is just so declassé, prefer the cloth to hide the works. But my Final Answer: listen for yourself, no better advice than that. Sorry to be so long-winded, but you asked…
<grenade> Gee, what a soft pitch. He even tried to steer the comments section away from the equipment per se:
“… and that is our review. Question of the day: Tell us your story… Yeah… A9 is gonna be the A9… If you want more information, links are always gonna be in the description. Share your story — your hi-fi story. Let’s make
that what the comments are about.”What?!?!? Why? Because the first comment would be, “Wait, that’s FOUR [expletive] THOUSAND Dollars for a single-point-stereo streaming speaker!” </grenade>
Disclosure, I admit I spent $2660 to get an A9 gen.4, mostly because it looks cool & handily replaces stereo-paired Apple HomePod’s that just can’t stay in sync and play nonstop given typical Wi-Fi disturbances vs. the AirPlay2 streaming design. But $4000 just because “we can work from our porch now” seems lame for a YouTube channel that’s ostensibly about audio. Though it does Put Paid To anybody who claims their BeoSound 1 or Level sound like much out-of-doors, more than a meter or 2 away.
the spliter is 100% mechanical , no power, so i think it will be ok.
Probably, but I would still look inside before using it: There are all kinds of crazy interlocking-pushbutton switch combinations, e.g. 6PDT w/ DPDT on the other half! Good you’re considering the oneremote.dk auto unit, much nicer than manual.
someone know the bosscom ?
Search the “ARCHIVED FORUM — March 2012 to February 2022” for “bosscom”, you’ll see.
P.S. Still hoping you’ll post what your use case is for 2xBeoSound 9000. (Now that most folks treat playing a single CD as “an event”, like putting on a single record.) Heh, hacking the sled software so both units alternated shuffle play, that would be cool!! 🙂
P.S. A manual switch for such sleek equipment seems rather declassé. Given the one you proposed, I guess an automatic Almando Multiplay Stereo is way too expensive? Perhaps using one of the 9000s as the Aux-input to the other one might work… On the other hand, who really needs a 12-CD changer nowadays? By all means tell everyone what kind of cool installation you intend to do! (Or as they say on the automotive forums, “If you don’t post pix, it didn’t happen.”:-)
Brand name & model # of the A/B switch? And/or a photo of the interior? If it contains a physical 8-Pole Double-Throw switch, it might work. But if inside is a 100BaseT network multi-port router on a chip, with a single pin to that switch, controlling the output of all the signals, it definitely won’t work.
Personally, I would bet against it connecting all 8 pins directly to all 8 other. But a customer photo inside the (more rugged-looking, $17 instead of $6) CablesOnline.com model # SB-034 physical switch looks OK:
In theory the box will subject the audio signal to no shielding by ground thru routing the wires, but for short runs and where only audio signals are inside a metal box, you should be OK. The only thing you need to make sure is that your box, like the one shown above, actually switches all the wires and doesn’t take any shortcuts like connecting a bunch of them together, e.g. “because only 4 are used in 10BaseT”. Yes, in theory you only need 4 wires for Powerlink mk.1, but do you know which are which? Don’t chance it. Also I don’t like the potential shorting of sliders inside a multi-pole switch, so I would advise powering down both BS9000s (and thus the BL8000s are also told to power down) before switching and powering up only one of the BS9000. In the unlikely event you get “the usual hum troubles and noise burst each time the volume button is pressed”, switch to Mk.3 Powerlink cables from the box to your BS9000s.
No way on a NAS too? I have a QNAP model with the latest QTS.
So in theory you would use Container Station to create yourself a virtual machine (if you have a QNAP powerful enough to support that) and install HASS onto it. A Google search will point you to a YouTube video, showing such an install. (N.B. I do not own a QNAP. On a Synology NAS one would launch Docker and install HASS into that.)
Sorry, you’re correct: SHIFT-ABC is the same as MENU (either activates the “Programming” touch control on the 9500).
So on the N.American Mk2 do both ABC and >> send the same command?
Nope, at least not to a BeoCenter 9500: >> fast-forwards, and ABC does nothing. But SHIFT-ABC seems to do the same thing as the “Programming” touch control. [Edit: ABC does send something. because the dot on a BeoMaster 7000 blinks.]
P.S. That “Transcriptor Sweep Arm” was a fancy substitute for the old Watts “Dust Bug”. Supposedly one could hear the front nylon bristles of a Dust Bug scraping away (so the following velvet roller could pick up the dislodged crud better) — thru the stylus & cartridge!
Differences, plural. “ABC” is just some iconographer’s method of signifying text. But also Euro “SAT” got turned into N.A. “MENU”.
There’s no substitute for listening yourself! At a dealer (Hallandale race track, Florida) the 20s sounded more “balanced”, but less “precise”, pardon the silly audiophile terms. If it’s your only set, or you listen to douf-douf, maybe get the 20s. Otherwise, add the 19, because your 18s are way more handsome than those little nuns. Yes, beauty matters, because none of the speakers at the dealership (including 5s at that time), reproduced, e.g. the timbre of a trombone or a brass ensemble better than what I already had! (I did succumb and buy a set of 18s later, at/for another location.)
From failing memory, there were two types. And the Beovision 11 used the second type. They can’t be swapped, just use stretch knit fabric to re-cover your original grille in the new color. P.S. Make sure the grille is firmly attached before letting go — I ripped one fabric corner open by having it fall off, onto the floor. [Edit: Maybe try to buy an old one? One such part # is 1605213, B&O calls that ‘BeoVision 10-46 Front Cover Silver'”]
After it is repaired, @beowillie suggested using the pins on the USB connector to drive a tiny heat sink fan internally — at half-voltage so it doesn’t make noise — and “strategically placing” it inside the case. He rather hand-waved verbally on the BeoTalk podcast as to where he shoved it, but apparently with the case open this was obvious?
60,000 Euros. That’s what I think. A hefty price increase of the 72-23 over the 72-22, not just from the 18s–>28s?
Steve, does your cable have ginger-colored cloth braided jacket?!?!
But @Die_Bogener (or the picture hosting service) does upload them here in a moderately high resolution: The example above is actually 1024 × 768 pixels.
Rather than clicking on the picture, control+click (or right-click) on it. Then, from the pop-up menu, do NOT choose a menu item starting with “Open Link in…”, but DO choose “Open image in…” menu item. (Approximate wording, depending on your browser.) Then you will see the image that was uploaded, rather than an image the website down-sized to fit in the running text width. Once you have a new window or tab with that image in it, it will be larger but maybe still reduced by your browser to fit — but then you should be able to click on it to see the full resolution, or save the file if your browser is unwilling to enlarge. Again, pic above should end up 1024 x 768.
Suggestion: If the manuals section had a list that was browse-able by any registered user, one could see whether a particular manual was available — if one paid for a Gold upgrade! (Not visible to un-logged-in users (or spiders), but directory listable to all Bronze&Silver.) It would be free advertising of the benefit Gold Membership brings! (N.B. I just resorted to scanning a (tiny:-) manual, because I couldn’t tell a newbie to upgrade and download it, with any certainty that it was even available.)
