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No.
But at least Beolink 1000 are modestly- (EU) to moderately- (USA) priced; you don’t need to buy a full-blown MCP 5500.
Yes, that is the way speaker-level subwoofers are designed to work. However, do not splice your speaker wires into an RCA plug: that could be incorrectly plugged into a line-level input on a sub, which would be very bad (because speaker level is several times the voltage of line level). Obviously you need a sub with both speaker-level inputs & outputs as well as the more common (in 21st c.) line-level inputs.
If you find an old passive subwoofer, it, too, gets spliced into the speaker cables between the amplifier and the speakers. But such an old subwoofer might lower the combined speaker impedance beyond what the 4500’s amp can handle. Therefore, if buying, purchase a modern powered subwoofer, which usually has a very high impedance on its speaker inputs, making it “invisible” to the amplifier. Normally, one wouldn’t even mention this, but you said you were driving two pair of speakers, thus might be nearing the 4500’s amp power limit? Additional reading: https://nucoustics.com/blog/connect-subwoofer-to-speaker-level-outputs/ or https://hometheateracademy.com/connect-a-subwoofer-to-speaker-level-outputs/ .
Yes, there really *are* 3 full-package IR receiver devices on PCB14, not just the 1 lens box by the side IR window: 2 are centered on the back side of the board. This means that masking the IR receiver needs more tape or foil, and may not be practical. They are under the waning-moon plastic bubble in the half-circle below the bottom CD position. Covering that plastic is certainly possible, but leakage around the edge looks pretty likely. (You can see them in Kose Trading’s disassembly video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9Bd63-i_Gw , at about 35:00. Service manual aaargh: It isn’t called “IR Window”, just “Window”! Part number is 9025.)
Don’t think so: the IR safety feature has its own receiver on PCB28, not PCB14. Likewise the IR Receiver for the “Tacho Clamper” on PCB31 (not shown?!). Key to me: There is only one “IR Window” listed, part number 9042. It’s shown in the blow-out diagram disembodied, but is shaped as you describe, a right-angle piece of plastic.
I think you have found the receiver and it’s just super-sensitive (x3). Maybe try the “ever-creeping black plastic garbage bag”, starting with the whole damn unit covered up? I would be surprised if the finger-protection IR protrusions were somehow prism-ing the remote signal inside the chassis and that was enough to trigger the multiple IR receivers way down on PCB14, but in theory it’s possible, maybe? Or maybe there is leakage thru the front panel elsewhere? Anyway, the garbage bag will (hopefully!) tell you how far down.
Excellent guess! But don’t wait for some expert answer, just try it! (:-) (…and report back here to aid future searchers, of course…:-)
(As a gold member with access to the service manual, you probably already found out that there are 3 IR receiver chips on the “PCB 14” board, so there could be 2 additional secret receiving spots. But probably not, likely just improving coverage there at the tip of a board hidden inside the case.)
I thought there was an option to get a non-Google BS1,
Correct, at least for the 2.gen @ebnrob is considering, GVA and non-GVA were both sold. (Only 1 button on the non-GVA.)
A few designs in the late-middle to -end of LG’s design competition article show possible uses:
In the 1990s Timex sold an LCD travel alarm that had its silver reflective backing separated from the display, to be tipped down behind as an easel. It only really worked if there was a painted wall behind it when viewed from the bedside. (Of course I bought the silver version, even though it wasn’t actual aluminum; the logo was more discreet than later editions too!-)
“Van der Valk” television series (remake), season 3, episode 3 (2 July 2023): Part of the episode is a paralyzed invalid on life support, who supposedly may be able to hear — so of course she must have…
A Beosound 9000 and a CD holder star in this scene, set in a classic VHNWI Amsterdam canal house (alongside their co-star actor Darrell D’Silva):
It turns out that the CD holder is lighted! (oh, and actor Marc Warren too):
We see one Beolab 8000 hiding behind the hospital equipment for the invalid (actress Esra Abdioglu):
And the BS9000 gets its own panning action shot!
Third-party confirmation for Beosound 2 (mk.1): The PDF instructions above and its embedded links to firmware, were reported to successfully resurrect a Beosound 2 mk.1 which had lost its S/N and Type, on Beotalk podcast #270.
@mikipedia reported the symptoms of the failure were “everything worked except the App,” i.e. the internal webserver, Airplay response, Bluetooth playback, and connection to Wi-Fi, all functioned as originally designed, just the App could not “see” the unit to add it. The failure occurred after the unit was factory-reset because it would be newly added to an account & a Wi-Fi network.
@Beowillie reported being unable to find this info doing searches in BeoWise. He speculated that the loss of serial number, which does not happen often, but apparently often enough to warrant the repair notes, was the result of a CMOS NVRAM battery discharging after the unit being left unplugged. (Apparently in @mikipedia’s case that was ~2 years?) But he could not account for such cause, because battery failure should have affected many, many units, including those which may have languished on the shelf at dealerships before sale.
Sometimes I miss @Peterpan. (@Didork’s pic is from a Y splitter RCA cable, in case you couldn’t tell.) You don’t need double outputs, do you? Buy 3 of single RCA-male to RCA-male cables: Left single cable goes into the L RCA of the left speaker, right single cable to the R jack of the other speaker (and sub RCA to the sub). 17’s don’t daisy-chain analog RCA input, and each speaker doesn’t need both right and left like Powerlink would be. (Open the diagram in step 4 of https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360054694571-Beolab-17-first-time-setup in its own window to get full-size. That’s the reason the second RCA line is dotted, you choose one or the other jack. I guess you have to make the L/R switch match too.)
I noticed it’s not a twin RCA output on the Node.
?? Looks like all (3) RCA output on the Node X:
The best solution to your problem? Wires.
Sorry to be so didactic. But you are about to pay an electrician to pull high-voltage AC wires to the hidden floor outlet or whatever, just to power your self-amplified speakers. OK, ask them to pull a low voltage cable (Powerlink multi-conductor) to the same place! Very low additional cost. Or you’re about to run a power cord from your speakers to a convenient wall box. Run the Powerlink cable using well-known, time-honored methods for traversing the perimeter of a room, to the same spot, on the floor underneath the AC wall box, and add a cable sheath to hold both, running from the wall to your speaker.
(This advice is just saving you the trouble of posting in another couple months, “My WiSA connection keeps acting up and my speakers are offline”…:-)
Wild guess, but something to try: Search for the Beoplay A6 heat sink reattachment repair. Same vintage era, same inexpensive price probably means a single-chip amp per channel.
B&O may not break even on their strategy, but a global credit crunch won’t slow VHNWI’s from buying some little bit of kit. The LVMH’ing of B&O follows a well-trod path. Here in the USA even Disney, the epitome of mass-affluent marketing, is now selling upscale multi-thousand-dollar concierge theme park services. You in the UK are used to a similar USA-HNWI-ism, “concierge M.D.s” just to avoid the National Health waits. It’s a sound strategy per se, but whether it will work for audio gear and whether B&O executes it well, are the questions.
Having boxes of B&O cables means you have done this before; good! But if your boxes leave you empty-handed, as a done-this-before oldster, you might not be familiar with the modern method of connecting MasterLink: buy a pair of cheap ML male –>RJ45 female adapters and run an Ethernet cable between them (preferably shielded) — much easier to find custom lengths than buying a genuine ML cable. Cheaper than the PowerLink auto-switch boxes, too!
Yup. Don’t do that. Splitter cables are intended to have one driving device (BV *or* BS9000) and two speakers. A switch box — common manufacturers are Almando and OneRemote.dk — will use either the presence of the Powerlink “Power” pin or the audio signal to switch your speakers back and forth. (There is a technical answer that I just don’t remember about how line output impedance of the source and RCA line input impedance of the speaker[‘s built-in amplifier] are supposed to relate, and what happens if you put another source on that Y in parallel with the speaker, thus the original source “sees” the wrong impedance, not just a speaker or two.)
P.S. Don’t throw away that splitter cable — you’ll need it because the Powerlink switch boxes only have a single DIN-8 jack output!
P.P.S. The true B&O-heads here will tell you that you ought to be running a MasterLink cable between those two sources, for an integrated setup. One remote, speakers connected to one device, automated source switching thru it, routing the IR remote commands — totally B&O-whole-house-cool! But the switch boxes work with *any* two sources and don’t require learning anything about B&O systems’ “Option” settings. Given that you started with a simple Y cable, I suggested the easier-to-understand method. But it is sub-optimal if you could get MasterLink configured instead: both your BS9000 and BV9 support it!
Also notice the existing surrounds were made up of two half-circles pasted together — must not have had the correct diameter on hand. You can see the seams at 9:00 and 3:00. And it looks like two (2!) repair efforts were made, given different colors of dried glue.
So I hope somebody can tell you if the part number substitution buying whole drivers is OK. Best choice given that mess. But if not, read on…
[Edit: Before wasting time on foam, double-check with an ohmmeter that the speakers are about the same resistance. A reading of infinity (open, split wire) or of zero (short, fused wire) is obviously bad, and not worth wasting more time on. Nobody mentioned this prior because it’s really unlikely, but given that photo, anything is possible!]
As to the solvents, what you use will depend on how crummy the glue from previous attempts turns out to be. First try up to 91% isopropyl alcohol, and a long fingernail is the finest tool you have or will need. Failing that, a stronger solvent, like “denatured alcohol” or (USA) Goof-Off™, don’t get the stuff on your skin — you should probably use the *back* edge of an X-Acto knife straight blade (actually a triangle). The blade would cut the speaker cone, but the squared-off rear usually catches the glue without ripping into the driver.
If the previous attempt was particularly horrible, the driver might be ruined anyway. Once you remove the old foam, examine the remaining, probably now jagged, edge versus the overlap of the new foam. Also follow the instructions with the re-foam kits to press/piston in&out to make sure the driver coil isn’t rubbing against the magnet or frame before you waste time gluing. Not sure why being coy about where to order parts from Holland, but here in the USA: https://www.simplyspeakers.com/bang-olufsen-speaker-repair-foam-edge-kits.html (International shipping might be expensive, but the basic parts are cheap.)
Nice, thank you! *If* you were willing to take the extra effort, a “driver count” column for each driver size would be helpful for some future readers, even though it doesn’t relate to your initial question. (E.g. the knowledge that Level is a stereo pair, or “how could BL18 possibly sound any good with just a 4-inch woofer” would be answered by your spreadsheet too.) Again thanks.
Can anyone provide an explanation for how the “beam width control” actually controls the beam width on the Beolab8?I understand … … … It is not clear to me how B&O would accomplish this with a seemingly standard 3-way configuration.
I’m pretty sure narrow vs. wide, using only a single Beolab 8 (as shown on the website animation) can only be done by screwing around with the original signal itself, probably changing the phase and summing with the original? Maaaaybe there’s something that can also be done by playing two of the 3 drivers with the same or modified signal in their crossover frequency range to interfere? But a better result — and certainly the “follow-the-phone” feature — would require two speakers, with interference between the two, as you understand. For those who do not, please see:
Just get the RCA-to-DIN cable and plug into the RCA connectors on the turntable. Analog-analog-analog. The switch mentioned above lets you use it with either a Phono input or an Aux input, i.e. it has a built-in, switchable, pre-amp/RIAA. Yes, the turntable does have a USB connector, for its built-in analog-to-digital converter! You would use that to digitise your records, when connected to a computer. But when connecting to the 9500? You would need a DAC to convert that USB *back* to analog! Oh, and the cables mentioned too! Uhh,… No.
