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“So, I guess, where do the Beolab 18s fit into the equation? Can they connect wirelessly to the Sonos through a Sonos Port connected to a Beoconnect Core?”
Nope, for a Sonos reason: When the sound bar transmits audio to “its own paired” speakers (e.g. Sonos Sub), it does so via a proprietary 5GHz signal direct to them, so all is in sync. But transmitting to the rest of the house is done with a pretty large delay, thru their regular multi-room protocol. Thus the Port (or any other Sonos speakers not dedicated to their soundbar, which, by the way, a Port *cannot* be) would play way behind the TV sound.
Maybe try a B&O Transmitter 1 with a direct connection to the TV? I have no knowledge, whether the HDMI w/Sonos soundbar can also allow, say, headphone listening thru an analog connector. Pretty sure HDMI e-ARC prevents the use of TOSlink optical out inside the TV itself, but ask an expert instead of me. There still may be sync problems even if this works, because the Sonos soundbar still has *some* bit of delay which a different output direct to the 18s might not have. But that at least is worth asking the dealer of {TV&Sonos&B&O}.
@Sandyb, Is there some way to get the “tap the top of your Beosound 1[2][A9] to start/re-start playback” with Roon? I.e. can one make a queue (own music) or playlist (Tidal) that gets auto-continued by the output device rather than by the Roon Controller? That’s principally what I use the BeocrApp for.
In the Sonos app, the Settings tab, tap System.
Select the room with your Port, then tap Line-Out Levels and choose “Variable” instead of “Fixed” or “Pass-Thru” (you wish, be serious).Hmm, a great silence here, not a good sign for your app. And claiming to have reverse engineered — what, exactly? — since B&O have *published* their control spec, seems silly. BUT that said, I *WOULD* pay for a replacement (one-time fee only, I never buy subscription apps). I assume such an app would be analogous to how “Sonopad” works versus the Sonos App: playback control plus more features, using the published spec, and leaving the adding-device / sound settings / registering / account /updates to the native manufacturer app.
A market has been created for you, by B&O themselves: Their playback interface in the new BeoApp on iOS sucks the big one. Can’t drag time slider, screen wastage for “columns” of products showing multi-room status, stealing artwork space and the godawful up-next queue, a tiny little “column” that expands into, well, another tiny little column when you click the icon, the lag in the display, etc. etc. etc. for a crappy UI — plus all the bugs people have been reporting. Who dreams up this garbage?!?!
Anyway, I wish others were more forthcoming to you in saying whether they would (or wouldn’t) buy a decent app replacement, but not holding my breath.
Low voltage like that is not a fire hazard.
Just make the mechanical connection good and tight. It’s the lazy person’s way to do it, but mild corrosion — enough to lower the IR signal — won’t occur for 5-10 years at the worst, by which time you will have upgraded something else. But you know they make tiny wire-nuts for such connections, or if you go high-tech, “Scotch-Lok” gel-filled compression connectors! The only “usual” rule is don’t bury any connections behind solid wall. Push them back into a box with a wall plate, or leave them open and running in the cabinet, whatever.
(If the time ever comes that you want to find the connections again and don’t know where you buried them, you use a telephone linesman’s tool called a “TDR” (Time Domain Reflectometer) to tell you how many feet down the wire your break (or in your case, messy splice) has occurred.)
Patents expired in 2019 (Euro) and 2022 (US).
It does address one of the shortcomings of the 6000s. Who knows how well, proof will be in the listening!
Novice question for the electronic experts here: Why the 100Ω resistors? Safety load to prevent shorting? Impedance matching, i.e. a dup of some 100Ω later in the amp circuit? IOW, what differentiates the amp next-door in the chassis from an amp down a few meters of cable inside the speakers? When running line-level output around the room, why would one reduce the already-low output? For that matter, I guess the same question is why you can’t hear the plugging-in of Powerlink speakers dropping the volume level to the main out speakers. Basic I’m sure, and I heard “output impedance low –> input impedance high” for line-level amps, but don’t *truly* grok else I might understand the resistors… TIA.
Just buy three (3) pairs of KEF LS60 and one (1) KEF KC92. But close your eyes when you listen. Or anytime you enter any of the three (3) rooms, for that matter.
But seriously, the answer to your actual question is at: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/vhnwi/ or any of @Sandyb’s posts on B&O’s quarterly financial reports, e.g. most recently: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/bo-releases-preliminary-q3-numbers-and-adjusts-revenue-outlook/
Likewise an old Logitech Harmony Home Hub and its iPhone/iPad app. Annoying to configure, and to press on-screen buttons, but it’s cheap (used) and full-function.
@Sandyb wrote, “I know they are ok with transitioning to a “leaner” model, but selling less and less at higher and higher prices is awfully risky.” Can you or someone give me the Econ-101 on this?
Presumably there is a breakover point where less&less&less&less becomes “awfully” risky, but at the beginning of the curve, what makes it risky at all? Ignoring any alleged marketing benefits like “scarcity breeds interest”, “rich people buy B&O”, etc. is there any inherent reason to desire, or fear, same revenue on fewer sales? The weak spot seems to be the assumption that you actually *do* continue to keep revenue the same and it doesn’t gyrate unexpectedly, but I don’t see how that’s any riskier than being in business in the first place?
Orange lights indicate the microphone *is* paused. Google wants to listen and makes it slightly obnoxious to mute. Additional note: Same behavior on A9 with GVA. See John O’Manchester’s YouTube video at 4:56. He says “…but you can put some black electrical tape to cover the 4 orange dots.” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQVzFqwRokI&t=296s
I think by “stationary” @Busoni means “not some phone or tablet”. Since the FritzBox is doing DLNA/UPnP with the external drive’s files, I can easily understand your frustration if trying to use the B&O App to play to the A9. Yes, stationary streaming devices exist, and you can see YouTube reviews by @DarkoAudio of the Eversolo DMP-A6, the FiiO R7, and maybe others. But if, as it appears, budget is an issue, I think the cheapest way is the previous-gen Apple iPad for $249, set it to AirPlay to the A9, and glue it to the table! Choosing exactly the right app to scan your DLNA server and act as a source is beyond my ken, hopefully others can help. But the Qobuz app is solid on the iPad, and using Airplay to the speaker is solid too.
Minor feature suggestion: The “Report” drop-down list needs another item: “A.I. B.S.” E.g. user “maiti” which is merely sowing the ground of reputation with inoffensive but useless LLM crap, preparatory to creating whatever harmful post in the future.
Alternate method: Since apparently you aren’t the first person who has been screwed (ha-ha:-) by the heavy-handed assembly crew, ask your dealer to send out a technician to fix this “manufacturing defect” — if the tool bends, it’s their problem the nut was over-torqued, not yours. After enough truck rolls, maybe someone will get the message if every BL18 consumer delivery has a service call for it!
Courtesy of the BeoTalk Discord:
“Needlenose pliers with pins in the ends are a commonly available tool good for this, although intended for installing or removing snap (retaining) rings. E.g. Channellock # 927. (You must also set its pins long-ish so the angle doesn’t contact the interior of the bracket, but less problematic vs. plain needlenose. There’s plenty of heft in the plier hinge to crank off most any such nut: it’s a plumbing tool, not a tiny lightweight electronics tool circlip-grabber.)”
A later note pointed out that the nose pins which come with that tool include right-angle pins which may be used from the side, because the usual snap-ring tips won’t reach over the 18’s end bolt that long. Also pointed out was that nut is completely hidden underneath a floor base, so one could just use ordinary pliers on it and nevermind the nicks and scratches. (If you’re using wall brackets I’m not sure if it’s totally invisible when installed?)
Here are the pics with those messages:
Surely there’s a B&O solution, likely starting with their old Thorens-mechanism turntable… But the non-B&O path is so well trod and easy to follow! Start by reading https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/best-stylus-cartridge-for-78rpm-records.1129373/ and its ancillary links. The non-hobbyist solution, i.e. spending a moderate amount of money to avoid spending lots of time, seems to be Audio-Technica: LP120XUSB turntable (“USB” thus digitisation included) and their VMN95SP 3-mil stylus & cartridge for 78s (add “-H” w/P-mount headshell).
Consider a Wiim Mini? Used AirPort Express (2nd gen) have been going up in price as the 1st gen have been dying — but as an Apple fan, I really like them: rock solid. But the Wiim has many more features. Belkin SoundForm gets tepid reviews. (I have never used one.)
P.S. Thread title should be changed to “Beosound Century from AirPlay 2″, which is what was asked. Going the other direction is more trouble.
Not the technical help you’re looking for, but: The Klipsch RW-100SW 10″ WiSA Subwoofer is currently a bargain ($274, vs. $580 list). In the USA, they ship free & offer 90-day return — so the cost of simply hooking one up & experimenting yourself would only be the return shipment price!
@Stephen, please be explicit about how “substantial” your discount ends up being. Thanks!
@Steph, if DLNA (UPnP) playback is your principal use, could not a BeoSound 5 Encore “fill the bill”? I guess folks complain about very large libraries taking a long time to work thru, but at least the user interface will be as you have come to know & love (& spin).Someone needs to make clear to @MrAnderson just how unacceptable his response @43:20 was, for streaming from a non-B&O website/radiostation: (1) I do not care to waste an hour with the morons they call “customer support”; (2) The Morons will filter or aggregate the data, and will sooner or later pass whatever they deem “frequently requested” to the Developers, more lossage; (3) the development team will bring it up in a meeting (more lossage) to “request our partners to add the station”.
Oh, be serious. I want to stream it. Now! Not with the “assistance” of intermediating Morons, Developers, and Third Party stream service B&O has contracted with. Doesn’t matter how much you streamline your currently-too-manual process, it’s no substitute for just-let-me-listen-to-this-URL. Preventing this, presages a future with locked-in choices dictated by B&O, and subscriptions.
