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Helli Guy, for my own reference (and hopefully for others now too) I made the below overview. I have various of these black AppleTV boxes (from 3rd gen up to 4K) and remember I was trialling (and erroring) to find the right location to put the IR emitter.
Do you think this is about right? Note that the LED status indicators are white dots that I added (and are not necessarily at the right location)
The dimensions and version numbers I took from the Apple support site.
Cheers, Johan
Dag Gertie, top. Laat je weten hoe het bevalt? Succes en prettige avond.
Groet, Johan
Nog een reden om bij Steve te bestellen – gratis instructievideo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRNExNUcrgo – vanaf 4:50.
Hij zegt daarin over de verloopstekker: “Just drop a note with your order and I will add a free adapter for you”. Hoe mooi kan het worden?
Groet, Johan
Dag lumix, de aansluitingen zijn inderdaad niet 3.5mm, maar 6.3mm phono jacks, waarvan de buitenste stereo is “AUX OUT [R]/[L/L+R]”.
Met een eenvoudige verloopstekker als deze (google “6.3mm to 3.5mm stereo plug”):
Kun je de Soundsheavenly kabel inpluggen. Volumeregeling gaat dan hetzelfde als met je hoofdtelefoon: “You can use the [VOLUME] control on this unit to adjust the output volume from the AUX OUT jacks.”
Steve van Soundsheavenly is de sponsor van deze site, het zou wel leuk zijn als je bij hem bestelt. Steve verzendt naar Nederland.
Je moet wel (aan de onderkant) de input schakelaars van de BeoLabs op ‘LINE’ zetten:
De kabels zullen de geluidskwaliteit niet beïnvloeden.
Hoop dat je zo verder kunt! Groet, Johan
I added the photographs of the wiring of a RJ45 to DIN 8pin cable to a previous post.
Dag Lumix, hoe regel je het volume van de koptelefoon op dit moment? Als je de koptelefoonuitgang gebruikt om de BeoLabs aan te sturen, zou je op dezelfde manier het volume moeten kunnen regelen.
De 6000s hebben een line-in ingang waardoor ze aan gaan als er een geluidssignaal wordt waargenomen.
Soundsheavenly heeft hier een eenvoudige oplossing voor: https://soundsheavenly.com/line-in-connection/77-243-minijack-to-beolab-line-in-using-phono-rca-sockets-one-cable-for-two-speakers.html#/5-length-5m
Laat je weten of dit is wat je bedoelt?
Groet, Johan
Hi, Michael,
Great to see you (we) are directly in touch with the people that make the stuff we love.
Hoping the NL/ML converter (BLC – aka “swiss army knife”) will get some development attention in the future, there are two things that I can think of.
I run a couple of MasterLink networks connected (and fed) through BLCs (the 4th one arrived this week :-)). The things that I would love (if possible):
- Get visibility and control of BeoSound/BeoMaster 5 on the app screen (cover art, playlist etc)
- Get the possibility to assign the AirPlay source directly to an ML IR command (as is possible with e.g ‘B&O Radio’ and ‘Optical’ (see photo).
Let me know what you think, Regards, Johan
Hi Guy,
These plugs/cables are used here in Europe (Netherlands), you can plug them in two ways, often on both ends even.
Hope this helps, regards, Johan
^ Very neat – what make/model is the little 2 port terminal box?
It is a Delock 2 Port RJ45 Cat.6A LSA
Thanks Guy! This should help anyone replicating the solution.
Some commercially available RJ45 to 8pin DIN cables seem to differ a bit nowadays from the table on the right.
The ‘Data GND’ is a separate copper strand in the cable (not a shield around the white ‘Data’ wire).
The ‘Signal GND’ wires are not braided copper shields but green (R) and brown (L) isolated wires, marked with a thin white stripe, per pair isolated with aluminium foil. The total bundle of wires is shielded with a braided shield. See below pictures:
Same logic, but with a little more elegant box (to put into the TV cabinet of my parents in law):
I got it working. The only thing to do (at least for a Passive 1656) is to get the trigger signal from the ‘speaker on/off’ (DIN pin 4) onto the ‘power on’ (DIN pin 1).
In the end I decided not to cut/solder funny cables, you never know when you will fool yourself with it later :-), so just wired a two port RJ45 terminal this way:
All that is needed are those 5 connections. I = in, O = out.
I run a Cat7 patch cable from the Connection Hub to the terminal in (I), and a PowerLink Mk2 RJ45 to 8 pin DIN cable from the terminal out (O) to the PowerLink socket of the Passive. PowerLink Mk2 is needed as it has the ‘Power On’ wire going to pin 1.
Hope it is useful to someone sometime.
Thanks Guy for your interest and support.
Regards, Johan
Hello Lee, I was very happy to see that the site came alive after the change. Thanks a lot to you and Keith. I hope you will find a good solution/buyer. BeoWorld is a rare and wonderful community.
Johan
Great stuff Guy. I will see to fabricate a cable and report back.
Many thanks! Regards, Johan
Hello Guy, thanks for thinking with me. The hub I refer to is the is the BeoPlay (S8) connection hub:
Good to hear you trust it is not in the option setting.
I now believe the trick could be in the signal the Hub provides. I reckon it puts 5V on pin 4 (for regular BeoLabs to switch on), but the Passive expects a signal on pin 1: (snip of the service manual)
Now I hope that the Passive expects the same 5V voltage for pin 1, so I can make a specific lead (RJ45 to 8pin Din) What do you think?
Regards, Johan
I also received the Beotooth 5500 (fully assembled) and am looking forward to give it a try on my BeoMaster 6500!
Regards, Johan
Hello KHX, could the problem/solution be with the ‘sync cable’?
From the Beolab 5 manual:
I hope to own a pair one day, but for now this helps in resolving,
Regards, Johan
Hello, on my 7-32 9331 it just works as described, using a normal ‘GO’ Beo4:
When seeing the above screen I press << << STOP and I get the screen here below.
Hope this helps. Johan
Hi jameswmunson, could it be that the back-up battery is dead?
Besides that, I do recall some BMs needed the STORE command to be made twice before keeping the settings. Maybe worth a try.
When the storing of the sound setting works, it will also store the volume setting at the time of storing.
Regards, Johan
Hello jacob117, not sure if it is ‘best’, but both the TV and the speakers support WiSA, right?
Regards, Johan
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