[Tignum]

Nice to see a 6500 or 7000 pizza box on the work station! One of the test tools maybe?

[Tignum]

An MCL junction box?

[Tignum]

Hoi KolfMAKER, I believe that’s three things :-)!

1. I indeed used tape on the inside and the outside, the cloth folds over the notches and covers them. I did it because I was afraid I could not cut clean enough to ensure perfect covering of the sharp edges of the frame. I did not put a lot of tension on the cloth that covers the notches and the cloth is thin enough to ensure that the notches still work. I actually think B&O welded the cloth to the frame.
2. it is just a bit of fiddling, the cloth is really strong. When you don’t push it down on the tape too hard at first, you can still peel it back off and correct. I am afraid that I was giving all my attention to the job and did not take too many pictures of it.
3. I checked, see below – it was pre-cut, enough to do two 8000s and two 6000s with.

Akustikstoff have some info on their blog, with some images of results that look very good!

B&O Beolab 8000 erstrahlt wieder in vollem Glanz

I did once read here on the forum that getting the covers to fit back 100% perfect, even when just taken off, is not an easy task. Still I think that a nice deep black reclothed fret, even when the sides and the top lid are not 100% flush, looks much better than a wrinkled, sun faded but flush mounted original.

Maybe you can make a little how to when you take on the endeavour?

Good luck, Johan

[Tignum]

Hi, this book for the turntable afficionados out there has the 4000c on the cover!

[Tignum]

Hi KolfMAKER, I posted some pictures a while ago when I fixed my BeoLab 8000s (and 6000s): https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/189/332850.aspx#332850. Unfortunately the photographs have gone (as Guy said already) but I still had them. I did use fabric from akustikstoff.com that to me is very nice material. In my view the limited stretch works much better than panty material that seems to have infinite stretch, but also can get too thin when stretched too much. I used akustikstoff’s standard black (10) fabric.

I decided to use double sided tape (HPX ultra mount tape) that is thin and very sticky to both the plastic of the fret and the cloth.

My frames were quite bad with the top flap and some of the clips on the side loose. The vertical long strips of tape on the inside of the frames I positioned deeper to make sure the working of the clips is not affected.

The flap in the top is the most fiddly part. But with a bit of patience the result will be much better than before. Hope this helps, good luck!

 

[Tignum]

Hello Matt,

Not so easy to judge from your description I think. You write that it has been reconditioned, would it not be an idea to record the noise (maybe even film the Ouverture when it happens) and ask the seller/reconditioner? I would say that if it was sold as reconditioned to you, it should be working flawlessly, and the seller should feel responsible for it.

Regards, Johan

[Tignum]

The Bot comments are so good! 🙂

Sorry I could not join the event. And what a good prizes again. Congratulations to all prize winners!

Thanks Beoworld team. I am really happy to see that the forum is up and running again.

Johan

[Tignum]

Hi Matt, welcome!

The service manual says 4×16 (for pos. 15):

and that is correct: M4 x 16mm, with a 7mm head.

I need to clean my caliper :-).

Good luck! Johan

 

[Tignum]

That BeoMaster 5000 with the rosewood sides is ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS. Lucky you!

[Tignum]

I enjoyed listening to (and watching) the

on AppleTV+

[Tignum]

Hi stotty1111, are you positive that the TV and the BeoSound are in the right option setting?

 

[Tignum]

Looks amazing against the natural stone wall. Living Colour must sound great! Nice to see you play some decent rock ? :-). Happy listening Evan!

 

[Tignum]

Hi again, here they can be bought: https://www.idav.nl/rubberen-voetjes-beolab-8000.html?id=268961159. Not cheap – 50 euros for 8.

[Tignum]

Hello styppen, they are called

and are indeed adjustable (I took one from my 8000):

But if you cannot find the real ones, maybe you can find some short, flathead M5 bolts (called thumbscrews) and stick a rubber protector on it (one like this:)

Then you will still have the possibility to adjust the stance.

Good luck! Johan

[Tignum]

VERY David Lewis. I share the BeoLab 5 dream with you. Hopefully one day my budget and BeoLab 5 prices will match too :-).

Enjoy them! (time to warn the neighbours – I believe the calibration can give quite a bit of rumble?)

Johan

[Tignum]

Hi LesleyJJ, welcome!

Are you positive the speaker is in working order? Have you heard it before?

It needs to be connected with a mains cord (to power the built in amplifiers) and a PowerLink cable (round DIN plugs with up to 8 pins) to provide the audio signals and the command to power up the speaker when you switch on the TV.

Often the mains cord comes directly from your wall socket into the BeoLab 7-1, and from the speaker a mains cord (with a fe-male and a male plug) is used to provide power to the TV. It could be that your speaker gets no power? The photograph is not so clear. Check page 6 of the manual found here: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360042003031-Beolab-7-1, and page 30 of the reference book of the BV7-32 found here: https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/TELEVISIONS/BEOVISION_7-32/beovision_7_32_mkii_iii_iv_v_7_40_mki_ii_reference_book_english.pdf

The PowerLink cable has to be plugged into one of the two sockets on the TV that are called: PowerLink Centre. The inside of the connections covers contain stickers with the names of all the sockets.

In the menu of the TV (options/sound) you will have to select BeoLab 7-1 at ‘CENTRE’ and the others to ‘NONE’.

Hope this helps, let us know. Good luck, Johan

 

[Tignum]

Het zijn zeker goede pluggen 🙂 Maak er wat moois van! Heb je alle pinouts, ik kan je het BeoLink handboek nog sturen evt? Groet, Johan

[Tignum]

If your amplifier has a specific sub out, then connect all speakers separately to your amplifier, not via the BeoLab2. You otherwise might risk that the higher frequencies are filtered out by the amp already, and they do not reach the 8000s.

Checking some webshops for cabling that is meant to connect BeoLabs to pre-outs, they all feed the (5v) trigger signal into the PowerLink cable through either 3.5mm trigger port, or a USB port. The sellers claim that the regular 12V trigger signals of such amplifiers are brought back to 5v by the cable. USB is 5V already. These cables are not cheap in my opinion!

Here my knowledge/help stops. Maybe a BeoWorld member with actual experience can help you with any other doubt. Good luck!

[Tignum]

Hello Phil and welcome,

I would say that if your amplifier is stereo (and has no specific subwoofer connection) then it is best to connect the 8000s to the PowerLink output sockets of the BeoLab2 using good PowerLink cables. This is how B&O has designed it to work: the BeoLab 2 filters out the lower frequencies and the 8000s do not have to deal with those anymore.

The BeoLab 2 then needs to be connected to the Amp with a PowerLink cable that somehow gets the trigger signal. This 5V signal will tell the BeoLabs to switch on. This is what you refer to with the ‘AUX/RCA PowerLink trigger cable’ I think.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (site sponsor) is always happy to help! I think he is back tomorrow. I would not be surprised if he will step in, correct me, and help you. Also in case your amp has a specific subwoofer connection that makes it a bit more complex.

Or find a nice BeoMaster/Sound/System with PowerLink connections :-)?

Best of luck, Johan

[Tignum]

Gezien. Komen eraan. Succes!

[Author]

Posts