solderon29
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My memory is a bit hazy on this now,as I only ever saw a couple of them
It did indeed extend the operation to another room,including remote control.
The oversight in the design seemed to be though,that you needed to switch the second pair of ‘speakers on/off via the transceiver manually,and could’nt ever have just the remote room ‘speaker operating.
We used to get around this by reversing the speaker 1/2 connections,as the sockets are cabled in paralel.Speaker 1 (main)then can be switched off via the 2 switch under the cover.
You’d need to wire up the MCL30 using the special cable and connections as per Keith’s post above.The cable and special 3 pin plug’s are becoming very rare now though.
If you are looking to upgrade ,it might be worth looking for a Beomaster 3300,as these were fully MCL 2(Extra Speaker etc) system compatible.
Nick
Ok Tom.
The sound selection needs to be “sound”,then either 1,2 or 3.
The selection of internal or external speakers is carried out by a relay,so I would expect that in sound mode 3,there would be no sound at all,without external speakers connected?
As you are using an external source and not the internal tuner,it suggests that the problem is in the main audio control circuit (IC1)on pcb 5,or the output stage which is on the main board(pcb10).The output chips are located at the rear edge of pcb10 closest to the crt.
With the set unpowered at this stage,slide the chassis out,and check the printed circuit around the output chips and the relay for dry joints,as the parts can push through the solder here.
if nothing is obvious,we can then get technical with a meter?
Nick
Hello Klaus,you get some interesting problems?
This machine has a “safety circuit”,designed to stop it functioning if anything stops the mechanism.I imagine that the capstan belt has perished by now,and the mech is jammed?
The computer monitors the consumption of the capstan motor,and shuts the machine down if it becomes excessive.
Could it be that?
Nice machine of course-good performer.
Nick
Ok Tom.
What about the other options,sound 1,2,3?
These are to change between the internal speakers(1)internal and external speakers(2)or just the external speaker’s(3).
If still no sound,then yes indeed internal inspection is the next step,but great care is needed!
There are very high voltages present inside crt tv’s,even when switched off!
Are you aware of this,and confident to proceed?
If not,it may be best to enlist the help of someone experienced?
Nick
Ok Tom.
Try “option programming” first.
Assuming that you have the original Beolink 1000 remote control?
With the tv in stand-by,press the PICTURE button,followed by the 1 button,then STORE,and the standby light on the set should blink .
Switch the set on,and if you now have sound-goodo-sorted?
If not,try pressing SOUND-1-store.
If still no go,then there is a problem,alas,but no doubt fixable
Don’t be tempted to tinker with the “service mode” yet.I suspect that this is what you mean by “hack on the board”?
Wholesale recapping means replacing all the electrolytic capacitors,as recommended by some,but it’s rarely necessary,and can in fact introduce more problems.
Better to work methodically?
From your discription,it seems as though the set is essentially functioning,so it should’nt need much work.
Nick
These are great telly’s,but they do have number of “usual suspects”when things go wrong.
Do you have a user guide,as you need to investigate the set up,which is done via on screen guides and the remote control.
The set has a variety of audio set up options,and your’s may have been used with external ‘speakers,or as part of a Beolink system,where the tv sound was relayed via a seperate compatible B&O audio set up?
The squealing sound you mention seems a bit sinister,suggesting that something is amiss.
Re-capping,particularly of the power supple module is standard practice with these sets,if no previous work has been done.Wholesale re-capping is not usually necessary and can introduce new problems too!
Nick
Dare I ask why you need a pcb,as they are usually alway’s repairable unless actually broken or water damaged?
Nick
Does your loftbox (Global,Triax,Labgear?) need the satellite input,ie,do you use Sky etc,in the lounge?
If not,you could try a wide band amplifier at the “lounge”output of the loftbox.This will boost all the signals of course,and compensate for the losses of the splitter downstairs.
Ideally,a variable output amplifier,as you may need to balance between acceptable radio reception and not overloading tv,although thats unlikely.
Nick
The first one has adequate frequency range,but the second one is probably less attenuating.
Are you connecting to the loftbox “lounge” cable,or one of the extension feeds?
Nick
It’s a good mechanism,but the weak link is the rubber belt which perishes with age.
The replacement type/size is crucial too,and Martin can almost certainly help with that too.
Now we have established the machine type,I can dig among my own salvaged parts,but I don’t remember having one of those motors spare.
Nick
So,is it an Ouverture or perhaps a Beocenter 4000?
Both feature cassette decks but are quite different beasts.
Might save some time and help the guy if we can establish that,right?
Nick
Is Ouverture 4000 a model?
The cassette motor in the Ouverture is not usually a “squeaker”,but may have been put under strain by having an incorrect drive belt fitted at some stage?
Contact Martin Olsen,member “dillen” here.Martin has vast knowledge of vintage B&O,and a seemingly inexhaustible supply of salvaged part’s too!
Nick
The splitter will attenuate both signals.If you are using a resistive “Y” type splitter,this is the worst case.
If you use a better quality,metal cased inductive type splitter,it should’nt attenuate so much.
These have a frequency range from 5Mhz up through the radio and tv band’s.
The FM band is the low end,then next up,the Dab band.
Nick
I’m saddened to learn of Beoworld’s predicament.
I joined as it was a question of simply having to be involved in something that catered to my passion for B&O product.
I’ve met many interesting people here as a result,and gained a mass of information too.
Although I’ve been involved with B&O equipment for nearly fifty years,I’m still surprised by other Beoworld member’s knowledge.
I think that you need to capitalise on the value of the resource too.
There is of course a growing element of the “something for nothing” mindset,that won’t pay for anything,but I suspect that there are other’s that would be prepared to pay a token amount in respect of help received,or simply to donate to keep the site active?
Beoworld certainly needs to consult with web marketing experts,to look at way’s to generate income.I’m amazed that there is no advertising onsite,this is often the sole reason for having a web presence,and surely could be utilised sensitively?
I certainly would’nt object to an increase in subscription fee’s,and the prize draw is a bonus,not an incentive.Why not have a random tickeded unpredictable draw,to keep people guessing.
I’m sure too,as other’s have suggested, that we could donate item’s from our own collections,as indirect contribution?
I’ve found Beoworld to be an invaluable resource over the years,and I wish the team the best for the future,and hope that you can continue
Nick
Thanks Martin.
I was’nt aware of that,and it’s “food for thought”indeed.
The crowbar “safety” circuit was a terrible idea imho,and as you say,it could often trigger for no reason.The Beomaster 1500 was also afflicted with this,but it was’nt such a problem as in the ‘2200.
B&O came up with several solutions,which did in fairness improve the reliability of what was and still is an innovative and nice sounding unit.
If anyone has one languishing in their “round tuit” corner,I’d be interested in taking it off your hands,to tinker with.
Nick
Nick
This type of problem is of course tricky to trace as it’s so intermittant,but I suspect a power supply problem.
Have you refurbished the machine Klaus?
Those reed switches that route the supplies,can cause all sorts of problems.The 6 volt regulator is a known troublemaker too.
If you can connect a meter,then when the problem occur’s again,check if anything is missing?
Could temperature have some bearing?Do you leave the machine in standby,or disconnect when not using?
Freezer spray might provoke the gremlin?Try around the power supply board.
Nick
I wonder if “Eric” is injecting “magic dust”into the pcb.They must get through a lot during this project?
I hope that it’s not contact lubricant into old intermittant presets?
Of course,later,he will replace that old ropey Wicon cap too,and dismantle the turntable motor and re-infuse the bearings etc etc?
Watching the video of this project on the B&O website,I was reminded of tv’s the Repair Shop,but without the mawkish ” human story” element.
Praps its just me again,but?
Nick
Is it a silly question,but is the carriage drive belt in good condition?
Silicon anywhere near those switch contacts is bad new’s too!
Nick
The inner brass tube of the counterweight becomes detached as the glue dries out.
You can remove the counterweight and unscrew the inner brass tube.Take care to note the position of the tube relative to the outer weight though,so as to have the correct weight calibration when you reassemble.
Once exposed,you can reglue the inner tube to the rubber bung on the arm,using superglue.
Reassemble and recalibrate tracking weight as necessary.
Nick
Martin (member Dillen)used to be able to refurbish these display modules on an exchange basis.ie,you sent him your faulty one,and he sent you a rebuilt one.
Very well done too in my experience,with the illumination/colour as per the original.
Have a look at his Beoparts shop website/
Nick
