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personally, I’d got for the 20s for music listening.
I might be a bit old fashioned in my love for 2.0 music, but when I had 18s and 19, I didnt love the way music was reproduced. Wasnt by any means bad at all, but just didn’t quite seem right to my ears.
no, all your settings / calibrations are maintained.
I’ve been on 2.5.3 for a couple of months, nothing to really be concerned about.
But even before the Mozart days, Beovisions could use Beolabs speakers in a surround setup, but could not use the Beoplay/Beosound speaker systems.
So there has always been a separation of which part of the speaker range one could use for a surround setup.
This is not new.
Sounds like you are routing some of your video sources through a matrix to the Theatre? If so, I do the same with my Sky Q, though thats the only source routed that way.
If your ATV 4K is passing through the matrix to the LG / theatre, then you need to make sure your matrix can pass through Dolby Vision. Mine does not, so my ATV 4K doesn’t go through the matrix and is connected directly to the Theatre without issues.
If you matrix does support DV, make sure that that the matrix settings for that output (that carries the ATV) is set to an EDID profile that allows DV (i.e full UHD). Not sure what your pre-theatre television was, but it may be that just that the matrix output settings need to be toggled to full UHD. Then the ATV and Theatre/Lg will recognise the whole chain as full UHD capable.
It would be interesting to know if that Picture Mute option was available with the Eclipse / Harmony? (I never owned either myself).
I guess the point being, if that option wasnt there for those LG based BV’s, then I suspect its unlikely that it gets introduced on the Theatre.
@c-larsen, thanks for the power cycle recommendation.
Just so you know, this PUC non-response issue has happened to me again, and this time on both of my Theatre’s.
Power cycling has fixed it for the moment.
That said, this type of recurring issue isn’t really very acceptable, for the record.
Yes, I had this exact same problem on my bedroom Theatre a month ago.
To be clear, the BR1 List button would show on its screen the PUC function list, but none of the functions did anything. It was as if that while the BR1 still had the list, the Theatre just went deaf to any PUC commands sent from the BR1.
I got nowhere with my dealer, long story.
I factory reset everything, including deleting the B&O app from the LG tv, and once it was all set up again, its been fine.
I think someone on Discord posted a similar issue, to which Christian responded that a power cycle should fix it (I actually didnt try that, and did the reset route above, but if it recurs, a power cycle should be the first thing to try I guess)
But it certainly tested my patience.
As someone who had an Avant for a few years, I remember this.
There is a bug someone in the Avant’s UI and the information it reports, with respect to this. So with 4K content being input, the UI will say 1080P, when it is actually 4K. I went through this with my dealer at the time.
TSG = technical sound guide
its the full user manual for the 50s, and available on the B&O site
I meant that its worth reading, and you can use the find function on your computer to locate the relevant part relating to input settings
as for input impedance, the app gives you 2 choices : 50 ohms or 50 k ohms.
mine is set to 50 k
chose the one most appropriate to your Marantz.
Look up the specs of your Marantz RCA output.
As indicated above, hopefully the specs say something helpful / similar like for my Linn i.e its RCA is max 2V at 80 (linn) volume.
If it doesn’t indicate the volume, and just says rated at 2V, then you may need to play around with a Marantz volume and find a max Marantz volume than makes sense.
And yes, I think with the Marantz RCA rated at 2V, then you should set the BL50s input voltage (for RCA) at 2V too.
Also check the Marantz RCA impedance, and make sure it fits with the right BL50s RCA impedance setting.
Again, worth having a quick scan of the BL50s TSG – a quick Ctrl F for “impedance” and / or “voltage” will get you to the right section quickly.
For my BL50s I have a Linn streamer/DAC connected to the 50s with RCA, for context.
Apologies if you have done some of this already, but…
Check your connected 3rd party device RCA output spec. For my Linn, the RCA outputs at “2V rms at volume 80 (Linn volume)”, and “output impedance 300 ohms”
On my Bl50s, in the configuration settings, I therefore set the RCA input to 2V max input voltage, and the Input Impedance at 50K ohms (the only other choice is 50 ohms).
Seems to work all perfectly well. For example, if I crank the Linn’s volume to its max (90 or 100, cant remember), then the sound out of the 50s deteriorates.
And at the BL50 end, assuming I’m sending out Linn volume 80, then changing the BL50s settings just quietens the sound too much . For example, setting the max Input Voltage to 4, sound is too quiet.
I think there is a little bit on all this is the BL50s Technical Sound Guide.
What 3rd party equipment do you have connected?
Not sure exactly what’s your priority here is.
To use Roon in your Theatre/18s/19 setup? Or to use hi-res music?
You can obviously use Roon in that setup, as the Apple TV is Roon Ready, so will use Roon’s RAAT protocol to stream to. I dont do that with my Apple TV in my living room myself, but I have a different setup with a 3rd party streamer/DAC direct to my front L/R speakers.
I dont really have anything to add re hi-res music to my previous posts I’m afraid. Personally I’d only want to listen to music (2.0) through front left / rights – other combinations of speakers (including the Theatre) doesn’t do it for me.
You could get a network streamer/DAC that is Roon ready and use its analogue output to connect direct to your BL18s.
I do that with my BL50s, though they have higher capabilities than the 18s.
Again, I wouldn’t get over exercised about hi-res on speakers like the 18s. And also, many B&O customers (some of whom have 18s) use Deezer Hifi, which is not the lower bitrate of Spotify, but full CD quality streams. That’s generally how a lot of customers use their stuff.
As someone who had for a long time BL18s and a BL19, I would respectfully say that you really won’t hear much/any difference with hi-res music on these speakers.
Otherwise, the Theatre (as I’m sure you know) doesn’t have a separate digital input which you could use for a network streamer, so you have the option of using the analogue input (USB-C input with the correct dongle), and connect a streamer/DAC to send the Theatre an analogue (hi-res) source.
apologies, honest mistake!
The Halo doesn’t yet have the television control (beyond volume) that it does with the Harmony/Eclipse (if thats what the question was directed at).
and of course, just to add that the bl50s do not have BT, hence the need to use something else (Wifi or IR).
Not sure what your audio source is?
I have bl50s, and a 3rd party streamer/DAC connected directly via RCA.
You can add an IR eye in/behind the side panel of your master 50 speaker, and the BR1 (set to Beosound mode) can then control its volume. (you can play/pause etc also with the BR1, but not with an analogue RCA source obviously, so just volume in that case).
Its ok, not brilliantly responsive but it does work – depends on how direct line of sight the BR1 has of the panel where you’ve hidden the IR eye.
A BR Halo now can (volume) control the BL50s using wifi – that may be a touch more responsive. But unless you can find a Halo on a cheap deal, 700GBP is a lot to spend on a volume wheel product, when all the rest of the things the Halo can do are not usable for you.
Sonos have done exactly the same with their newly released Aero 100 and 300 speakers.
the design is nice enough, but not particularly special to me.
If it was from a different brand, I’m pretty sure many here would say “yeah, well, its nice enough” but not go much further than that.
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