Ravsted
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Hi,
You cannot just try over and over again. After 5 attempts it will shut down for 3 hours.
Either you get the PIN from previous owner or you get the master PIN from B&O head quarter. To get the master PIN you need prove of purchase. Again…. This documentation should be provided by the seller.
There is no work-around … Very efficient theft protection …
Hi,
Chromecast Audio is also pretty loud at even low volumes (10-30%).
To get better volume control where the whole scale on a mobile device can be used I’ve put a in-line volume control between my CDA devices and the BeoLab speakers.
It allow me to set a ‘max’ volume for every BeoLab speaker set.
My ears cannot hear any reduced audio quality by doing so …
Like this one:
Beovision Avant was released in 2014
I believe the 85″ version came end of 2014 … Maybe a bit later.
The NG (New Generation) came in 2016.
As you picture says NG – Type 8870 must be the New Generation type.
The NG runs on same platform as Beovision 14 i.e. Android TV. The NG works with BeoRemote 1 BT (Bluetooth instead of IR)
If I google ‘Beovision Avant label’ I see that type 8679 is first generation.
Hope this information helps a bit.
Hi,
Assume it’s a 7-32 since you say it’s a MK3 and has DVI.
Except from the valid input from Guy it can be a TV Firmware glich or DVI/HDMI handshake issue. I’ve seen that before. While the ATV is connected switch off the TV. Disconnect from mains in 2 minutes. Reconnect. Start TV via PC command on Beo4.
However, I fear it’s a HDCP issue combined with the chosen converter. Even though the MK3 is HDTV compatible I’ve seen those issues before. Some converters work. Other don’t.
Try to connect any other HDMI source you might have…. PC, PS4/5 anything…. It will give you further hints…
Bad minijack/powerlink cable ?
EDIT: Guess that should affect the BL8000 as well …
My second guess would be the ice-power amp which can cause those symptoms as well..
Thank you @Pepps
Unfortunately the Lintronic company is closed.
Read more here…
I got several Lintronic 5.1 and 6.1 in my home. I got the latest configuration software before Michael closed his company. And even after closing his company he has been kind to provide a bit of support.
If you get a second hand Lintronic check with Michael if he will allow you to buy a licenced version of the ‘configurator’ …. It’s a great product. I also use it in my ‘main room’… Read more here
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/45510/345141.aspx#345141
@Matador. Good question…
I expected that I had to make significant changes to the picture settings due to the contrast screen. But actually that was not the case.
I use a standard/neutral setting – and black is black.
EDIT: On the last picture I posted above I had changed backlight to +30%. But it turned out it wasn’t needed at all. So now – with neutral settings – black is black.
Hi,
For the 7-32 you remove the back plastic cover. It gives access to the screws securing the glass panel. Now the glass can be liftet off.
Removing the LCD panel is no rocket science. Just a few screws holding it in place.
Find the service manual for the 7-55 to see how it works for that TV.
That said, I only did this change because the panel was worn out, and the MK1 technology doesn’t have multiple HDMI sockets. It was simply end of life.
I had two options. Finding a second hand (and quite rare) 7-32 with HDMI…. Or doing the upgrade as described above.
I would not consider such a change if I had a 7-55 in working order….
I got 4000 and 3 along with other BeoLab’s.
They are all connected to ChromeCast audio and serves as our budget multiroom audio solution.
First, check that you have enabled ‘full dynamic range’ in the Google Home app. This setting is configured for every CCA individually.
Check the placement switch of the 3’s. I have mine set to ‘free’ even though they are pretty close to a stone wall on low table stands. Maybe you favor ‘corner’ or ‘wall’ ?
I added an in line volume control to fix the problem with too high volume. Done that for all my speakers connected to ChromeCast Audio.
Try to move the 3’s. Distance to wall makes a huge difference.
Try without the 11. Tune the 3’s without 11 first.
I never had the 11. I combined my 3’s with Cambridge x200 sub instead. Gives much better options for tweeking. And it even looks similar to the 3’s. (Esthetic wise)
Link, example, in-line volume control
I got a BeoLab 7.1 (wired using both left and right channel as center channel).
It is at great center speaker with lot of power and clarity.
If you go for at home-brew solution with a passive speaker I would build something around a non-B&O center speaker … A good second hand B&W or whatever you prefer. I believe that will give you a way better acoustic result.
You can still modify the speaker cabinet to match the Pentas in some way.
Summary:
You panel is defect.
They pick up the defective unit.
They give you a loan-unit while repairing/replacing.
?
In this upgrade I sacrificed the DVD player (never used), the curtains (wasn’t available for DVI input anyhow), and the stand. I can’t build a controller myself and I don’t want to spend the money for the product mentioned in the link above.
I am really happy with the result, low budget upgrade, hassle free HDMI connectivity and still keeping the Bang & Olufsen look/feel with Beo4 operation.
In another room I’ve got a BV40 stand and BL7-2 with a Sony Bravia 55″ on top operated via Beo4/Lintronic.
But honestly I’m considering doing the same modification of the Beovision 7-40 monitor (still here) as I feel you really loose some of the ‘class’ by just putting a plastic TV on top of the stand….
