pepps
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Thank you! I really appreciate your help (thumbs up)!
Sure, no problem. Maybe let us know here if you got any further with that issue then.
Update: I bought a bluetooth receiver and connected that to the L&R audio input of AV5. Powered on and told the BV that AV5 was DVD2. Went to the kitchen and activated DVD2 with the Beolink 1000 (thanks to Guy’s old Beo4/Beolink 1000 shortcuts thread).
Youtube audio from my phone via bluetooth to the BV and through the BL Converter, through the BM and via MCL Xtra Speakers kit to the kitchen 😀
The desired outcome achieved.Julian
I have a good feeling about Beoworld – I’ve been a proud member of the forum for a long time, learned so much and expanded my knowledge and enthusiasm for all things B&O.
Dillen and Guy have been legends helping me repair my beloved Beosystems.
Onwards and upwards, always appreciating the creators and the caretakers.Welcome Mark. Thank you Lee andKeith.
Cheers everyone!Fingers and toes crossed for a smooth transfer.
Thanks for the update Keith ?Hi Alfa,
The 3500 is a great system, looks fantastic!
I have a similar issue with my BeogramCD too. If I gently press down on the rear top right hand corner as a cd is playing (on the grill not the lid) the hum stops. So I am inclined to believe perhaps the mounting of the power supply is old and needs replacing. I shall take a look inside soon enough.
It could also be due to a tired capacitor or two. These players are quite old now.
A cap replacement kit is available from the Beoparts store online.
I’m afraid I don’t know what might be causing your other issues with the Beocord and Beogram, other than to check the Beocord is correctly earthed.
The Beogram? I have no experience with the inner workings of these.Service manuals are available to Gold Beoworld members. Always a worthwhile consideration.
Good luck with the repairs!
Julian
Woop! Woop! This has to go down as one of the best easy quick wins in Beoworld history!!
Hello,
There is an overview of each of these Beosystems under the ‘products’ menu at the Beoworld homepage.
The 5000 series is the oldest and uses a different style of IR coding – it cannot be controlled by Beolink 1000 or Beo4, for example.
The 7000 is the newest and has RDS in the tuner section along with 2-way communication when paired with Beolink 7000.
My personal favourite is the 6000 series – I prefer the polished finish over that of the 5500 series. The 7000 series remains out of my price range as it is often thought of as the last of its kind and therefore the most refined.Hope this helps you choose your favourite.
Julian
I wish you the very best with this and will await your update. I don’t have any knowledge or experience to share with you sadly, but I hope you succeed because this is something I’ve been looking into for my BV7.
Update and closure!
Dear all, thank you for your contributions and suggestions. Today I had some spare time (at last) so took both my Penta amps off the towers and set them out on the kitchen table. Took them both apart (only to the power supply stage) and compared the working one to the not working one.
I resoldered some rather bad looking connections and swapped out both fuses in the Penta (the 2A and 150A (140A was not available but read on here that 150A would be ok)) before resoldering in a new mains power lead.
Reassembled and tested.
Everything works perfectly!!Hi Beohacker,
I didn’t know that, thank you 🙂
So what is enabling the firestick audio when it does come through MCL to the kitchen? Because if the kids are watching a film off Netflix for example in the main room (via firestick) I can use Av, TV on the link room Beolink 1000 and listen to the audio from their film.
I can also cast music to the firestick from my phone and hear that in the link room, but only if the BV is on and TV is the connection in use.In this scenario the HDMI input is being broadcast via MCL.
My problem is simply getting this to work without having to go to the main room to turn the Beovision on to TV before coming back to the link room to cast music.
Julian
Hi Beohacker,
Thanks for your reply. It’s a mk5 type 9644. The HDMI inputs do allow digital audio via masterlink because the firestick, internal tuner and bluray audio can all be played in the link room.
My issue is with activating the ‘TV’ input from the link room.Julian
Hello,
I’d like to hop on to this thread if I may and ask for some advice.Main room:
BV7-40 >> masterlink to 1611 >> datalink to Tape2/Aux and powerlink to powerlink on BM3500.Kitchen:
connected to BM3500 via MCL xtra speakers kit to two Beovox 1702s.Scenario: I can activate the tv tuner in the BV from the kitchen on a Beolink 1000 by pressing AV, Satellite. I use this frequently to listen to digital radio via the BV.
I can activate all musical sources from the BM3500 without issue.
The problem is I have an Amazon Firestick connected via HDMI to the BV under the button ‘TV’. I can cast music from my phone to the firestick – it shows the devices are connected and that a file is playing. But when I press AV, TV on the Beolink 1000 I don’t get the sound from the Firestick. I don’t get any sound at all.If I go upstairs to the main room and press ‘TV’ on the Beo4, the BV wakes up and displays the firestick with the music file playing. At this point the sound comes through the kitchen speakers. From this point forward I mute the BV picture, mute the main room sound and go back downstairs to play music in the kitchen.
So why can’t I just activate ‘TV’ from the kitchen with AV, TV on the Beolink 1000?
When it works it’s a great way to enjoy my Youtube music account. I was wondering if any other Beoworlders were using the same process and if there’s a workaround to get the link aspect to work a little more efficiently. I’m probably benefitting from the exercise of running up and down the stairs but it’s a faff when I just want to cook dinner and play some music.
Any ideas always welcomed and appreciated.
Kind regards,
Julian
Update: I found the 5A fuse in the mains plug to be blown. Continuity in the mains cable is good.
I replaced the 5A fuse and connected to the mains. Red light. All good.
I connected the + and – speaker leads from the amp to the binding posts and the powerlink connector. Put everything back together. Connected the mains once again and “POP!”. The little 2A fuse blew inside the amp.
So I’m still trying to suss out what’s wrong.
Is a 5A mains fuse ok for a Penta amp?Did you connect everything with power off?
Then power on only after all speaker connections are complete?Hi pepps, If you shorted live and neutral, there should have been no voltage applied to your Penta, so no damages. Did you check the continuity of the Penta power cord ? Is it possible that the cable was damaged during your modification ? Regards,
Hi Pilatomic,
You know what I didn’t check the mains lead for continuity at all!
I’ll do so and see it it was indeed the cable which suffered.
Thank you.Hi Julian, Is this what your fuse board looks like? There are 2 of them: one for the small transformer and the other for the larger one. /Les
Hi Les,
Yes I do have fuses like this. Neither have blown, which is why I’m wondering what on earth the problem is 🙂
JulianActually the missing resistor wasn’t the issue. In the original board the same resistor was removed, so not a coincidence. What ended up being the issue was a loose connector on a capacitor. The trace had lifted from the board for one of the legs on the capacitor, so I just added a jumper wire. Problem solved. The doors and cassette motors work at the proper speed. Always seems like something minor. ?
Fantastic well deduced!
First, check the fuse(s). There is one where the power chord comes in (you need to unmount the bottom of the amp. I don’t remember if there is more than one fuse.
Hi Filip,
Thank you for your reply. I checked continuity on that fuse and it tested fine.
Does anybody know if there’s another one?
Julian
