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Im sure that lots of people have contrary views but most of the Beolabs ever….have received analogue signals and although I get the itch of many to simplify “the chain”, I still prefer my BL90s to receive XLR analogue signals from an Auralic Vega G2 DAC rather than play from the Auralic G2 Streamer via coax or USB.
As a further side note, I have difficulty connecting a USB link to my BL90s (I think the length is too great – over 5m, and/or the cable not good enough) but it seems to link at DSD64 (88k sample rate input – approx). The Coax output to the BL90 works fine and indicates 178k sample rate input.
The question to answer technically (I have a preference – which is what I actual do) is, Stream, upsample to DSD512 internally, DAC to Analogue to XLR to BL90 OR, Stream, Upsample to DSD128 (178k-ish) and send to the BL90 via coax?
I prefer the Analogue signal into the BL90s but there’s not much in it.
I guess the answer is…it depends?
The depend is that the BL18s do not have volume control.
Therefore, this must be done either at the Cambridge CXN (digitally to the Coax/TOSlink) or via the App you use to control the CXN.
I connect my Auralic Altair G1 (RCA/XLR out to RCA in ) BL17. Its all at the Analogue state – much I guess where you are now and the volume control works perfectly with the Auralic App. so its all down to the CXN doing volume control on a digital output?
In a way…..and this is my bad…..the BL8s are a lot bigger than I imagined based on the initial perception from the press photos. I had a quarter-sized BL6000 in my minds eye. The dimensions state the truth but real life gives it context I guess?
I think its something to do with the name…….”USB”. Something universal about it so it can do many things in different ways. That is unless you need it to do something to an Apple device that is
There is no problem to use the Lyngdorf with Beolab 5, I did it many years, it is absolutely transforming the sound coming out from the Beolab 5 after running the RoomPerfect setup, it is really night and day. As long as you don’t use the Speakers output, you only use the PREAMP part of the Lyngdorf. I don’t have experience connecting them by line in, possibly you will be able to control the volume with the Lyngdorf and power them on. Give it a try and you will see, don’t forget to set the Lyngdorf not full range and start with volume at -50. But it would really be a pity to not use the full path in digital and use the BL5 internal DAC that is truly excellent. But you will need a Beo4, that’s for sure.
Think I pretty much said that…..
“Do not send an Amplified signal as this will damage the BL5s. IIRC 2V is the max analogue voltage.
If there is a non-DAC coax output or line level it should be OK but please please confir with BnO”
I think I would be very careful with the Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 as it is a Streaming DAC Amplifier. External Amplifiers and beolabs are not a good combination. Do not send an Amplified signal as this will damage the BL5s. IIRC 2V is the max analogue voltage.
If there is a non-DAC coax output or line level it should be OK but please please confir with BnO
I use an Auralic Altair G1 streaming DAC with a 2.2vmax RCA output to a pair of BL17s. Works perfectly. The Auralic software controls the volume and has an inbuilt algorithm to attenuate -3db, -6dB and -12dB to give volume sensitivity (I use -6dB)
I am making a prediction that one of the new products slated over the next 12months will be a Beolink Converter device which will overcome legacy Mozart products which can’t join as a slave Beolab to another Beosound or Beovision
I can see this loudspeaker killing-off the Balance completely. I think there is also serious consideration for cannibalising the BL28 sales.
What would you rather do – Buy a Theatre and a pair of BL28s or a Theatre, 2 pairs of BL8s with a BL19? Give or take…..same price.
I saw that, but come on! It’s a lot of money!
I have owned BO products for many years now, but now I am afraid they may be opening doors to other companies for me personally now..
I certainly think that they are on the lower end of my price expectation. A simple lookup of say the Beolab3 will show that when introduced, it was £2200 in 2004. In todays 2023 money thats about £4300. So with the cloth fret, plus the extra tech you get in there….I would say its pretty competitive?
Where I think B&O go too far with the BL8…..is justifying a £1k premium for the wooden frets. I would also imagine the mounting options will quite expensive add-ons too?
No, as I hear it……..the BS Balance cannot simply converted to a Beolab. To me it sounds as simple to do as plugging in. 3.5mm Jackplug for earphones. However, it’s beyond B&O at this time.
There is also the question over Wi-Fi, WISA and Bluetooth. They are not all compatible together and antennas have to be minimum distance apart. I think WISA is the problem?
All this is my speculation but I would not be surprised if an adapter-product is finally developed to link all these Beosound loudspeakers together for solid stereo or surround pairing. They really need to.
I think a lot of the team were on break over the summer months. I received an update today on beta so I think they will start build up momentum once again
Some say a BL3 replacement, some say BL17 replacement, some even say a mini BL28 form-factor.
I would not be shocked at a £5-8k price point and that it’s actually a Powerlink Beosound (I.e big brother to the Balance).
For me, adoption will be based on form-factor. Something very compact and easy to hide high-up on a wall or ceiling. Something as complicated design-wise as a Balance or BL28 won’t work for me.
Expect it comes to market between now and the end of October. Next week is also CEDIA….we could be lucky but it seems too near to the Ferrari SE launch for me to think it definite?
Answer is no. No consumer way to access the Theatre. If you had remote access to your home router, the ip access has no control. The only access to “settings” of the Theatre is via your account in the BeoApp. The BR1 can control some settings for viewing only as far as I am aware.
As indicated previously, use the BL9 cables and swap over so you don’t have a splitter. If you can add the BL3s then it’s the splitter.
I have not ever added a BnO sub…so I wonder if that can be selected as a sub in the setup, and you split-off the BL3s from the sub? It might not be great for placement but it helps identify where the trouble is
Then adding your speakers to the Speaker Connections routine do you get this….
I’ve added a BL3 but it’s showing a blank grey square (for some buggy reason). I can add another BL3 below it. Do the same with the bl9s and figure out the bl2 later
See if the theatre auto detects and it will ask you to identify L and R speakers
Other than that, I’m running out of ideas from my keyboard and blind to the subject matter.
Hi,
The RJ45 Splitter. I assume this is OEM B&O part? I tried cheap once with an Ethernet splitter…and they dont work.
Recheck the L/R switching. It may also be worth test the Line-in selection.
Recheck that everything is locked in
May be worth trying to disconnect the BL9s and use their cables to ascertain the Theatre/BL3s can be seen on separate lines?
Try connecting the the BL3 surrounds without the BL2 (I assume this is what you are doing). The daisy-chaining of the Lab2 can come later.
For the record, I had plenty of fun getting over what you are going through right now. It just needs some methodical approach to figure-out what is causing the problem (Splitter box, cables, switching) and then it comes all right.
Hope this helps?
Hi Tim,
Thanks for sharing. I agree too with your point on B&O Marketing.
I think another aspect to consider – and it goes to your Birkin Bag is what a lot of us BeoEnthusiasts get drawn into is the slick aluminium, wood and glass of B&O. In a way its quite manly and my wife comments often on this (she “accepts” my brown leather sofas, modern sculptures, Walnut sleek sideboards etc…but only thru our history together).
However, to the chagrin of many BeoWorlders, my view is the Marketing and Design Dept should be looking to enhance room interiors more with their products by getting the WAF right. Get the WAF right and you get far more sales. Make it seem poor value or too masculine/complicated in terms of interior design/or technical setup (App/software glitches) …..you lose the sale.
I wish B&o all the best but in my opinion this is the wrong way. They should keep in mind they are not targeting the top 1% of people. Their new target group is the top 0,001% of people and even those only need a tv and speakers from time to time and they are way less attracted to the newest tech than the top 1%.
And that is the most glaring problem I see with B&Os strategy and new demographic. There are two major issues I see……..one is that sales will collapse in the interim as Dealers close due to lack of sales and “affordable” top end products wither away, the Company will be just another Bluetooth gadget and headphone supplier on Amazon and second, when one looks at the net worth and disposable income in the top 5%, 2%, 1%, those numbers and those numbers of who give a damn on high end AV and of those who give a damn of that AV being B&O is going to be very small.
I think this is going to be a classic case of Corporate self-immolation which could only be eclipsed by the likes of Gerald Ratner of “Ratners Jewellers” fame. (A CEO of a big low end jewellery chain who called his own products “a load of cr@p”)
Just reading your post a bit deeper, I don’t know what input VRMS settings you can select on the BL50s? On the BL90s you can select 2.0v, 4.0v and 6.5v IIRC. So i guess the BL90 can do a bit of signal attenuation? 50s may also have a similar function?
However, it may be relevant to know the receiver output VRMS? If it’s low……..say 1vrms, that may be the reason why you have to crank the BL50 volume up? So it may be worth looking up what the matching values are and adjust to similar values if you can?
