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I think we help those who need help – wherever it may be required

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I think what has happened (I changed batteries on an old BR1 two days ago – 14weeks from commissioning the Theatre) is that there was a software request that the BR1 was slow to respond (wakeup) with the Theatre after a period of inactivity.

The Theatre is what I would call two-way Control (not Comms) and heavily BeoApp dependant. I think to speed-up remote response, the BR1 has been “opened-up” channel-wise to be responsive for longer (A bit like 30min sleep on a PC). This will go through battery PDQ.

I suppose the solution to this would be for a) B&O to get the BR1 and make rechargeable with a USB-C dock (an add back-light while they are doing it) or b) get the Halo sorted out as a viable remote option.

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lundmark wrote:

There does not seem to be a way to configure the List menu of the remote. No way of reordering, rename, add or remove menu items to optimize it for your use-case. This would be useful to get rid of stuff you don’t need, especially in the Light and Control menus (which I use with Home Assistant); these have pre-populated items with very specific names that you can map to automations, but without being able to rename them most of them make no sense for my setup. It’s a minor gripe but a weird omission, given how configurable the BeoRemote is when used with a legacy product.

It is relatively easy to customise the list menus – but there are two main problems:- 1) its done in different parts of the App and 2) rename something too many times, the BR1 locks up and cannot be changed. Only a full Theatre reset can put this right.

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The name of your theatre would have been something like BS Theatre – 00serial no00 >

As you can say, you can change/rename. However, i have not notice this before on my Unit

What I have noticed that if you rename the TV list or Radio List in the remote setting too often, it will reset to say HDMI A and cant be changed. Only a Hard Factory Reset can then change it.

I suspect its something about the BeoApp and the Theatre 2-way control which hangs up. I have raised these points with Beocare…..and maybe one day they get around to fixing it?

 

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Thank you for contacting Bang & Olufsen Customer Care.

We appreciate your feedback to consider supporting DTS on top of Atmos, & we will gladly look into this for you.

We at Bang & Olufsen strive for the best when it comes to our customers and supporting them.

That is why customer satisfaction & feedback is essential to us; we understand where you’re coming from and we really appreciate the feedback.

We’ll pass this on to the corresponding team; we appreciate your patience & understanding.

Please do not hesitate to contact us again if you have further doubts or other questions.

Kind regards,

 

Bang & Olufsen Customer Care

Email: ecom-support@bang-olufsen.com | Hotline: +44 20 37 69 02 54

BANG & OLUFSEN

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I find the batteries in the BR1 variable – even with market-leading brands over those cheap ones that always ship with OEM products.

I’ve seen BR1 last 4-6 weeks and sometimes over 6 months ++.

I think the Bluetooth side of it (with 2-way control) eats a lot of power inherently.

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My opinion is the BL18/19 won’t get near the 5’s.

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Just to add, Ive just interrogated the my Kaleidescape system on the audio porting.

So it looks like zero support on the Theatre for DTS so the Kaleidescape (and probably all decent BR-Players), pump-out what they can handshake with up to 7.1PCM 192/24

 

 

 

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Hi,

I’ve just done a test on one of the few non-Atmos films I have at the moment. I tested Gravity in BR quality.

Now natively, this should be played as DTS-HD but the BeoApp Signal is showing 5.1. I cant tell if this is piping an SD Dolby format (one of the back-tracks I had in the download) or if it is emulating DTS-HD? And to be hones, Gravity is a film with few booms and bangs to judge.

It sounded OK, but Im not 100% certain if it was the genre of the film or the decoding but sounded a little like 4.0 sound-ish? If it were not for the BL90s, Im also not sure if the LFE channel was delivering discretely.

My view is something like the UB820 should be able to handle both DTS and Atmos but as you suggest, if it is instructed to pump-out 7.1 from a DTS sound format, the Theatre should pick that up and distribute the sound as either 5.1 or 7.1 PCM.

An ideal sound card for the Theatre would be one with both Atmos and DTS encoded natively?

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Ive seen two pairing modes on the Theatre.

On H9’s ,it seems to be handled via the Theatre. I think if your H7’s are in the BeoApp, this should show on the List >> Headphones on/off

On the Portals, the pairing was via the LG pairing system – which was irritating because if the Mrs was watching TV and I was on my iPad, the LG/Portal would take over the TV sound. I unpaired that connection quickly.

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I think a lot of the decision making is what your living space can accommodate? I have BL90s is my living room – which I can and do live with.

However, I would not contemplate additional column speakers or even BL4000 or BL17 as surrounds. I choose BL3 only as the most compact solution as not to be overwhelmingly a B&O showroom.

My philosophy would be to get the most powerful Beolab fronts (90 > 50 > 28 > 5 > 20s etc..) you can afford/accommodate and get the most discrete surrounds that suit your individual tastes. I would not worry too much about sonic matching of surrounds. They bring atmosphere first and foremost.

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Bang & Olufsen Powerlink RJ45 Splitter (3132047)

then RJ45 to RJ45 powerlink, or RJ45 to DIN powerlink in and out

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I agree. However, there are two issues I see. On one hand, knee-jerking to individual solutions into the app can lead to more problems, on the other, some issues can be annoyance and brand-diminishing until they are fixed. The last update (barring the new 2.5.3 which few have received) was November 22nd 2022. An update every month would be a good compromise?

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etype76 wrote:

I get it now. I just started all over again and see the + sign. It’s late so I’ll sort it out tomorrow. Thx Mr. 10 percent for pointing me in the right direction.

Our last replies just crossed over in the interweb.

Glad you have something to work-on. If you have issues – as I say, repost with some more info (and screen-shots) and I’ll try and help.

10

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etype76,

Its kinda difficult to help if you dont give as much information as you can with these configuration issues. It looks like your BL3s are connected.

Do you have listening positions setup? Have you ever run room-sense with the BL3s connected? If the answer is yes, re-post with more info and screen shots.

If no, then on the picture above in your last post, press “reconfigure Power link setup” and connect 2 x BL3s. Then go to listening positions and create “new”, start from scratch and follow instructions on running room-sense.

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The Theatre will recognise the number of powerlink connections connected. In my example, I have 4 “+”. If only connecting a single pair of BL3 with a splitter, you will show only 1 “+”.

Press the +, add a speaker.
Press the new +! Add second speaker

then follow instructions to set channels (music plays in each speaker), the follow room sense

 

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I’m on beta but no bite yet despite taking software auto on/off and rebooting.

I think Simon has an early bird unit, mine was commissioned a week later. May be by serial number or registration date roll-out until there are enough units on a higher version to prove stability?

just guessing.

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Hi,

I’ve just done a similar installation with 2 pairs of BL3 as front/surround height speakers.

2x15m flat CAT7 LAN cable,

1x5m CAT7 cable,

a CAT7 female coupler,

2x Bang & Olufsen Powerlink RJ45 Splitter (3132047),

4x RJ45 to DIN MK2 powerlink cables (2m)

all work fine

i found buying cheap RJ45 splitters from Amazon did not work at all. Needs to be the B&O flavour at £25 a pop!

 

 

 

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I have posted much on my system and 3rd Party equipment into the BL90s.

The issue comes down to perceived value (price, quality, usefulness etc) and how you wish to connect it?

1. Whatever you buy, connect directly to the BL5. Im very cynical that “beovisions” and “wide-body” Beolabs go together well sound-wise.
2. Do you want to connect via Analogue (RCA) or Digital (CoAx). There are pros and cons to each.
3. What are you listening to? Ripped music on a NAS, Hi-Res Streaming or something else?
4. Try and trial equipment at home if you can. The control systems (more often not iOS controlled) vary.
5. The BL5 may need the volume cable connecting and possibly a dedicated Beo4 for volume??

Equipment (from my experience)

1. BS Core. Currently EoL, full B&O integration but relatively poor in terms of streaming quality. Muffles the sound of the BLs like Beovisions
2. Auralic Altair G1. EoL but good bargains now. internal DAC and RCA Output, add a HDD, Killer app and takes Qobuz, amazon, Tidal (Spotify HiFi once released). I have a Altair connected to BL17’s. works fine.
3. Auralic Aries G1. Top quality. Digital Coax out, Wifi receiving Streamer. Otherwise as the Altair. Again, lots of bargains out there.

Highly recommend whatever you go for (Core/Auralic/Other), that you know the controls, operability’s and limitations. Almost anything at the cost of the BS Core or above…will blow the Core out of the water sound-wise with the “wide-body” Beolabs. Loss of integration is the price.

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