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I have always been an advocate for the Playmaker!
I only got rid of it for my main setup because the Essence MK2 took over its role there – I still have it connected to my V1-32 in the study with a Chromecast Audio dongle connected to its line-in.
It is an absolutely underestimated B&O device, that surely still can be used. However, mostly when I recommend it, I also recommend to use it hardwired – you never know how (un)stable peoples WiFi is!
Lately I helped someone, who has a Beosound Encore and wanted to stream/via Airplay and also to be able to connect his turntable there – this worked well!
Of course the Essence MK2 or the Core is a better alternative, but in many cases the Playmaker can do the job….and is cheaper.
MM
I am sorry to tell you that this probably can not be done JUST WITH SOME CABLES.
You could get stereo sound from your tv (unfortunately you do not tell anything about which one). The easiest way would be to use the headphone-out of the tv. You could even use more sets of Beolabs this way – you can daisy chain these (means the signal is send from one speaker to the next………of course using a cable).
Since there are different versions of the named Beolabs, you may have to use different cables – Steve from Soundsheavenly (as already mentioned) can help here….usually he answers rather quick, when you contact him via his website.
However, you won’t get more than 2 channel/stereo sound.
You mention ‘like a home theater‘, which would be multichannel/surround etc. For this you’d have to use some kind of A/V receiver – with preout connections – connected to the tv via HDMI.
Then you can connect the Beolabs and configure the setup in the receiver for movie/music. This again will require cables that matches your Beolabs.
All in all….we need more information on your wishes for the setup.
P.S. Welcome to Beoworld.
MM
+1 from me too for the use of the converter…..if you want a proper integration.
MM
If you have a Beo4 remote, you can open the A.Aux port with the A.Tape/A.Mem button.
MM
Hast du eine Idee, woran es liegen kann, dass die Soundqualität in den Linkräumen und teilweise im Hauptraum sehr schlecht ist? Über Radio ist sie Super. Habe den Sonos Port direkt an den Behringer angeschlossen. Wenn ich meinen Laptop anschließe, ist der Ton auch schlecht.
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Wie ist es schlecht?
Die Tonqualität an sich – oder ist es nicht laut genug?
Das Ausgangsignal (vom Beoport) sollte hoch sein – oder besser als ‘fixed line signal’ konfiguriert sein (siehe z.B hier:
Es kann natürlich auch an den Kabeln/den Verbindungen liegen – ist aber meisten nicht der Fall.
In den meisten Fàllen, wenn ich die Behringer USB Card installiert habe, ist es mit einem Plattenspieler zusammen. Da kann es schon mal vorkommen das das Signal von RIAA-verstärker zu schwach ist, und man deswegen die die Lautstärke der Anlage bzw der Linkräume etwas höher drehen muss.
MM
Und im Esszimmer kann ich A.Aux nicht direkt selber anstellen. Das geht an, wenn ich in irgendeinen anderen Raum A.Aux anstelle. Wenn ich in irgendeinen anderen Raum die Lautsprecher ausschalte gehen auch in jedem anderen Raum die Lautsprecher aus. Bei der Quelle Radio funktioniert alles einwandfrei.
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Wie ich es verstanden habe, benutzt du in den Linkräumen den MCL/Converter (Beolink Passive).
Dieser wird höchst wahrscheinlich nicht das Ir-Kommando A.Aux (direkt) verstehen können…..wegen eines älteren SW versions.
Das Austauchen des Eproms darin wird schwierig sein – vor allen Dingen weil es diese kaum noch gibt.
(Es mag sein das die neusten Versionen vom Beolink Passive A.Aux unterstützt – ich weiß aber nicht ab wann).
Da hilft nur der Umweg übers Einschalten im Hauptraum zuerst…….den du ja schon kennst.
Das Ausschalten vom gesammten Setup’s erfolgt wenn man den Ausschaltknopf (den roten runden) zu lange drückt. Bei einem kurzen Drücken sollte eigentlich nur der jeweilige Linkraum ausgehen (es sei den die Räume sind sehr dicht bei einander).
MM
R.E.M – New Adventures in Hi-Fi – 25th Aniversary Edition.
Listening to the 5.1 version (Blu Ray disc on OPPO player).
MM
If it has to be vinyl…
A while ago when I was changing something in my setup, I sold my Beogram 4500.
It took up pretty much space and for the few vinyl albums that I still have left, I prefered not to have that ‘on display’ in the main setup anymore.
I fetched an old Beogram 2022 from the attic , that had been in store for years and had a friend take care of it….works fine now.
It now is located in my study hooked up to an Essence MK2 and therefore listenable on the network.
So….I just listened to what you see in the picture in my main room.
One album on two disc – that gives you plenty of exercise, when you have to turn and turn and turn the record ?
MM
What a pity.
You don’t state which version of the BV7-40 you have – and also not where you are located.
In my experience it is not worth it to bother about repairing these old tv’s.
There are plenty of preused BV7-40’s out there at a very low price.
Swapping out the tv should be fairly easy.
Tip! If you buy it from a dealer, he should be able to upload the PUC codes, that you’d need.
MM
You’d not be the first to wish for this.
Lot of threads in the previous Beoworld versions.
As an example see here:
https://archivedforum.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/42470/352106.aspx
If you stay ‘stubborn’ long enough, you might find the solution 🙂
However, the easiest way – as already suggested – is to use the 1611 converter.
By the way….the Powerlink port (that you call DIN connection) is for connecting to a Beolink Wireless 1 in order to make the BL3500 a wireless link speaker.
MM
I’d definitely go for the PUC-controlling.
If you have an older Apple PUC entry in the tv, why not try that!
All you need is the ir cable and – of course – to configure the setup.
I am sure the basic functions will work.
Personally I use the latest entry and am totally happy with that – I have never used an original Apple remote (they always stayed unpacked in the box).
However, on a BV7 you will need a B&O technician to upload that into the tv.
Hint!
You can also use the (Apple) remote app on an iDevice – quite handy, when you have to have to search via writing….the iDevice will even promt you to use that (if both devices are in the same home network).I have no experience with the Logitech remote – from what I read, it is much too complicated….and why use that when you can use the Beo4. Furthermore, as far as I know the Logitech remotes are now EOL.
MM
I just listened to this new and very enjoyable release from Moby………the DTS-HD Master Audio 5.1 track
MM
That all depends on how the converter is configured.
You could start with reading one of the threads in the old forums – e.g. this one:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/16772/145937.aspx#145937
And the manual – can be found here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2021215/Bang-And-Olufsen-Beolink-Nl-Ml.html#manual
Would be nice to know which other Play speaker can work this way.
For obvious reasons you can not expand the inner ring with the M3…….but what about the M5, since it has more drivers?
MM
Thanks!
Would be nice to see the Halo in action with the 90/50’s – to see which benefits that would bringin real life.
MM
Seems that not all can see the pic/screenshot, that I postet previously.
Tried to convert (from png) to jpg – maybe that is better.
MM
The BS Encore is an ir-controlled products.
Be sure that the Essence remote supports ir modes (the first versions did not).
Then switch it to ir mode – see here:
Maybe this can help:
This is all I can find right now – maybe another member knows more.
MM
Now launched in the EU as well – available from the beginning of May.
https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/dk/earphones/beoplay-ex
Price is as with the EQ.
MM
Anything that has a datalink connection for the controlling.
See this article:
https://www.beoworld.co.uk/article_view.asp?id=64
Most common in use are the ‘pizza box systems’/6500-7000 or the BeoSystem 4500.
MM
Oh, well!
The price is equivalent to 375 €.
Will be interesting to see, when it will be released in the EU/UK….and if the price will be the same, which would be in the range of the current in-ears.
MM
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