Millemissen
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
-
That is a classical setup – I had it similar for many years.
The setup behaves as intended – you have two seperat amps/volume controls.
One in the BV and another in the 3500 to feed the linkroom….and therefore two independent volume controls.In case you add more MCL-based rooms, these will be dependent on each other, when you turn uo/down the volume there.
With a MCL2AV (and powered speakers/Beolabs) you then again would have a more independend volume control.
MM
Right!
However, the easiest way would be to use one of these:
Please notice that Steve is only shipping to the UK for time being – but the Behringer can be bought elsewhere….just do a search for it.
And…..if you want to connect more than one device, you’d need some kind of switch too.
As for the 2nd question – I remember back in the days, that I had a stock external USB drive connected….so yes that should work!
I would however, not recommend it – it will be much easier to use a PC/Mac for this, because you will have to tag the files properly in order to have these searchable and showing coverpics etc on the BS5.MM
Das hatte ich auch zuerst gedacht…..ich kenne das (Problem) von früher.
Jedoch war es mir nicht klar, daß die MK2 eine so hohe SW bekommen konnte, daß es die Navi/Joystick Beo4 unterstützt.
Aber schön, daß es jetzt geklappt hat.
MM
If the problem is only in one of the PL outputs – you wrote ‘the left most PowerLink port’ – you could try to use a powerlink splitter from the other one.
MM
I suppose that you have the Pentas connected to the BV…..and not/nothing to the 3500.
Am I right?
MM
Ausserdem fehlt bei Gen 2 die line-in Anschlußmöglichkeit.
Siehe auch:
MM
The Yamaha ns10 has a frequency range from 60 Hz to 20 kHz.
It is a studio monitor – supposed you use wo of these, you will get a much wider stereo seperation than with a BL 7-2.
The 7.2 is a totally different speaker, optimized for tv viewing, not so much for ‘hifi listening’.
MM
With the Encore you need a (DLNA compatble) server running somewhere on your network (on a NAS, a PC/MAC….) – this most be pointed toward the files collection in order to organize and make these visible for the Encore.
They easiest way, however will be to use your USB stick (or a small external HD) with the files.
When this is connected to the USB input of the Encore, this will take care of the handling.
Relatively easy!But you must tag your files resonably (including coverpics) and you will need to detach the stick/HD each time you want to add or change something.
The Encore can connect to your home network both wired and wireless.
Always use wired if possible.Furthermore – see here:
https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/SOUND_SYSTEMS/BEOSOUND_5_ENCORE/beosound5-encore_userguide_english.pdfMM
Looking at the background, I wonder how many ears you do have, Millemissen!
Two…..of course.
But it is with headphones just like with shoes.
You only have two feet, but you need several pairs for different purposes and occations.
Not talking about the overkill, that you some times see – not just with women – no, just for regular use ?
And some of these you keep and use for several years (at least if you buy good quality footwear).In the picture behind is a Grado (an entry level one), which I bought long ago – before B&O started getting into headphones again.
They are nice sounding and good to wear, but they leak sound, which can be annoying for those sitting nearby.When B&O then started with headphones again and made the H6 1st gen in 2013, I found what I had been looking for (…..so I thought).
I used the H6 a lot – still do, but not so much anymore.
However, as a take-with-you headphone it was too heavy – it is fine for at home.
I have never gotten into using the small in-ears, though I did try.
Instead I bought the H2….that is the one you see in the front in the picture above.
The H2 is light and sits comfortably – I often use it in bed when listening at night.Then came the era of the wireless on-ears.
When the H4’s – the 1st gen – came, I bought that (not in the picture).
The H4 is definitely the headphone that I use most, especially when I sit in the evening – my wife reading – and watch some YT videos on the iPad, listen to podcasts etc.
They are light and fits my head well.I know, I know…….there have been several B&O over-ear headphones since these were made.
But as I do not need any noice cancelling, gaming options etc, the H4’s are just fine for me.What you also do not see in the picture, is my Form 2 – the original one from 1986 – which I bought back then.
This now serves as the headphone on my desktop – not often used. It is light as a feather and is sounding resonably good.My original Earset A8 from 2000 – with the leather carrying case – now ‘belongs’ to my wife. They never did fit well in my ears.
They are a real gem, though!So now you know – even with just two ears you need more than one pair of shoes…..eh, pair of headphones ?
MM
Just to give you an overview!
Basicly there are two ways of doing this:
1: Use the new tv as a ‘dumb screen’ and have all devices etc connected to the BSys3.
This means that you will have to rely on the upscaling possibilities of the new tv.
You will have to turn on the tv either with it’s own remote or find a way to have it turning on to a default input….and off.2: Use the BSys3 as an audio processor (use the coax digital in on the BSys3) and use the built in apps/the connected external devices of the tv for all viewing.
You will only get lossy DD sound this way.
You might have to use the Beo4 and the original tv remote.As in the setups of Stoopie and Tignum there are some tweaks – however this is not easy and comes with trial and error…..’a steep learning curve’ as Stoopie wrote.
MM
I assume (from your first posting) that you have a BL Passive that drives the CX100 in the kitchen.
The CX100 are passive speakers – so you can basicly connect any other passive speaker set there. It is just a matter of the connection plugs/or bare wire.
However, have you had a closer look at the CX100?
The bas units/drivers maybe aren’t that fresh anymore.
This is a rather common thing with these old speaker and relatively easy to fix/get fixed.I have a set of CX100 in our kitchen too and I would not call the sound there ‘very, very thin/metally’ at all.
MM
I am only trying to work things out in the older link systems for now, but there also seems to be many interesting possibilities of integrating the old stuff with newer systems
There certainly is.
This is my old BS8 – I did use to have an iPad there, but since there hardly is any app left that works on the old OS, I did ‘think new’.
I have always been a fan of Dolly Parton 😉 – now I use it solely as a speaker.
I bought a second hand Essence MK2 and connected that to the line in of the BS8.
This way ‘my new BS8’ has become part of my (beolink) multiroom setup.
Furthermore I have a Beogram 1900 – which is far older than the BS8 – connected to the line input of the Essence box. This way I can – which admittedly happens very rare – listen to vinyl anywhere in the setup…..even in the last ML-based room that I have left (due to the NL/ML Converter and the BM6500 there).My old iPhone functions as a remote controller and as display for what is playing.
MM
Hi there, Has anyone on this forum integrated their beloved Beosound audio systems with a conventional home theater setup? Just curious if anyone has done this, and how they have set things up if they have. Thanks!
Actually I saw the post, but was not sure what to reply.
“integrated their beloved Beosound audio systems with a conventional home theater setup”.Usually “Beosound audio system” would mean a two channel aka stereo setup (unless we are talking about a Beosound Theatre).
I can’t imagine how a two channel B&O setup should be integrated with something like a conventional A/V receiver.
What would be the purpose/the function, that it should bring?So I’d like to know more about what is meant!
What does you/matapan expect to be able to achieve?MM
Hmmm!
Die MK2-version konnte nicht auf Navi umgestellt werden.Es sieht so aus, daß du das gemacht hast (<< drücken/halten), das ich auch so kenne.
Vielleich weiß ein andrer mehr – versuche doch mal deine Frage in englisch zu posten.
Damit erreichtst du weit aus mehr Leute hier.MM
Wie alt ist der 7-40/welche MK?
Es könnte sein, daß er auf Beo4/navi umgestellt ist.MM
Funny – I never though of becoming a Gold member just to be able to participate in the Prize Draw lottery.
I thought that this was just a bonus for the Gold members.I am pretty sure that there are several reasons for less and less Gold members.
There are overall very few members/people who constantly post on the forum nowadays.
The interest for B&O, new or oldschool however, is there…….no doubt.
But people have gone elsewhere – there are lots of facebooks groups, discord etc etc nowadays.
And most people expect advice, insight for free.Imo this is a sad development – places where people, who are interested in B&O can connect to each other, are getting more and more diverse…..it is not just the one place – Beoworld – as it was before, where people meet.
Unfortunately the fact that the forum sadly got corrupted – and that there was a time gap before the new version went online – meant that a lot of the previous members/contributors were lost.
People simply do not seem to know how well the new forum has become – and they do not realize that the knowledge of Beoworld is searchable for anyone (unlike what excists in closed FB groups etc).
Why not just have one yearly Prize Draw – and prizes don’t have to be expensive……you certainly should not have to pay yourself.
It might be possible to have something sponsored.
I am sure that those who are willing to pay for a Gold membership/have the spare money will continue to do so.As you also suggested above….it might be necessary to find other ways to finance Beoworld – Patreon and alike could be a way to go!
Anyway, something needs to be done – not just for the sake of the Prize Draws, but to keep Beoworld alive.I will also express my huge thanks to you and to Keith for all that you have done in the past and still do.
We should be grateful that you have explained, what it means to run a free forum…..not many of the more frequent posters/members know about this.MM
If possible, I´d like to eliminate the BS9000 and connect the chromecast (with a more simple device in between if necessary) directly to the speakers. Can this be done?
You can use the BS Core (or the older BS Essence Mk2, if you can get one).
These are network streamers and have native support for Chromecast and more.
You can easily connect your BL8000 there (although a small adapter cable (RJ45 to DIN Powerlink).
This can be controlled in multiple ways – the Beoremote One, the Bang & Olufsen app just to name a few.
If you use Chromecasting, you just pick the device in the music app of your choice, press play and the playback will start immediately.MM
…. I read once, while ago that candidates for a Ferrari had to demonstrate their skills in driving… Harsh, but in some way, true.
If similar would be the case for ’B&O drivers’, the company would soon be bankrupt.
MM
……über den Mini DIN am BV11 und AUX über das BC 2300. Somit konnte ich die Quellen des BC2300 am BV-11 einfach nutzen und bedienen. Der BV-11 sendete damit die Befehle an das BC2300, das in Option 0 war. VG
Das man so den Ton vom BC am BV11 hören kann, ist lange bekannt – dafür gibt es ein Adapterkabel vom B&O (und auch von SteveSoundsHeavenly glaube ich).
Wie der BV11 – wie du schreibst – Befehle an das BC2300 senden kann, ist mir neu!Kann du etwas mehr dazu sagen – ist dein Adapter etwas anderes als der Originaladapter – wie unterscheiden diese sich?
N.B. Ich weiß daß der Adapter auch für einen B&O Videorecorder (Scartanschluß) benutzt wurde. Hängt es vielleicht damit zusammen?MM
