matador
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I think 2 and 3 requires even more black boxes
It’s the Danish Mafia dealers: put a finger and soon you’ll loose your arm!
Oui, bon ben moi je suis pas français et je me relis quand même. Et puis je sais aussi que la dyslexie et les fautes d’orthographe ou l’absence chronique de ponctuation n’ont absolument rien à voir.
Pas de panique ! j’en fais aussi des fautes et mon anglais (qu’on le veuille ou non, langue majoritaire sur ce forum, quelles qu’en soient les catégories) est certainement très proche de votre français.
Bref…
could be so useful for something …
I once heard that 1, is Masterlink mode, 2 is Nespresso mode and 3 is Dyson mode, but I’m not really sure, the guy and me were really drunk at the time.
I don’t think I need one …
Really? I believe that this “1-2-3” switch is already hitching you, right?
Maybe your cable was not correctly wired, it happens sometime, even to the best of us.
Beo4 has nothing to do in that case, it is not “configurable” appart from link/regular.
Please, also watch your French spelling, it really hurts.
If you read the whole thread you will not need the video.
Also, search “Beolab 8000” in this forum and the previous and you’ll find plenty of useful information about dismantling, cleaning, servicing Beolabs 8000.
Then, if you still have any question, please feel free to ask.
Actually the original goal was to replace the original 4/5AA with AAA rechargeable batteries now they can be rated up to 1100mA.
But the problem is somewhere else: The remotes behave randomly as soon as they’re not powered with the original battery pack. Conclusion, the thermal resistor may be the culprit because volts are volts and Amperes are Amperes, right.
But it’s always the same story: when it do not work you start to think you “may” ave touched something that creates at failure and the battery problem may have turned into a remote problem.
Thank you for chiming in…
I Gave up. In the last attempt the Golden Beo6, command center of everything in the living room, was not even turning on.
Moral of the story: they are Wonderfull remotes, but relying on it nowadays is a gamble you’ll never win.
Sad.
Hi and welcome to Beoworld,
I can’t tell about the CX50 but if you’re looking for consistency, you should look around for a Beomaster 5000/5500/6500 or 7000. Those are the amps that are part of the Beosystem with same numbers, They’re often called “pizza box” because of their design. I dont know all the Beomasters some may or not have integrated RIAA preamp, I don’t know.
The 5000 is the oldest and is quite difficult to service but its a beautiful beast and sound very good. It also need a specific remote that could be a little bit too much if you dont need the whole system. The 5500 may sound a little bit duller (mine did compared to my 5000), the other I don’t know. Some have different finishes (mat silver, silver, white, black…)
For the speakers, depending on the amp you choose, you may also want to look for the Beovox (passive) 3000/4500/5000 and their Beolab (active) counterpart with same numbers. They are panel speakers and their Mondrian style should match the pizza box design.
Hope this helps.
Random observations. I dont know if this is relevant or even useful.
I’m measuring the battery out with a voltmeter.
The remote is on the 400mA dock. It is stuck in a loop:
Starting > Fading > turning off > starting again and so on…When starting the voltage goes up to 2,7 volts.
When fading the voltage decrease slowly down to 2,1 volts.
When the remote turns off the voltage seems to go steady around 2,4 volts.
Ad lib.The screen shows “charging“.
If I disconnect the dock, the remote goes off, the voltage goes crazy between 2,4 and 2,1 volts for a couple of seconds before going steady at 2,45 volts.
If I remove completely the battery, the remote also loops and still shows “charging“.
So I’m unable to say if the battery is dead or the remote can’t see any battery for whatever internal reason. Plugin in a “fresh” battery pack changes nothing so I’m prone to believe its more a remote related issue but then the questions would be:
1 – Why so suddenly? Is there a sensitive component that could be damaged when opening the remote to change the battery? I think we would have heard of it and the Service Manual doesn’t mention any specific procedure.
2 – In three remotes the same way? C’mon…
It didn’t work.
The Beo6 Is still out of battery even thought it was docked for hours and the battery was healthy before the “incident”.
That’s three of four Beo6 that show the same symptom and that’s only because I’ve not tested the fourth one.
The only common history they all share is that they have been teared down and up again many times. Is it possible that it was a sensible component about power management that may be hurt in the process? The service manual or the BW replacement procedure article say nothing about a specific thing care of.
Hi,
Another problem, but still Beo6 battery related. Today, my beloved an trustful Beo6, heart of the living room, started to show a problem: some keys did’nt emit anymore.
In the end it was some sort of config corruption and the easy way would have been to set the remote to standard config via the internal menu and then back to the the custom config.But before I knew that I did the usual: opening, checking, trying to swap the keyboard, etc.
In short I openend the remote disconnected all and connected it all back.The key are working again but the remote is not charging anymore, the battery last a few seconds before going off. I would say like if it was no battery at all but the remote is working for a few seconds when left from the base. Even when on the base, using the remote also drain the battery immediatly leading to a reboot.
The power on this remote is really a mystery to me… Any hints?
Very common IR board fault. Two capacitors to change. Follow the guidelines in the link provided by Guy above.
I’d like to add that, to me, the most obvious problems just that it is… Ugly!
The 72-22 was very nice: mat silver, dark wood, always sexy Beolab 18, whatever ridiculous the price was, the system is beautiful.There, it is just… Ugly. And as far as I can tell but I’d like to have your views on that, This color scheme do not make me think me to any Scandinavian dawn.
Beolab 28 with tweed like fabric? Really?
Beovox “something” in the very mind-puzzling movie “The Father”.
I have had hard time trying to find to what they are connected. Found some hints but not sure:
A Beosystem 5000 behind the table? Maybe…
Or perhaps the Beosound Century MK2 seen in the mirror?
Because I know it can’t be the Beolit 12 in the kitchen, right?
Hi everyone, Hi Steve again,
I don’t share Steve’s enthuthiasm (and he very well know why, right?).
Whoever Beoworlder coud make “almost” the same set for the fraction of the price; most of the money economy being in a forum-guided-beogram-4002-refurbishement-project, up to everyone to choose his own components. My choice was an original BG4002 because I like the color (loved the 4000c in his champaign color promo pictures but real life yellohish pictures proved to be too much “nicotine*” to me), Beolab 8000 over Beolab 18 because its all I can afford and a 70€ Playmaker and some Powerlink wires instead of a Core, Emitter and whatever else.
The result may not be Hi-Fi or two-point-zero but I’m listening to records with the eye candy.
I remember Leo or maybe Moxx, ironically saying “new beoplay=new colors”. I feel the same here and it’s sad for me. Not that I dont understand people that will go for it, they surely will and its good for them and for the brand (moneywise). But sad in the idea that they sold us (the few of us) an idea that was “we’re going to recreate many of our iconic products, wait and see”. I remember a thread in BWII where people where guessing what would be the next “recreated” products, part of the new “recreation” program. In the end it’s just the Beoplay, new colors strategy. Nothing more. Up to anyone to like it or not.
But to be complete, the exercise, yes, would have to have ginger colored wired! 😉
