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sorry I made a mistake
I think you did not.
Beoworld is a dying forum relying on the good will and personal money of founders to stay afloat.
unless you really betray some sort of legal arrangement with somebody, I don’t see this like an error.
some members are right, B&O makes us happy with good or less good products, it’s always a storm here But beside that what do we really owe to the brand ? Money? Done. Passion? Done. Loyalty? Done. I believe we can chat about rumors and leaks they are responsible for.
where were they when Beoworld was (is) suffocating, dying? What will be the next step? Don’t say evil about beolab XX? Don’t talk about recurring flaws in the app? Don’t give tips on repair because that will be our next « recreation »?I’ve already said it: B&O should send their lawyers against compagnies that make copies and plague the market, not enthusiastic little boys that are excited by the next product and will anyway buy it the loud price.
even more. If B&O feel threatened by your original post, they must really concentrate on engineering, creativity and security matters. Because I don’t see any unbelievable revelation in that. What? Satellites for thé 6000€ théâtre? Really? Beoworld shoul sur them because I remember we have talk again tha way before everyone else.
no you did not made a mistake. And no, as a sophomore moderator, I disagree with Allstate happened.thank you for reading. And delete if needed.
I don’t suppose you would mind sharing the file?
Of course I would! Weird it didn’t did it already…
Here it is.
The ability to make something 50+ years old still relevant today…
I understand perfectly. Unfortunately, with the end of the FM band and the short broadband of the receiver (“my” stations are past 105 MHz) the only relevant use I’ve found is decoration. Hope you’ll find better to do with it.
Hi.
I’ve tried in the past to “bluetooth” various things: a Beosystem 10, a Beolit 707 and a Beocom 6000 at least. All this is documented on the old forum.
The Beosytem 10 ended up being airplay-ed.
For the 707, I use an USB receiver and a slim powerbank. It did work and was “useable”.
But the thing was that the sound was very bad.
– Dumb assumption – I believe the speaker was meant to emphasis common frequency from radio or music from that time and now when you feed it with whatever modern sound (not music, sound) it just sounds hollow. Absolutely no benefit appart the pleasure of the game.
Anyway, now what I want is to find a cheap, dead, not reparable 707 and a Beoplay A2 in the same condition and just tuck the last into the first.
For what it worth the BS10 Airplay attempt ended up the same: sounds hollow, flat, better find a bargain con a Beolit 12: just what I did !
Hope this helps.
Hi Mads,
I must confess I’m a little bit lost here, All those pin to pin voltage do confuses me.
On question thought: did you manage to get the BL3500, working as it should with the WL1?
That mean having it wirelessly connected to a master link master and having the WL1 starting the 3500?I always feel a little bit “away” of that kind of talk because first I don’t think I have the right ears, ans then because I never know how well are the electronics of my stuff.
That said…
I’ve experienced the well know difference between BM5000 and BM 5500: BM 5000 is “fuller” and “round”. BM5500 is like “average”.
I’ve used a lot a BM1001 which I love: impressive round bass (I’ve heard about a so called “loudness effect” on that receiver…), sounds clear, perfect to my tastes and for the “demo”, analog and digital. When it felt ill I had to replace it with a BM901.
I love the 901: beautiful sleek design and it performed so well that when the 1001 came back, it was difficult to go back. So it will always be a secret love.A borrowed BC7700, as expected same signature that the BM5000.
All those with S45-2 or P50. I’m now in a 1990-2000 mood but that were a good time…
Hi,
You should do a search in the old forum. There, you’ll find a topic drove by a certain CB.
On this topic and some others, you’ll find a lot of answers and if I recall correctly something about http and https adresses.
That should be a good start.If you get no helpful answers from this, you should know that in worst case scenario, your Essence will act as a playmaker, which means an expensive (at the time) Airport Express base, with the addition of an auto sense line in, but with the down side of no remote control.
Let us know how what you did with it.
Unfortunately it does not react on any buttons.
It seems to be a common IR board issue. The Beolab do not “see” the IR beam.
I think I’ve read somewhere that the solution it’s the usual two caps replacement, easy, but the problem is accessing the board that implies a deep dismantling IIRC.I seen somewhere on the forum that beolink converter 1611 might be a solution?
It will not be a solution to your IR problem but it will make the use of your BL3500 more convenient (once you solved the IR problem). The topic is well documented somewhere in the forum. Do a search with 1611.
Hi Steve,
Congratulations on your choice to go after a Shape. To me it’s one of the good old fashioned B&O magic things like ib the past even thought it has no glass moving parts.
I do not own one but have thought about it many times and to be honest in many ways (mystery…). Anyway, while waiting for a more educated answer here is some of my thought:
One thing that struck me is that the Shape is bigger than expected in real life. The individual tiles are massive and bigger than I thought. If your thinking rubout it for a long time you should be ware of this but still, don’t let yourself be surprised: going 8 tiles over 6 may really be 2 tiles too much.
Colors is a matter of taste. I do think that part of beauty lies in contrast but all the Shapes installations I’ve seen I’ve liked were mostly shade on shade. You said the wall is white, but for a clean installation you will need to make a groove to pass wires, meaning you’ll certainly need to paint after. Even if not, painting a wall is quite cheap. I would consider installing a Beosound Shape as it should be: like a piece of art, that is considering the tiles AND the wall and the surrounding environnement.
I’ll stay away from mixing fabrics, they away different grain and that would immediately make it look like a mix and match, second hand, not coordinated thing.
I would also think it twice on the dark oak tile: even if I like it too, I think it ruins the “Shape effect” by saying “under this tile there is something different than under the fabric tiles so this is a sound installation”. And wood ,appart on the floor, tends to be a very fashion turning material.Things I would you depending on what you have at hand:
• Use extensively the Shape simulator on the B&O website (Sure you have!).
• Use a projector if you have one, to display the configuration, including colored wall on your actual wall.
• Print fake tiles on A3 paper, stick them on the wall, let them for a couple of days and see.
• If you’re handy at Photoshop, make simulations.Hope this helps, lucky guy you are!
Hi,
Plug them, enjoy them…
Unless you home has a very specific wiring, meaning the opposite of a carefully and perfectly crafted network, and different from our common home where live and neutral colors are mixed somewhere in a wall, I doubt you’ll risk anything.
Yes I had a broken coil and managed to repair it.
To be honest the break was quite obvious but there is a chance that yours will be too.And for every weak sight there is a loupe somewhere, just find yours!
(Actually very cheap Chinese led light loupe googles, they help a lot!)Hello and thank you would have been welcome when you ask for help.
That being said, there is no way to retrieve a missing pincode as far as I know.Things you can try:
– if your device came with papers, look for a 4 figure number handwritten somewhere.
– If your friendly with a B&O dealer, talk with him to see if he agrees to help you.
– Talk with seller. It may be impossible but it should be more possible than guessing the right pincode out of the blue.Hi Pommeyard and welcome to Beoworld.
You are righ, seized woofer is a quite common issue wit some Beovox speakers.
The good news is that this is reparable: not easy but not that hard too.Seized woofer doesn’t means the coils are broken for sure.
Lost for lost I would take out the woofers, check for continuity and do a search on this forum with something like “P50”. You should find a step by step repair guide with some quite very good pictures and perfectly phrased frenglish explanations.Beside the fact that finding similar woofers could be difficult or need another pair of S45 that would then end in trash too (the donor problem…), reparing woofers is a very rewarding task, really.
Let us know…
It is now done.
I’ve Ravsted, great work.
What happen when you put on a standard TV the contrast glass from the BV.
Does it change something? In good or comes with some trade-off?Thanks.
Thank you to the people offering ideas in a pleasant way and no thank you to the people who are going out of their way to attack me.
Thomash,
I’ve been there too. Beoworld people can sometimes look or sound harsh. I’ve felt myself excluded from a closed circle of “knowing people”. But what I learned is that sometimes when, as you did through your experiments, look able to sort it out by yourself, members won’t interfere. They let you dig and dig and dig again and find out until you’re really stuck and then they show up with respect and good willing.
Long time since I’ve seen a post from Dillen more than one line. He told you “You have already achieved more than most owners could/would.”. Trust me, its a golden badge.
Purpose of Beoworld (as I see it) is not to repair your stuff for you. It is to teach you how to repair any stuff. Sometimes it hurts, yes. But in the end its really rewarding.
Your Deck is a gem, everybody told you that. Get it up and working!
See this as an “bizutage” in French.
Welcome to Beoworld.
