matador
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
-
Hi Jim,
Regarding prices I would not be a good source of information. I live in Paris and the second hand market in local ads is crazy, you can find a Beovision MX for free one day, and the other day another add with the same TV around 400€. There is currently a Beogram 4002 @ 2500€.
The eyes are rare, so rare that when I sold a beosystem 3 to a Swiss guy, he did send me his own IR eye for me to check the BS was working and I had to send it back, luckily with the Beosystem 3. So do the math: somebody want to sell one, he knows there is “Bang & Olufsen” printed on it, he looks for similar ads, he don’t find any then he puts a high price! Easy.
But I also know that depending on countries this rules do not ever apply. Each time I hear about second hand bargains on the forum I say to myself, “why do I not live in that country”!
Regarding your boxes, It don’t looks like B&O to me but I never opened that kind of box, so I don’t know for sure.
Good luck.
To me the only thing preventing the PM to be “future proof” is the lack of support for 5 Ghz wifi. In my case this is not a problem because wifi works well and must stay 2,4 Ghz to allow standalone wifi speaker compatibility and sensitive connections are hardwired.
The ability of using it as a tiny basic Audiomaster is perfect to use a spare pair of Beolab.
I too thought of using a playmaker for TV, but the main problem is the lack of audio output in modern TVs. Of course you can use any audio extractor but I hate to have a collection of boxes and PSU behind the TV.
As for Airplay 2, You’re right, it may be a major downside. But when you’re streaming from a computer, it’s not a problem in since you can add and select many Airplay 1 devices.
Thanks for your kind words.
Thank you Geoff for your answer, I was just worried my question became “invisible” with new topics coming along…
I adjusted the piece around the bass port tube, but what I don’t understand is isn’t the V shaped piece (the one just below the entry tube one) preventing the air coming from the woofer movement going through the bass port?
Actually I did “feel” that something is coming from the bass port by getting closer to the sounding speaker, but I’d like to understand the rough theory behind this since the original foams and the replacement are not alike at all.
Below, the foam kit guide…
Thank you Geoff.
Excuse me but after thinking it twice, I’d like to be sure I’ve understood well:
Are you saying the rendering is more affected by the height of the driver than the wall making some kind of reflector or resonator that compensante the box thinness?
Is that right ?
A very interesting thread on the new old forum , unfortunately not giving the actual solution but that still gives hope…
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/6704/60185.aspx#60185
Hi alls,
Got the same problem here. The Century is a wreck beyond repair (CD, tape, door, one channel dead… And no IR) For the love of the game I’d like to play with this IR problem!
Its a mixed MK: silver clamper but no headphone socket, Type 2656.
Have tried the activation sequence with no result, I would have said “broken IR board”.
Checked the only big capacitor (purple, in the picture), it’s OK. The other two little are like SMD, with no pins, so I won’t mess with them.A guy is selling (way too expensive) an ir board but the thing is it’s not the same than mine.
Mine:
His:
Absolutely nothing in common. And that makes me wonder if the fix that consist in replacing caps does apply to my board and people really replace those two tiny little capacitors.
Thanks.
Hi,
To me, it looks like a specific system based on modified B&O hardware.
Usual sockets are DIN for Powerlink and a large connector that looks like a wide Ethernet plug for Masterlink. The IR eye plug is the original.
Googling a little bit shows that Otrun is a brand that makes TV system for hotels. To what extend they can be integrated in a classic B&O network and for what, I don’t know.
Members who have the original boxes may help you to compare them with your hardware and maybe, luckily, it would just be a matter of plugs.
In all cases you have a handfull of IR eyes which is very valuable: the boxes, even original B&O are cheap, but the IR eyes are quite rare and often more expensive.
Good luck with all this and you nice project!
Just to be clear, and add to possible answers…
There is the DIN input that I believe to be a service input only, never meant to be use as it.
There is the masterlink input (large rectangle socket) that is THE usual input. It is analogue but it need some dark digital protocol to be started.
Assuming this is right, I’m with you, how couln’t we just keep the beolab with one or the other input as default? Even more, use the Masterlink port on any device as an additional Aux in? Even if it needs to short anything inside.
I really think they are more Beolab 3500 unused than Beolab 3500 used as link room speaker… So sad.
I agree Guy, my wife also complains, not about the screen size but actually the captions that are too small and of course a BV10-32 would be ideal but they’re not so common around and quite expensive (between 500 and 800€).
Thank you for correcting me Guy.
I suspected a reason why you didn’t talk about that menu but tried anyway.
I must say that the day my BC6 will fail, it will be a big loss.
I have Beocenter 6-26 so it may be work differently.
AV3 is set to an input selectable with an hard key (V.MEM maybe, can’t say because I use a blind Beo6 now, sorry…). Then the HDTV option below is set to DVI.
I remember that even when I was using a Beo4 It didn’t never required to use the LIST key.
I even remember it was an AV Beo4 because I used that key to start the BV as a speaker with the picture muted.Hope this helps.
As far as I know the answer is No.
That’s an old quest to turn a BL3500 into a standalone speaker or a sort of Beosound 35.
I wanted this for myself very hard, finding the form factor quite interesting.
But there is no easy solution: you need either a specific Beolink converter or a remote key sequence that you nee to enter each time you turn on the speaker. The only “easy” way I can see is using a Beo 5/6 with a macro.But I asked Steve from Sound Heavenly the same question you are now and he also told it wont work at all if you have another B&O device that accept IR commands in the same room which was my case.
I asked the forum once if it was no other solution involving dismantling and soldering: I get no answer.
I wish you luck in your search and this item to be hacked one day.
B&O has made many nice stands. Like for the BeoVision 1. Most of them will go to scrap with the old TVs now.
Hi,
I personally would not play with a Beovision 1 stand for a Beosound 9000. In the BV1 the stand the pole is centered to the floor disc making to much “overhang” (?) and making the whole thing unstable. I would stick with stand with the pole on the border.It’s not that crazy idea, floor stand for Beosound 9000 are quite expensive here in France, around 400€, when at the same time, some Beovision could go for around 150€ with a stand that looks like the same. I thought of that when I wanted one and asked me the same question. I barely remember another member wanted or tried this, mounting the Beosound horizontal on a BV stand.
Having said that, different notes:
- First the footprint is not the same, around 40 cm for a BV6 disc, 35 cm for a BS9000. It looks like small difference but when you have them on floor it looks odd, even more when the height will not be shorter, it makes the whole thing looks like smashed, less elegant.
- The floor stand for the BS9000 is not only a base and a pole, it’s a whole thing with more details than it seems and that make your Beosound looks neat from whenever you look at it, side, front, back, top. it has a plate on the back on the unit, all the grooves to hide all the wires, The top of the pole is beautifully beveled. It can even stand in the middle of the room and look clean from any side. A BV stand will need (unless you have special skills and you spend a lot of money) some tricks that will always look like tricks. Its not important when its about hanging any TV on a BV stand, but in that case, you miss the beauty of the thing.
- All the electronics that allows the stand to turn after receiving orders from the remote is in the Beovision. No Beovision and you just have a stand with a dead motor and a wire with no use at all. Some members have worked hard to hack the system and I believe there is (was) a commercial solution somewhere sometime ago. But in the end it’s not an easy task and it will always require an additional box to be hidden behind the 9000.
- I can’t see the point of turning a BS9000 on his stand. Honestly, most of the time, I can’t see the point of turning a TV on his stand but it’s another talk. In the case of the Beosound 9000, having it standing in a room with it’s beautiful perfectly adapted stand while attract more sight, comments and respect that having it roughly adapted to a useless turning stand.
I allow myself to do all those comments you maybe don’t want to hear but it’s because I’ve been there before. I’ve chased for years a BS9000 floor stand and searched for any DIY alternative. I understand and would think about any DIY alternative for a wall mount or a table stand (actually it should be some plans for a very cheap but very effective table stand somewhere in the new-old forum), but for the floor stand, really my advice would be to do what I painfully did: wait for a bargain somewhere and jump on it when it come. With only one warning: if you buy one second hand, be sure to check all the pieces are there, especially the screws and the washers.
Hi Guys, It’s done, at least for one speaker.
The other one will wait a bit since this is not a really pleasant experience.
That will also allow me to compare Both speaker with new and old foam.Starting point: the Beolab with stand and fret off and obviously the new set of damping material.
Then take out the screws off: 6 for the amplifier plate, 12 for the speaker plate. All the same.
You need to cut the rubber border use to damp the fret between the two front plates. Use a sharp knife.
The plates are still firmly glued to the pipe. Insert a flat screwdriver and gently pry off the plate. Then progress to the bottom. I used two very useful little tools Thant came with a garden tinsel from a Scandinavian well known brand to open up the two plates, one side after the other.
Disconnect all that should be:
- One big socket between speaker plate and amplifier plate. (white/blue/red).
- One big socket (main power/Yellow) between the amplifier board and the cone.
- Two little connectors between the amplifier board and the cone (3 and 4 wires).
Beware, there is also a third tiny connector much larger (7 or 8 wires), you can disconnect it but it loops from the cone into the cone. Don’t mistake it for the one that must be disconnected and pull the plate while it is still attached.
Once everything disconnected, take out the plates: amplifier first, then speaker
Here start the mess! Use gloves.
Foam to be removed is located:
- Just above the cone.
- One the amp board, between the actual amplifier chip and the main board.
- In the gap between the speaker zone and the amplifier zone.
- One big piece in the speaker tube.
The big speaker piece was in my case quite well, sticky and chewy but I was able to remove it easily in one part.
All the other parts were in an advanced state of disintegration, turned into a sticky dust spread all inside the column. You’re happy when you manage to take out a big piece!.
Even the foam sealing between the pipe and the plates is rotted. you need to rub it to clean it.
The pipe was vacuum cleaned with the help of alcohol (90°, no isopropyl here in France).
The amplifier board was opened after disconnecting the plugs and cleaned with a brush and alcohol.
To me this is the most scary part: I don’t like rub a brush on those PCB with so tiny component. I’m not confident enough to know if this is ok or not and I’l afraid of breaking something or hurting a component. SO I did this carefully with a brush and a vacuum cleaner, take out the most of it but after this, it still remain some sort of sticky touch all over the parts. I think it still better the before.
Before screwing the amplifier board to the Amplifier plate, you need to replace the foam between the chip and the board.
Then clean all the connectors, the speaker socket was particularly dirty.
Then you can start the actual foam replacement. Note that the new set has nothing in common with the previous.
Around the bas port entry.
In the column, roughly in the middle behind were the woofers are.
At the base (rear).
The V shaped one at the bottom of the long strips just above the amp section.
Close the speaker panel and watch out for the speakers wires to go into the foam groove of the V shaped piece.
Correct placement of the foam pieces is are illustrated below. They should make a coffin for the two woofers.
Then, place the amplifier board, plug everything that need to:
- One plug between amplifier plate and speaker plate.
- 3 or 4 plugs between amplifier plate and cone.
Before closing the amplifier plate, add the remaining front base foam piece.
Close the speaker, tight all the screws (18) and check your new foam root proof Beolab 8000!
Hope this helps.
