matador
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that looks like it has about 11 MCL transceivers
Remove them carefully, sold them for a little or give them away to someone that will need them (I did tears ago…), and move on.
Those things are good things to anyone who like them. For anyone coming from the “non-B&O world”, what you have doesn’t worth the hassle to understand it…
… Unless there is something more in the closet!
Had this once. Somebody replied with the “boot” sequence of a CD Mechanism. In short as far as I recall, if the laser don’t focus the motor will not spin.
The best technique to perform a deep clean is to do a search on this very same forum!
Tell us how it went.
then ‘boom’, it just died.
that’s the way death happens: it’s alive and then ‘boom’, it’s dead!
Try a deep clean of the lens first, in the process look at the eye reference and then report.
To answer the basic question of the title of the topic, trimmers are the variable resistors used to, in that case, adjust the idle current.. Find the service manual, the process is detailed and almost possible to anybody with a multimeter.
The beomaster 5000 is a complicated piece but it really worth working on it.
Godspeed.
I Stobbie,
Could you tell us where you get your batteries? Unfortunately all, I’ve tried an various Beo6 led me to no charging or very short (few seconds) battery lifetime. Even after reprogramming and with wifi turned off. So far I suspect a problem with the thermistor or worse with some weak component on the power circuit on the remote side but really I don’t know. And I also doubt all my four Beo6 would have the same defect.
Thanks.
Also it is VERY IMPORTANT to note, the Beo6 does not charge very well when connected to the USB on th PC. Make sure it is fully charged before to connect it to the PC.
I would say this is the major issue with Beo 5/6: powering.
If your remote battery is fine, which will be rare nowadays, no problem.
But if it is weak or old, whatever you do will be complicated and useless.
I own a lot of these remotes and “pretend” to know how to use and program them.
The problem is just that their battery management is so mysterious they dont work for more the a couple of seconds.AFAIK, no answer was given anywhere on that matter.
Sad to say but to me Beo 5/6 are dead.
All those question are answered and well documented in this forum or the old one (see archived forums).
Please make the effort to look at it and then come back and share you own experience.
Godspeed.
If you have time and are willing to investigate please take care on that “sporadic” scheme : He also told me that his Beosound read some discs and always refuse some others, whatever where they are placed. So maybe your sporadic behavior his related to some specific discs and therefore something can be learned from this. Thank you.
Unfortunatly, My brother in law told me today that the deep cleaning of his Beosound 9000 laser was not “that” successful. Maybe I’ve overestimated the cure it could be.
Would like to have said something better.
@matador is there a specific way to mount these speakers on a wall? I’ve searched but can’t find any specific info on brackets, fixings etc.
Hi Mr Roast.
This is the very first question I had before having my pair, see the start of this thread.
I think there is an installation guide around that basically says: if you’re installing them in a lower fashion, use the top holes (wedged back against the wall, speakers tilted, woofers facing upward). If you’re installing them in a upper fashion, use the mid and lower holes (flat back against the wall, speakers parallel to the wall, woofers firing front).
The other thing is if they sounds on a wall better than by themself. I’m not golden hear, but I’ve tried on the floor, against a wall, on a sort of stand, vertical and horizontal and to me they always have sound, euuuuh, let me find the word… ah yes ok, that one: AMAZING!
The glue I’ve used is two component epoxy glue, Araldite maybe or whatever know brand but nothing specially selected. The first that I found by that time.
Hope this help. Please keep us informed!
If sound, operation and backlight of the panel are OK, then a BV10-32 has almost always a defective Pcb. 15 MEMC (Part 8005458) and not a defective Panel. This module is responsible for the image feed to the panel.
Ok, sounds like good. What would this mean in terms of reparability?
I’m ignorant in that matter but I suppose any TV has a module that is responsible for the image feed to the panel. So would it be possible to replace the electronic from there? Dont know if I’m clear…
The 3D models for the project are available to download in the first post. It’s written in bold and can easily be seen (I’ve stopped counting the numerous PM I receive asking for the STL’s).
So, just download them and have them printed by a friend or a printing service.
Just DON’T BUY THEM. Someone as open a B&O shop just near where I leave and is selling the clamps I designed and that are available here for free without any added value.
Good luck for your project.
Enough for now!
By respect, I agree.
given that the maker of these products was more or less banned from this forum.
If I remember correctly, the maker of this product was openly advertising for his product to be sold without kindly asking to the forum runners. Absolutely nothing to do with this unless it would be an underground noise with B3OHACK3R selling his box under the hood in PM, which I doubt.
I think there are commercial software solutions available that can act as a airplay sender. For example the one for Windows that can send audio to any airplay enabled speaker.
Yes, I know about software, computer based solution. They are not convenient at all.
Not practically, or event environmentally: having a computer running to airplay a 33′, really?The Arduino or similar are not easy for anybody, as you perfectly said it.
This is a thing I never understood: why nobody made a little black box to stupidly airplay broadcast any analogue signal, even under the coat. The same way I’ve never understood why nobody made the same thing for light control.
Anyway, I wish you good luck with your project and in any case it made that forum shiver again and only this is a beautiful achievement. Welcome to Beoworld B3OHACK3R.
In my view your “Private Project” has great commercial potential.
I would not turn this very interesting and funny and promising topic into a political marketing oriented discussion: B3OHACK3R, we need people like you or Pilatomic or that guy who’s stuck a full digital gateway into an old white Beomaster 6500, or also Beolover who made all 4000’s remote controllable… People that make our old things ready for the present and even maybe the future.
BUT…
I would not say “the project has great commercial potential”.
My point of view is we, core B&O clients, are dinosaurs and sorry to be blunt, we’re all dying. This is truly a niche product. Just look at the grumpy cat, he already made clear that he’s happy with his ML/NL solution, people who participate to this topic are only “bidouilleurs” (can’t find the english word…) and most people that would be interested in this will not invest in a solution that looks like “reverse engineered (no offense in this). Quite ironic when you think they would certainly invest 3 or 4 time more money into a less versatile solution but officially coming from B&O.
As an example I would use the Lintronic example or even OneRemote. I would not say their businesses are flourishing, I even believe that Lintronic dropped if not the whole lineup at least whatever is B&O related.
We, all of us, between us, trying to pushing limits, like all the members I named but also Madskp, Guy, and in their own way, Dillen, Steve, Sonavor and some I’m forgetting, but to the extend to say “it’s a business that has potential…”, in my dumb opinion, no.
Just ask Lee…
Hi, B3OHACK3R.
That’s seems indeed very cool and beautifully made. For once, the box is stylish and everything looks so professional, even the main board, for a personal “why not” project.
Then just take Millmissen suspicions as a compliment!That said, it seems you have all the knowledge to make something a lot of people want since forever: just a simple Airplay emitter that will link say à whatever Beogram to an airplay speaker or receiver. No RIAA, no fancy link system, just that, Analogue to Airplay.
Since you have the experience, could you tell use how difficult it would be and if you have any insight on why this is something that never came up? (Licenses problems with Apple lawyers, of course but even underground, looks like it never happened…).
Congratulations again for your project.
In severe cases you can see “lightning”-type sparks from the record to surrounding chassis metal in a dark room.
Please Dillen, be gentle with new members. You don’t have to be “that” scary, Freddy-len!
😉As a moderator I need to remove your post before Dillen sees it!
Apart from that, I find the look of it totally cool: So “James Bond”!
As far as I know…
It is not more risky to buy an MK2 than a MK3. Last year I would in fact have told you that it was the other way around: given the most common fault is a laser failure, MK3 has a specific laser assembly hard to find or at crazy price at B&O when MK2 has a more usual one you can find anywhere for a couple of bucks. Since then I’ve learned that most laser failures can be solved with a deep lens cleaning (lens up/down and mirror).
In regard to other fault, I don’t remember one unit was more prone to failure than the other one and for all of them even if problems happens sometimes, its a relatively robust unit and in most cases, easily serviceable. Then the only factual parameter would be that MK3 are of course more “young” units and it may have an impact on the mechanical parts (carriage noise, door mechanism strength, discs clamps softness, etc…)
Hope this helps.
