matador
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Aïe, Aïe, Aïe, RIAA’s…
Between the cheap Chineses, the expensive ones, the not so convenient and those who should but don’t and on top of that the dark shadow of the “not that audiophile” ones that may ruin the rendering of your expensive MMC. It’s a real nightmare. When you add the grounding problems and even worse, the need to board it in the cabinet.
That said I don’t understand why nobody recreated the B&O RIAA preamp the was optional with some Beograms: Wasn’t it made of common components?
Does SHIFT RADIO not work?
It does! Thank you Guy.
Hi Guy,
I’ve tried to participate to your topic by amending it with Beoline 5000 equivalent.
Unfortunately I stalled after the red button key equivalent 🙂Anyway, maybe a little out of topic do you know how to trigger A.AUX from the 5000?
This is to manually switch the inputs on a Playmaker. Beside auto-detect (that sometimes fails), Airplay is triggered by A.MEM (A.TAPE on the BL5000) and the analog input with A.AUX. and for that last I can’t find any equivalent on the BL5000.
N.B.: I could use a Beo4 but I find so stylish to have that BL5000… 🙂
Hi and welcome to Beoworld.
You need to “add” the controls in the beo4 list of soft keys:
Press red dot and list simultaneously, the screen should then display “Option?”.
Press List again, the screen should then display “Add?”.
Press Go, now you can cycle all the soft keys available by pressing the List key.
When you have found the soft key you’re looking for, press Go.
The control will now be available by pressing the List key.You can also reorder the soft keys by moving them to the top one by one.
The Beo4 manual is widely available on the internet and explain the detailled procedure.
Hope this helps.
Further investigations: it seems to be mechanical.
The hooked lever that pushes into the switch doesn’t engage enough at first LIFT button actuation to click in place and keep the platter running. At second actuation it fully clicks in and the starting process goes as it has to.I’ve cleaned it again but I wonder if it’s not related with the rod pushing that lever from the LIFT switch. But I see no adjustment and that rod looks so fragile…
Any idea please ?
The cam and cogs have all been carefully cleaned.
Still need two clicks 🙁You shouldn’t. These cams MUST run dry and clean. Martin
Thank you Martin,
I felt like I did something wrong. I good to clean it all.
Can this be the cause of the double click problem?While waiting for help, I thought someone may be interested in the re-infusing process I used, since it is well explain all over the internet but not often from a beginner point of view.
Disclamer: I know it could have been made better, with better oil, better vacuum device, better skills. But before investing too much, I thought I might give a quick test ride through the full process without any error that can’t be adresse with a little acetone bath.
First step was to take out and dismantle the motor. I decided to take out the full motor assembly before taking it appart. It was in bad shape, rusty, dirty. The rotor itself had rust marks, like drops of liquid that dried on it. I cleaned it and the inner side of the stator, with alcohol.
I finally made it to the pearls. Beware, the two pearls are different: one (the bottom one) is a ball, the other (the spindle side one) has a little cylinder part like a jar. Be sure to take pictures at every step.
I thoroughly cleaned the pearls with acetone and let them bath for several hours.
To do the vacuum I used a wine pump and a little bottle. I thought that the smaller the bottle the stronger the vacuum. For the oil I used the first SAE30 I could find: 4 strokes for lawnmower, it come in little container. Put the oil in the bottle, carefully drop the balls (I’ve read they break easily), close the bottle with the special thingy and start to pump.
After few seconds, bubbles starts to form around the pearls.
I pumped a little more from time to time all along the day.
In the meantime, I read somewhere something I thought couldn’t be armful.
So I soaked the idler wheel in fabric softener. for like 10 hours.
The balls kept bubbling all night long…
With some magic!
The next day I put it all back together. The deck spins a right speed and silently (it was not so noisy before).
Hope this helps.
- Is the view of this picture, the male connector from the backside (soldering side)?
It is not (as often) specified in the Service manual, sorry.
- Are the ground wires (of the input and output cables that I need to combine to the DIN), combined on PIN 2?
In my experience, they are but you may want it to be confirmed by someone else. Nevertheless, they’re is no other pin available so it must be this.
You can find an image of the upcoming soundbar by hitting ‘beosound theatre event’ in google search.
Funny, you can see it in the google search result page but now it leads to an error page!
Wouldn’t it be linked to a B&O page I would have say it’s a fake as I already said about the Stage. Seems I don’t recognize the B&O design ADN anymore…
If you connected BL3500 or 2000 to the PC2 by masterlink then ‘yes’, with limitations – it would be set up as if the Beolab was in a Link Room. You wouldn’t need an IR sensor for the PC2 because you’d put it in option 0 and control it from the BL2000/3500 – Beo4 would be fine for full control.
This is interesting: The that old saying telling A Beolab 3500 can be used standalone with a 1611 converter only is wrong?
No, that one is forbidden until I find one of those little remote too. Unable to find one for 2 or three year when you gave me the idea and still controlling volume from the outside with a “No-com” 6000!
I’m jealous and will report to moderation this post 😉
Listening to the excellent Sarah McLachlan album from 1993 tumbling towards ecstasy
Tried and liked!
Thank you Grumpy cat!
Good evening Guy,
Thank you for your extensive answer.
What I understand is that the Beoport or Beolink PC2 is usefull if you have a masterlink network and want to add a computer source.In nowadays scenarios (server music shared through wifi or computer out to speakers not using the now deprecated Beoplayer software) they are more convenient solutions.
Am I right?
Nevertheless, it made me think of a new topic idea, something like:
“Can I do something funky with all this old B&O boxes I’ve collected over the years?”
Collectors always end up having beolink boxes, lot of Masterlink devices, lot more of something-link wires and a drawers full of remotes (just in case).What do you (Guy and Forum members) think?
Hi,
I hope Guy’s answer solved your problem.
Could you please elaborate on the use pf your PC2 box? What is the use comparing, say with an airplay box or a chrome cast audio? I think this is relevant for a full masterlink setup but could it also be use as some sort of “computer aux-in”.
How can it be used without IR eye (which are quite rare)?
In a nutshell, is there any non-obvious but absolutely useful use we can’t think of?
Thank you.
Hi and welcome to Beoworld.
The Line in-Line out connector is important because it need to be bridged with a special plug for the Beocenter to make any sound. I can see the plug but if the connections are broken (obvisously they are!) it won’t work.
Maybe you can bridge the broken traces by soldering wires (maybe they’re not much) and find an trick to keep the broken pcb part in place. If you need to use the connector for Aux-In, plug the cable in, secure it with anything and let it like that taking care to not applu too much strength on that side.
Of course, Guy’s advice is the way to go but meanwhile that should work.
Hi and welcome to Beoworld.
I can’t answer your question, but what I can advise is to remove and safely store the MMC3 before going any further in your work!
However, you’ll need to control the devices manually.
Maybe I’m wrong but pin 6 and 7 not being connected he will miss the Datalink protocol and therefore, will need to control the cassette deck manually anyway, B&O or not.
Unless B&O restored the datalink protocol on the 3200?
