matador
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Thank you Soren.
I would like to say that I, also like things to be 101% originals.
But the temptation, of having something close to, or just to try to mimic and maybe succeed, won.
The funny part is now it’s done I may soon revert to the original frets or even previous speakers.
I like the result, but for a so called “enthusiast” it will always see them as a fake thing, not 8000’s anymore and never 18’s. I had fun copying the fancy Beosystem 72-22 like for common people but I still see it as an experiment, and nothing more.
But to me it raised some questions, like the one you answered, that’s the fun of it.Anyway, theses speakers are in my office, where I spend most of (99%) of the time seated in the same place. Will check about directivity.
Thanks for stopping by…
it just needs an old retired tv tecci and some parts…
Like everyone of us…
Hi Olivier.
Thank you, all you linked to worked and it was indeed an answer if I understood it well.
What I understood is:- The effect of the grill may or may not be negligible.
- Speakers are tuned with the grill.
- If the grill has an effect, changing it may affect the rendering of the speaker.
- That change may (scientifically) or may not (perceptibly) obvious.
- I reckon for, say a level, it’s not important if you change the grill — fabric for wood or the other way around — aftersale.
- But for an high end speaker like the BL 50 or even 28, what happend when you change the original setup? Beliviing that client for them are “aware” of rendering.
Thanks again Olivier.
… and how is the weather at your place?
Hot but manageable, there is air in the house…
Thanks for asking.In terms of sound I would prefer a redline 140 speaker over a pair of 8000 any day.
I never listen to Redlines, but the Beolabs have replaced a pair of P50 who already had replaced S45’s, so I know what you mean and I’m… Not happy!
(Well, in fact I’m slowly getting use to them, I cranked up the bass a bit in the playmaker and compensate the mids and highs wit a pair od C40 in the rear, I start to like them)
Hi guys,
Thank you all or your interest.
As suggested by a member I’ll upload the file to thingiverse or similar platform for public access. I’ll also try to contact Christian Leicht who as a portal with printable B&O parts.
Will do it in the next days, along with a quick notice for assembly.
I dont know waht a PM is?
Could anybody make a quick recap of the different headphones and their differences?
I can’t see clearly in the lineup and struggle to understand the difference between an HX and a Portal. I mean, I know one is intend for music and the other for games but what does it mean in real life if you listen to music with a Portal or watch TV with an HX?
In the case of the H95, I believe it’s all about finishing and sound quality certainly above the average lineup but even that I’m not sure.
A pensum would help, Thanks in advance.
@Stereomensch: Yes! And the fir is perfect to tint.
# Spassmaker: of course. I just dont know how to add an stl file to a post.
@matador – can you help, or shall I delve into my boxes???Hi Guy,
I’m afraid I can’t help, I have no spare screen, all the faulty I have are mounted on remotes.
Hi Steve,
That is the kind of partnership I was referring to. I should have mentioned it.
Sorry and thank you for your continuous help and support.
Hi,
I can’t say if its related to MK’s but early BS3000 have small clamper and later, big clamper.
For the features I can’t say either, sorry.
Hi Rudy,
I’m here using my “Moderator superpowers” but be certain I’ talking as an usual member.
Your various announcements are interresting and welcome because they may be useful for the community and specially BV7 or Beolab owners.
But if this enthusiast forum will be used as an advertising, marketing or aftersales support platform, please consider getting in touch with the forum runner and start some sort of partnership.
It’s kind of “unbalanced” to use the large footprint of the forum to make business without “giving back” in return. As a businessman you should know those things have a cost.
In the meantime, post like the three I’ve blocked will be systematically send to moderation for further examination.
I hope you and the other forum members will understand this.
Regards.
Usually, it starts with one line of dots that disappear followed by more and more.
And/or the screen contrast fading until being not readable anymore.
And obviously, screen broken or leaking.As you said, pressing the bottom of the screen where the zebra strip is can help sometimes but not always. I tried to carefully clean the strip and tighten it but it didn’t help to bring back some screens to life, so if you have any tip it would greatly help a lot of us I think!
Hi,
Idiot question: did you try with (a lot of very) different discs? If no, maybe it is related to the “density” of data on the disc? I think I’v read somewhere that the specs on CD’s have evolved with time and some early decks may have problems reading more recent discs. I’ve got a deck that is unable to play any burned CD’s that can be read without problem on my BS9000.
Worth a try.
When dust is not to stuck, I use a silk brush for painting that as no other purpose that sweeping B&O stuffs, When the device is old and has already cleaning marks like micro scratches, the microfiber cloth and care.
Looks like they sense something that tells the door to stay opened.
Do you know how to remove the doors and the black acrylic panels?
if so, try a good cleaning of all components, doors, panels and the sensors you will immediately see (4 littles black pearls into a trapezoidal housing, pointed to the center of the unit.I really can’t get why people is able to come in for the fist time and ask for help without saying at least “hello/thank you”. Sorry it falls on you, but this is something that really wonders me each time.
That said:
– there is no such thing as “closing sensor”. it’s just a timeout. If the sensor that triggers the doors opening doesn’t detect movement or something in their field, the doors will closed.
– you don’t tell us if the doors close when you help them, which will point a mechanical problem.
– Then if they close, that will be, as already said and by easiest to solve, 1-clean with alcohol and carefully lubricate with silicon. 2-change the belt. 3-Align the doors (search old forum for details).Hope this helps.
