matador
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Thanks again Guy,
My further investigations: as I have a Beocenter 7700 I tried to use the MCL2A as it was intended. Beocenter has no speakers at all. Speaker ribbon from speaker 1 or 2 (didnt change anything) to the white box and there, IR eye hard wired and beovox connected.
On the eye. The red light glows when receiving IR and according with the press of the key.
The Mute key do bring music on ad off on the speakers.
A long press doesn’t put the Beocenter on standby or a simple one doesn’t bring it to life.Volume commands through IR are received (led blinks) but no effect whatsoever.
The faulty IR board do light up the mute led but doesn’t react to IR (capacitor ?). When you touch the little pins that must be the socket for the keyboard I guess, the relay does click in and out and de mute led light accordingly…
This what I tried:
Connectig the green to +5V (from computer USB) and brown to 0V. Played with the remote. Nothing. That IR eye came with a second board declared as faulty. Tried the same. Nothing.
Then tried to wire the eye to the Passive as Guy suggest. Nothing.
The Passive is still not connected to anything beyond power and IR.
Thank you Guy for this two answer.
That’ full of hope and i’ll try all this as soon as possible.
About the passive in Masterlink configuration, is it possible to feed the box throut Masterlink (I know they are Line in/out wires…) or does the masterlink need some sort of handshake protocol or trigger current to start.
My goal is to have a standalone thing made of amplification with the passive, control with the eye (on/off, volume, bass, treble) and speakers.
Beogram 1700 is a wonderful deck.
Hi Martin, could you please elaborate on what “academically” makes a deck wonderful and why the 1700 is part of them?
Thanks.
Not quite following your comment and it’s meaning 100%? For Sure we are all entitled to listen to what we want and like and opinion was offered by me on a point of view.
Sorry for being imprecise. What I tried to say is: I wonder if speakers are designed i relation with the music trends from their times? I don’t know maybe in the sixties they will emphasis electric guitar and rock drums, in the 80’s Synthetisizers sound and electronic bass and today extremely deep bass… If so, say somebody that use to listen 70’s Rock on 70’s speaker is likely to never like recent speaker for this music. But say yhe same guy listen to recent music, maybe he wont like it on his beovox but like it on modern Beolabs.
Then to compare two very different types of speakers (beside the fact you compare a full device – beolab, with a) speaker and an amplifier…) doesn’t it need to have a neutral common ground that will even things out and not help any speaker above the other?
Hope this is more clear.
My view is that the latter-day products are way way more tonally balanced and powerful than earlier non-ICE loudspeakers.
Interesting point of view. Can it be unlinked to the music habits of the moments? I mean can we compare the point of view of a member that listen the same record on is beloved Beogram for 40 years on Beovox and BL8000 and after that Beolab 5 and then 90’s… With the one of someone listening to Spoteezer HDmium on a Balance and comparing it with Square 5 member around a beer in a crowded bar?
More seriously doesn’t comparison need to have a common ground?
I’ve not golden ears and don’t own high end Beolabs: 4000’s and 8000’s.
But I remember what I felt after plugging-in S45-2 and even more P50’s… Something… Full.
Now they are all stored (glued) because I’m more in a 1990’s mood with the 8000’s, but eventually the big boxes will return, yes.
Solved. More force was the answer.
Now I want Rita Mur’s Love Story Short cassette…
I’ve two or three laser lenses that behave erratically, I’ll try that.
If it do works, I can predict second hand value of faulty 9000’s will jump for sure !
No. They are one or two little plastic clips you have to pinch to be able to slightly lift the PCB in order to push the belt inside. Then you have to fiddle a little to set the belt on the right path. and then find the right way to close all the mechanism with the pulley inside that path (the pulley Martin pointed as being on the metal bracket).
It’s as fun as Chinese puzzle but not impossible. There is a video on youtube about that, but I don’t know if it is helpful to that extend.
Also read my thread on this in the old forum: if your belt broke with the mechanism engaged there is an heart-splitting maneuver to do to make it work again.
Good luck.
Hi alls,
I haven’t chime in so far because having given up on the case I felt I couldn’t help.
But, from the tail to the tip:
- warm, ambiance and white may refer to the kelvin temperature of color : the difference between the surgical white of early led lamps and the more comfy orangish light close to tungsten lamps color…
- I’ve investigate the use of led lamps with LC’s and what I learned, that hasn’t been mentioned so far, is that there is two dimmer types: Leading Edge Dimmers vs Trailing Edge Dimmers
One work with dimmable leds, the other won’t. This leads to led lamps that are compatible with the sort of dimmer LC’s are (can’t remember which). What I remember is, in time, they where hard to find and quite expensive but it was long ago and nowadays maybe basic Phillips hue or Ikea will fall in that category.
So beside the IR/BT need and if the crazy “power consumption” comes from the lamp and not the LC itself, then it may worth a Beoworld investigation to see where we are now.
(Got one LC2 with a 100W spot lamp above my desk for when I swap belts on any Beocord) and it is really carefully monitored for on/off time, so I can’t help further but now you know all I know.)
Regards.
Hi,
As far as I know, no it’s not possible.
But I would like somebody say otherwise.
My two cents…
NFTs are not for us. Period.
C’mon guys, where all dealing with any capacitor value shortage or Beoparts.com life expectancy to keep alive a beomaster that is an energy consumption nightmare (I would like my english level allows me a more scaring wording…) Bt lets be realistic, we are all dinosaurs and some of us are T-rex (Square 5, who takes it all) but we’re all close to die.
That said, we love the brand, some for a simple Beosound A1, others for the history of it and others for someone else that live through the BV harmony or the BS theater or even the recreation of beograms (that are dreams for many of us I believe).
SO.
That NFT thing is B**** sh***t to me too. I can provide you any B&O 3D animated gif for free.
BUT
If it’s a way to keep the brand alive because it as to live with it’s life, then… OK
We all know what B&O is. Let’s be friendly and educate those who don’t go to Bose or Devialet and will end up asking for help to infuse sinter bearings…
By the way, it offends me when websites don’t let casual non-logged-in users see pictures
Don’t let yourself be offended: this is a know issue that will be addressed when the voluntary guy running Beoworld will have time to sort this. In the meantime it’s possible to every member to add a simple picture as an image (with the picture button in the post compose window) and not an attachement for everyone to see it.
And if anyone is interested…
- You can turn the old white wool pads inside out to have a leather like surface again…
- You can also try “mad catz triton” replacement earpad: a couple of dollars, slightly larger but they should fit nicely.
God save the U70!
Hi Martin. Thanks for chiming in…
I don’t feel like it lift slower than it drops or slower than the BG12xx I own.
Of course, compared to a BG400X the move is more “damped” But nothing that I could described as sluggish.
Yes it has worked in my possession. It has even been my main deck until I get a 400X.
Hope the helps.
I dind’t see the answer until now.
I’ve contacted Beogogo, who I’d like to thank for his generous offer.
Which actually mentions Beogram 4000 as well.
Yes, I’m with you on this but i think we’ll never have another answer that the one Steve gave us earlier in this thread.
