[matador]

Ok, Thank you Guy for all these details. The AV thing makes sense now.

It’s really sad there isn’t any “easy” way to use the Beolab 3500 MK2 (seems that MCL models can be trigger with 5V) as a simple standalone speaker.
I am quite impressed with the sound; of course not as much bass than Beolab 4000 but I expected a more thin sound.

[matador]

Guy wrote:

Of course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.

Yes that could be interesting to have the Beolab 3500 with it’s own remote in a same room that use another “general” Beoremote. Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?

[matador]

Oh, and another thing, sorry: when I press the mute button it goes straight to RADIO, not the last source, which was TV. Any chance to change that?

Thanks.

[matador]

Millemissen wrote:

why should a ‘pure’ audio command not work?

I think that too, but after reading old post from BW2, I must have confuse things.
The guy speaking of “any source” was RaMaBo and in fact, he wrote “any Video source like DTV, V.MEM, TV, etc…”

Now what I still dont understand is why I need to press AV before.

Millemissen wrote:

Using the A/V function/button before you hit a video button however, means that you adress an audio source.

Ok I get that, I use this command on a BV6 to start just the sound without the picture.
But why don’t I hear the sound when pressing TV only? Shouldn’t it bring picture (on no screen) AND sound?

Millemissen wrote:

That is a sophisticated setup – but probably a bit over the top of what Matador has aimed at.

Indeed!

PS: No MCL Master. A BC2300?

[matador]

Guy wrote:

Congratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!

Thank you Guy,

I know you’re quite a fan of all those mysterious (or not so) black boxes, but honestly, a Beolink converter is not the piece of B&O I was expecting to be congratulated for! 🙂

It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.

[matador]

beojeff wrote:

There could be a different solution for you.

Interesting. I too would like to hear how it turns. But for now, its a little bit over… me.
I’m not an NL or ever ML guy and right now I just want to go for the cheaper: a converter, the Lab 3500 and an airport base.

But Id like to know more about the ML power box: would it work as an audiometer by itself or does it need the NL/ML converter ?

Thanks

[matador]

You’re right, after reading the manual again it looks like they are talking about the main systems.

I powered the converter last as you already mentioned it in various topics.

So for you, now way of triggering it with any key other than AV+TV, right?

[matador]

Hi KolfMaker,

Thats the one I would like, Yes.
I’ve still not seen one for sale around but I was told they’re quite expensive.
There is a wall stand for sale in local ads and it’s around 60€, that is more that I paid for the two 3500.

That’s when finding bargain B&O stuff dont helps you ! 🙂

BTW, stil no luck in fixing the powerlink input, but if the 3500 from your friend is an MCL model, you should try the 5V trick!

Regards.

[matador]

The Midwich Cuckoos aka Invasion of the Beosnatchers…

[matador]

Merci d’être revenu nous donner la solution. Profitez bien de votre nouveau Beoviseur !

[matador]

I’ll add all the files to the first post.

[matador]

Pfffewwww…

Thank you Guy and guys!

[matador]

Yes, that’s the one I was talking about. Did’nt want to post it without permission but now it’s there that’s the one.

Search on Beoworld often return this limitation, but don’t say what happen if its not SW 3.1.

[matador]

Hi,

I’d like to chime in even if my point of view may not be useful at a all.

I entered the world of vinyl records just because Beograms were beautiful.
Not because records sounds better or whatever else.

Of course quickly came the question of “what if my cartridge is just not good?”
And even if sometimes, on certains records, I found the sound pleasant, good, nice… I’ll always going to have that little voice in my head: “maybe your cartridge is just not good”.

Reading around people who are blown away with cartridges that cost a lot or using words you would never use to describe music didn’t help.

Also reading about all that can turn wrong in a cartridge (stone, cantilever, suspension, coil…) didn’t help either.

Then I had the opportunity to have MMC4 rebuilt by a reputable man, who’s work can’t be questioned. I was exited to listen to those “like new” cartridges, with new diamond and new rubber. I put them on, put a record and what I heard was… Music.
The same that with my old SP10, SP14, SP12 and not better than my recent old MMC20S.

Just music, good enough, I mean I can hear the difference with a CD or a digital file but music with the added pleasure of seing it spinning and holding the sleeve and so on.

But honestly, in the different cartridge families I could listen to, their condition and their quality level, I never heard any major difference.

I’m not saying they do not exist and that a trained or used ear can make a substantial difference between them. But I may be fuzzy, I want just to say that sometimes its more about hype than music. And forums don’t help: they are so much things that can change the music between the tip of the diamond and the sound in your head: deck condition, preamplifier, amplifier, speakers, power cords (this one is for you M), room acoustics…
I let it go. As long as I can listen to music and have a spare cartridge just in case, it’s good for me. I’d like to have an MMC20EN for my deck, yes, but it’s only because it is silver.
And maybe if it happens, I could wake up in a different world that will make me consider this whole post as stupid, maybe… But, I doubt.

With all due respect to those who ear a difference.

[matador]

Ok, I surrender and have a 1611 converter on the road . But…

I vaguely remember and a drawing from our old funky pal Peter Pan seems to confirm that the box MUST be SW 3.1. Mine (my future) is SW 1.3.

What should I expect from this?

Thank you!

[matador]

matador wrote:
Another lead here Beolab 3500 Standalone

So, I contacted that member Curious-dreamer and he was very kind to give all the details of its setup and answer my questions, Thank you Curious Dreamer!

So, That’s indeed a Beolab 3500 and it is used as a standalone like an usual Beolab speaker.
The 3500 is triggered by an external 5v signal coming thru the Din plug. I asked him if that was enough or if another trick was needed. The special Cable was enough and he don’t even have a remote so no cumbersome key sequence here.

I did a cable similar to is: L+R as usual and 5v on pin 1 grounded to pin 7.
And… It did not work! The audio part is good, tested in PL mode, and the power part do work and trigger correctly a Beolink Passive.

This do work on its Beolab 3500 but not on mine.
Its is a type 1601 with serial 116xxx and S.W 1.1
Mine is a type 1601 with serial 194xxx and S.W 3.1

Maybe the problem lies here in the S.W version or maybe I should use pin 4 instead of pin 1 to trigger the speaker? But it’s well known and repeated again and again that the 3500 can’t be used as an usual Beolab. And if it was pin 4, any Powerlink cable should have triggered the speaker right ?

The quest continues…

[matador]

matador wrote:

Another lead here Beolab 3500 Standalone

So, I contacted that member Curious-dreamer and he was very kind to give all the details of its setup and answer my questions, Thank you Curious Dreamer!

So, That’s indeed a Beolab 3500 and it is used as a standalone like an usual Beolab speaker.
The 3500 is triggered by an external 5v signal coming thru the Din plug. I asked him if that was enough or if another trick was needed. The special Cable was enough and he don’t even have a remote so no cumbersome key sequence here.

I did a cable similar to is: L+R as usual and 5v on pin 1 grounded to pin 7.
And… It did not work! The audio part is good, tested in PL mode, and the power part do work and trigger correctly a Beolink Passive.

This do work on its Beolab 3500 but not on mine.
Its is a type 1601 with serial 116xxx and S.W 1.1
Mine is a type 1601 with serial 194xxx and S.W 3.1

Maybe the problem lies here in the S.W version or maybe I should use pin 4 instead of pin 1 to trigger the speaker? But it’s well known and repeated again and again that the 3500 can’t be used as an usual Beolab. And if it was pin 4, any Powerlink cable should have triggered the speaker right ?

The quest continues…

[matador]

Steve at Sounds Heavenly wrote:

that looks like a Nikon…

I’m afraid it is even worse…

[matador]

Steve, you know I respect you,

But are you REALLY shooting an interview with the Beolab 90 designer with only 24% of battery left? Not good! 🙂

Happy new year’s eve to you and all Beoworld members.

[matador]

Carefully follow the procedure described by Ramabo and it will work. Remember to activate “again” the IR reception with the appropriate (I don’t remember right now) procedure.

Yes the Century is a beautiful piece, I always wanted to have a working one.
If you’re an Architect I would advise you to do a search on the old forum about fret reclothe: with this and and any fancy pantyhose shop, you can do miracles in terms of integration! The old forum ‘flash your B&O’ thread is full of gorgeous pictures of Centurys, in dark red, dark green, or any other duck blue like color that will just make you want to refurbish you interior.

Happy new year to you too and to all Beoworld members

[Author]

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