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Guys, I’m sorry to be unable to participate to your Datalink investigations, far beyond my understanding, experience and available material (I used to have a full 5000 that was quite amazing but it goes away…).
Nice!
Did you change the lid or is it the original one? If so how did you get it back this nice?
Not sure: when I bought mine it had no speaker connected which would automatically turn the unit in A.OPT 0, but I still could check the unit listening to the radio thought headphones. (Didn’t spared me to buy an unit with all the sledge linkage missing ;-))
As the OP mentioned, I would have expect the analog sources of the 9000 travel via Master link to the BV and then the speakers.
My god, “a beolab 3500 just lying here…”, criminal. 😀
Service manual show different part number but the look like very close with the same groove and have the same way of mounting, two prongs and a screw in the middle.
If you have booth at hand, I would take measurements and try my luck.Who said B&O was all Look over substance? 😀
(making my own ASNUT cable)
Please, name it differently!
There is a Beoport around for not too much. I’m still hesitant to take it since I’m a Mac guy.
But after today, who knows how much fun we could have with it!I know they’re is a driver for Mac Called BM-link that still can be found but it seems it was another one a little bit better and this one cannot be found anymore. That stops me.
Good it helps your setup Guy.
Cheers and again, thank you for being partner in crime.
Well done! MM
Thanks MM
I think that together we have doubled the value (and second-hand prices!) of BL1611 Converters, and probably BL3500 as well.
Actually that was my main concern before posting, since I still need a second converter. 😀
Maybe add a note to say that the BL3500 is in L.OPT 6.
Done.
Actually, is it me or have you got the Audio and Video Beo4 sources reversed in the diag? Pins 3 and 5 (video source) were on the right hand side – source B.)
They were reversed, corrected now.
Also, have you tested what source (A or B) the PC command selects, if any?
Channel A (Audio side) can be triggered with a PC command. Beolab will display “PC”.
Here you have:
Et Voilà,
Thank you a thousand times Guy for your constant tries, everlasting curiosity and sharp ability to dig into any white paper.
Thank you Madskp for joining us and giving some clues that made us going forward.This morning I tried this:
Converter 1611 turned up on first (I am maybe superstitious on that one) connect to the Beolab 3500 via Masterlink.
On the AAL socket on the converter, I have that adapter I use to convert DIN Line In/Line Out to 4 RCA from a Beomaster, 5 pins, I’ll check and post the exact wiring later.
Each pair of RCA connected to an iPod with a classic RCA to Jack Adapter.And…
Audio sources (CD, A.TAPE, RADIO… AND PC) trigger iPod A,
Video sources (CDV, V.TAPE, TV…) trigger iPod B.So, we now have a standalone Beolab 3500 with to remote switchable channels!
This is Beoworld!
It would seem therefore that the 1611 uses pins 3 and 5 as input when it is a video-master, but pins 1 and 4 when an audio-master.
Could it be as simple (and stupid) as that? I’ll try tomorrow since I have one of these 4 RCA cable too or could make one if needed.
Could that mean tant you could have two sources connected to a 1611? Say Ipad on TV and Airplay on A.AUX?
Can’t wait to go out of the bed tomorrow! Exciting progress! Thanks Guy!
Ok Gentlemen,
Why can’t we (almost) not use the converter as an something-master when connected to a Beovision?
Guy succeed when using his Beosound 1 but why didnt I when connection my 2300?
Tomorrow I will connect again the 1611 with the 3500 and start it last to see if it reverts to the need of AV+key to open is AUX port. I mean, are we struggling with a lack of procedure testing or against an autoconfig devil? That will be a long night…
7 pins, but I think the OneRemote data is going to pin 7 which is not connected inside the 1611. Hence why I think I need to swap 6 and 7 (or use an adaptor)
That would be a very dirty trick from OneRemote.
The manual for the 1611 only mentions it briefly
Yes and that’s where I think B&O like to keep us in the blind…
From my diggings in the old forum, the powerlink socket is of no use at all for us. It just tell the converter when you turn up the system or change volume from the keyboard of an AAL unit like the Beocenter 2300. It carries no sound and accept no sound, just “meta commands” if I can call it like this.
How much pins do your internet radio have ?
Hi and welcome to Beoworld,
Well, first we don’t know either why it didn’t occurs to you that B&O was the obvious answer.
But never mind, we all forgive you!While waiting for a more educated answer from members who have a true listening experience with the setup you are aiming for. I personally dont have experience with it.
But… From the catalogs:
Beovision 3 was shown in a surround setup with 8000 fronts and 6000 rear.
6000 are often shown as rear speaker, often with Beolab 1 as front.
Beovision 7 that carry Beolab 7 is show with 8000 front and rear.
Beosystem AV9000 is shown with 8000 front and 6000 rear, with the triangle Beolab as center.As far as I know, 8000 and 6000 are more or less same “generation” speaker so they should merge well.
What I would care of (naively):
– How much of the “merging” is usually done by the Beovision engine and would not happen with your setup.
– How your sub will fit in there?What I would care of (with experience):
– how were the speakers serviced and refurbished? They’re both known for foam rot problem (do a search on this forum) that can alter the lifetime of the speaker. They need to be opened, cleaned, and the damping material to be replaced. 6000’s are prone to the other foam rot, the disintegration of the drivers suspension. It can be fixed but it need to be well done.
I think you need to check this even before starting to play with your new toys.Hope this helps.
I tried to crank the volume up to max on both the iphone and the TV. Then I would hear the sound, but very low like when trying to connect a record player to an input without a RIAA.
When I use the converter with the Beolab 3500, normal sound is obtain by pressing any VIDEO source.
If I press an audio source, like CD, and crank the volume up up up, I can hear the music far away and very high pitched, like if it was leaking from another channel.
Is this what you experience? I yes then I think it’s just not working at all, its just an electrical perturbation.Nothing,
I’ve tried
- Two different Masterlink cables.
- Option setting,
- Connecting My BC2300 in A-OPT 0
- To enable Beolink Radio and disable Internal Radio,
- Press Menu after selection an audio source,
- Select AV+Audio Source.
All nothing, the TV stay on the last internal source selected (TV, A.MEM, RADIO…)
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