Mark-sf
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There is a bulb ? n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.
Someone might have put some double-sided tape to secure it. Try taking a piece of fishing line and work it toward the middle and around. The bottom also comes off to get at it from underneath.
I would check the switch associated with the disk in the center of the platter as that has a switch that tells the system a record is on the platter. If it is intermittent (dirty/misadjusted) you will get this behavior.
By slim do you mean less wide or less deep? If you want to preserve it as a B&O system, a pair of CX100’s are narrower and are quite stylish IMHO. Remember, this unit has a built-in loudness contour in the volume control (which you can’t bypass without getting inside) so should not be paired with speakers that are bass heavy.
The Lift Circuit (IC1/TR9 is supposed to trigger the brake (TR32) so I would start there. Since you have a second 8002 you have a unit to compare. As to the change in arm speed once it gets over the platter, I do not recall that it does this normally as there is no reason it needs to. I know it doesn’t slow down on the 4xxx Beograms.
It simply lifts off by getting your finger tips under the edge and lift up. The adapter stays in place.
These are designed to be user-adjusted controls in order to match levels between the phono or tape decks and the tuner. There is no “correct” setting as they act as an input-specific volume control ahead of the source selector.
I’m not a big fan of the ribbed record support system of the 8000 and earlier tables. Additionally, since your other cartridges are interchangeable with the 8002, that is the one I would keep.
Am azimuth grid assumes a perfect cartridge and won’t yield the result you are seeking. Correct azimuth alignment is when both channels are at their maximum balanced separation which requires both a test record that has single-modulated channel tracks and an RMS meter or a Fozimeter for the measurement.
For your hum problem, does it go away when the arm is at rest? I would carefully look at the shield and tonearm connections inside. Also is is a DIN or Phone cable?
Regarding 45, there is a relay along with the mechanical switch and active circuit. Does the platter not spin at all when selecting 45 or does it not change from 33 to 45?
I am not familiar with SoundDesign B&O cartridges. Could you mean SoundSmith? Record static (that is electrostatic attraction to vinyl) is usually caused by dry environments. A Zerostat can help mitigate it when cleaning the record. If by static, you are instead meaning electrical noise thru your speakers, that is something entirely different and can be confirmed by its random nature. Finally, if you are referring to pops and ticks from your records that occur at the same points during playback, these are either defects or foreign matter in the grooves that may be cleaned using ultrasonic techniques. If you good clarify the above we could help further.
Christian, you should realize that the 4000c has a line-level output since it has a built-in phono pre-amp versus a phono one in your 4000/4002. Therefore the screening and grounding are of more importance on yours. It is highly unlikely that Sound Heavenly manufactures their own wire but buys it in bulk from a supplier. What is it about the 4000sc’s wiring that you find desirable? I have custom-wired several hundred Beogram 4000x’s in my time so could provide guidance if you’d like.
That adjustment is your azimuth and really cannot be done visually. A static measurement assumes the diamond and cantilever is perfectly orthogonal to the record surface which is seldom true. Unless you have a measurement capability to check for optimum channel separation using a test record, you should not try to fine-tune this adjustment.
Check out the service manual either here as a Silver Member or at beomanuals.com. You need to open it from the top and you can find the endpoints on the large pulley and near the left of the tonearm base illustrated in the manual.
In reality, dynamic speakers are only nominally 4 or 8 ohms. They vary their impedance with frequency. A manufacturer rates an amp’s power into a load. Therefore as the load goes from 8 to 4 an amp must deliver more current to support the voltage needed to drive the speaker. If the amp cannot its voltage will drop which reduces its watts. This just means if both an 8 and 4 ohm pair had the same sensitivity you could play the 8 ohm louder. Both will still work. Simply turn the volume down if you hear distortion from any speaker regardless of its rating.
Can’t really comment on it without more details. However, for $75 it’s a steal no matter its condition. It will likely need an overhaul but there are plenty of parts such as belts, relays, caps, fuses, etc available.
Welcome. It’s great you are trying to assist her. It appears she has a 3000 not a 4000. There are adjustments for both set down point and tracking force described in the service manual available online. I would first check on how clean the stylus is. That can be done with a magnifying glass. How comfortable are you with taking things apart and putting them back?
Yes the E will work fine and trace better since it’s an elliptical shape versus the spherical of the S.
