Mark-sf
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Welcome to the forum. First, I would check that your cartridge stylus force is adjusted properly. It should be 2 grams. You will need a stylus force gauge as I don’t believe there were calibrated markings. If this does not solve your problem, I would check whether yours as the phono card plugged into the bottom. If it does then this could be at fault. Which inputs are you using on your Marantz?
No, a TR is not an IC. You will need to trace the circuit but you have the SO switch as a reference. Just follow its high side.
Does the turntable motor keep spinning as well as the lamps stay lit? If so, you still have an active 22.8v rail and OTR1 is not turning off. Is the anode of 1D1 grounded when this occurs?
I was referring to the switch marked “SO” that is on the Arm Transport PC board. This keeps the TT off when the arm has returned to rest. Sometimes the optical bar can be misadjusted in its engagement of the switch or it can be dirty as its contacts are exposed. As to D1, I am referring to the diode that is between a 2.2K resistor and the base of TR1. I highly doubt it changed for your type.
I’m afraid you are not going to find a new one. Your best bet would be to find a used non-working 3404 with a reasonably clean cover, that you could then part out to recover some or all of your cost.
Sorry, I don’t have experience with the Beolink products that came later to answer.
For a start all of the electrolytics should be replaced, Thes are the cylindrical (horizontal or vertical ones) paying attention to their polarity. I would also clean and check the alignment of the switch that is activated by the optical rail when it returns to rest. This should be grounding the base of TR1 via diode D1.
If it has never been repaired it is overdue to have its electrolytic capacitors replaced. Once this is done and the voltages confirmed your problems would likely be solved. This can be done by a competent technician even without B&O experience.
This could be multiple issues including the servo belt, threaded rod alignment and cleaning/lubrication, loose or cracked pulley, etc. I would attack the mechanicals first before the electronics based upon an issue in only one direction.
Have you performed a re-cap of the electrolytics on the board? The symptom points to it needing that.
You can find the service manual based upon your 5500 Type at beomanuals.com or if you become a Silver member of this site. The procedure is documented there.
I would not suspect the motor in this case based on your symptoms and what you have done to date. You can confirm if you have a 45rpm LP which should make the wow significantly worse if it’s a motor issue. I instead would check the adjustment of the tonearm optical shutter and ensure it is within the i.5 to 2.5 initial rotations and how it behaves toward the end of the record. Since the curve is tighter, if it is not correcting fast enough it can sound like a speed variation.
“Fast” backwards,>>, is the same as Stop so I am still not sure what you are describing. How is the speed compared to moving forward between Play and Stop as well as < and >?
I’m not sure I understand your symptoms. You say going to stop works fine but fast backwards doesn’t. Those functions use the same circuit except for how they are activated. Are you saying that the arm returns fine at the end of record but simply raises and doesn’t when you press Stop?
Have you checked/cleaned R160/260 as they control playback output before the meters which I did not realize or had forgotten?
The symptom that’s troubling is that you are observing the problem in both channels but still getting a signal. I would next try Martin‘a suggestion of recording on the 9000 and playing back on another machine. This would help identifying the defective section.
In your description of work performed you said nothing about the tape heads. Have you cleaned them, checked for wear, and adjusted them?
That type of damage is typically caused by overheating which can be the result of any of the following or in combination:
- clipping an amp into the speaker
- if the series capacitor, C2 was too large or shorted
- if the parallel resistor, R6 is open.
Are B&O and Sound-Smith the only sources of compatible cartridges? I suspect that other sources are unlikely, but wanted to ask to be sure. Thanks, Glitch
Actually, B&O has not been a source for years and are even using a Sound-Smith in the 95th Anniversary Limited Edition 4000c.
On the used market your best bet would be for a non-working table with the cartridge intack as that will likely be cheaper and you can even part out the table to pay for it.
