Madskp
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I seen somewhere on the forum that beolink converter 1611 might be a solution? can you please educate me a bit what is this converter for and how does it works. Also would it help in my situation?
I would reccomend that you take a look at this post https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/4/#post-14017
The 1611 converter can be used to make 2 inputs controlled by either audio or video commands.
In my opinion its a much better solution than the Menu, 0, 4, GO because its easier to activate and you can use the volume control from the BEO4 remote which is not possible in the other wayUnfortunately it does not react on any buttons. How to check if it actually sees remote?
It could be that it is in option 0 (not reacting to IR commands) or option 4 (only reacting to link commands).
Try to set it to option 2 as described in Guys post earlier in this thread https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beolab-3500-mk1-mcl-menu-0-4-go-help/#post-8004
You might wan’t to look in this thread where the servicetool is also available for download
https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beosound-5-beomaster-5-service-tool/
One problem I see with manuals for newer products is that software updates may changes how the products work. Even functions of buttons can be changed over a products lifetime.
Furthermore some products are dependent on third parties (Apple, Google, Spotify ect.) where the behaviour from these services also may change over time.
And then there is the interactions with linked products that also can affect the picture.
Therefore a manual for modern Audio streamer and/or TV is not a static document and need to be updated over time to reflect the current state of the product.
So guess it’s not that simple to implement a relevant user manual for modern products
Continuing I noticed that the CPU cooler gets very hot. I have measure the CPU Vcore voltage which is around 1.0V. This doesn’t sound critical to me, but I don’t know what the correct voltage should be.
Also measure random voltages around the motherboard, and nothing looks suspicious.
Also did some checking for short circiuted caps, but that is not the case either.
I am a little interested to see if I can make the BS5 screen show some life. Does anyone know if it should be possible to make i show the picture from an other computer, provided power is supplied to the BS5 screen?
Or should it have some signal via the USB cable?
For masterlink to work, must pin 3 and 12 be connected to the masterlink plug?
Not quite sure I understand what you mean.
Pin 3 and 12 should be used in the masterlink plug end, but in the Rj45 end they can be spliced toghether.
You can see the pinout in the Beolink Handbook 1.9 at page 98 https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/beolink-handbook-version-1-9/
The CAT7 wire should have a shield that according to the Beolink Handbook should be connected to the three solid blank wires in the ML cable. This is the 9th wire.
hope this will help you
When you have both the BC9500 and the BL3500 in the same room both units will recieve the remote signals.
To avoid this you can temporarely set the BL3500 to option 4. Then you will have to use the Link command before any command you send to it.
The BC9500 will not react to theese commands.Another thing that comes to mind that might not be a thing, but wont hurt to do is to check if Masterlink (ML) is set to off on the BL3500 as that is not needed in this setup.
with the remote press
Menu + 0 + 0 + Play ( If your BL1000 doesn’t have menu use shift + text).
If the display show ML ON use the arrows to change it to ML OFF
Hi again
Regarding option settings, try that first.
Reading your first post it sounds like the BL3500 is in another room than the BC9500, so opt. 6 would be right.
Beolink 1000: Link + 6 + Store, the BL3500 should show option 6 in the display
Regarding wirering the first thing I would check is if you are using the speaker 2 sockets for the MCL plugs, and that you have the correct left/right polarity (I do not suspect that as you can control the music)
Hello, you said, reset the CMOS, did you check whether the battery has the correct 3V voltage? I had one where I thought as well the mainboard might be dead but it was just an old battery
I replaced the battery today, but still no luck.
I also meassured that all voltages on the ATX connecter is within specification, and they are.
Next I replaced 2 1000uf caps next to the ATX connector as one of the looked bulgy. Still no sign of life.
Dont worry, its just a CR2032 coincell battery on the PCmotherboard to hold the clock. I have never seen leaks on these even on very old computers.
Hello and thanks for the input.
I have measured the battery voltage to 3V, but I could try to put in a new one tomorrow just to rule that out.Could be interesting with another motherboard. The only one of the same type I can find cost more than another BM5/BS5
On the older BV10 you got to the Service Mode by pressing MENU then 0 0 GO within 3 seconds, so you could give that a try!
I tried this on my Beoplay V1, but I can’t get that combination to work. It will just acces the menu, ignore the 0’s, and select the first menu item
According to the Service Manual, there’s a ‘Customer Service Menu’ but I don’t think it shows the ‘counters’. To access: Press the MENU button on the remote control, choose ‘Setup’, and press the Centre button. Press RED button and within 3 seconds press the Centre button.
I can confirm this is how the customer service menu is accesed on a Beoplay V1 ( same platform). But I dont see counters anywhere, so it might only be via the servicetool as Guy mention.
What are these power supplies intended for? Based on the Din plug my guess would be soldering irons?
Am I correct to assume that Data male-to-male 2-pin minijack cable is a special B&O cable? I can’t seem to find any in my searches.
It might be called trigger cable or mono cable. I think the most important is that it has two male 2 pin minjack 3.5mm conenctors
Looks like two sets of identical cables.
It is one cable, but in one end the individual cables just have some length to fit the space between connected components. wired up for 2 whole sets of connections with both analog sound Left and Right (phono plugs with thin wires), digital sound, coax (phono plug with thick wire), composite video (phono plug with thick wire), S-video (S-Video plug), and data/control signal cable (2 pin minijack).
My father got me two sets of these cables once when he was still working at B&O. I striped them down and rebuilt them to make cables for sound from PC to stereo, and video cable from computers to TV’s. Hell of a work to get those cables disassembled as the wires inside are twisted.
Next question, Any idea what the DATA cable and Digital output cables might look like? I’ve been searching around online to find somewhere to order those without avail.
The digital cables are with phono plugs as described above.
The data cable is the one with 2 pin minijack. Looking at the picture though it sees like it is with a male connector in one end, but with at female connector in the other end. I think you will need a 2 pin minijack cable with male connectors in both ends to be able to connect it to the DVD players data connection.
I think that’s in case your TV is connected to further TVs in link rooms. Only the analogue signals would be distributed, whereas digital available in the main room for better quality/surround.
I agree that must be the explanation, and also it might be an easier way to explain i to the end user to just connect all cables.
Ahh now I see what you mean. Found this thread with the video showing the cleaning https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/who-wants-his-beosound-9000-to-live-forever/#post-11109
