[LukeS]

Have you got an IR eye attached to your beolink converter? If not I’d set the ir option to 0 and see if that helps (equivalent to a video master in option zero)

[LukeS]

from the BeoWorld website:

the definitive answer is that all BeoSound 9000’s can be upgraded

to support N.MUSIC and here are the details:

BeoSound 9000 type 252x produced from April ’96 (MkI) and Beosound 9000 type

256x (MkII) produced from September ’98 simply require a software update. It is a

chip change, and although the software level may change from time to time the

part number remains the same – which is 8344087. Quote this to your dealer if

they are unsure.

BeoSound 9000 type 257x (MkIII) produced from June ’01 was released fully

compatible and therefore no need for any upgrades.

Now, for the commands on your Beo4.

From software 4.2, N.MUSIC was available via the list key (you need to add it first, see Beo 4 user guide for details – available as a download from BeoWorld if you do not have one).

If you find that N.MUSIC, N.RADIO are not available to add to your list key all is not lost, selecting A.TAPE 2 will activate N.MUSIC and PHONO will give you N.RADIO.

In terms of where to get the software I’m sure there are other options, but I’ve found OneRemote to be a really good supplier run by a great guy – I’m not affiliated in any way:

https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69110-dele-til-bo/4071-firmware-beosound-9000/

 

[LukeS]

Hi there,

the connections you are describing above are not correct. You can’t directly connect your BC9500 to the NL/ML converter – you must convert audio aux link to masterlink with a 1611 converter, then link the 1611 to the NL/ML converter via masterlink.

Guy has set out the correct connections you need. I’d only add that if you want the buttons on your BC9500 to turn on the speakers then the powerlink connection is needed (otherwise you’d have to operate it from the app).

this is the way my system is set up (although I’m using a beomaster 7000, but the principle lid the same)

with best wishes

[LukeS]

Sounds interesting ?

[LukeS]

Just checking again in case anyone has a spare for sale, or is interested in a swap

[LukeS]

As far as I’m aware the beomaster 2400 doesn’t have a powerlink or line level output. Connecting your beolab 8000s to the speaker level outputs on that amp would simply replicate the issue you had with your beomaster 8000.

[LukeS]

This looks like a great project. I’m looking for something like this with airplay 2 streaming – I guess that is a completely different technology to Bluetooth?

[LukeS]

Yes it is normal ?

[LukeS]

I’m sure you’ve already considered this, but are you using the correct powerlink cable version? This will definitely cause a hum if you use the incorrect version

[LukeS]

Apologies- Bristol’s was an autocorrect- it should have said BeoWorld!

[LukeS]

The 6000 was primarily designed as a surround speaker I believe, but it does sound surprisingly nice. For music I’d say the 4000 is a better option.

in terms of the 7.x series there is a fair bit of variation between the upright 7.4 which is a mono centre channel speaker designed primarily for handling voices/speech (a bit tinny for music without some serious eq fiddling) and the stereo 7.1, 7.2, and 7.6. These are very powerful and sound good for music and tv (I’d take the 7.2 over the 6000s). the 7.1, 7.2 and 7.6 basically are bigger versions of the same basic design and you can find specs on the BeoWolrd site I believe.

I own the 4000, 6000, 7.2 and 7.4 and like them all, although I think they probably serve different functions…

 

 

[LukeS]

I think it depends on what you want and how far down the rabbit hole you are willing to go. A 3rd party device like the light manager pro will be simplest. Your BV10 will forward light commands via masterlink if it has the right software version. None of the Beosounds made before the BS4 are able to handle light commands, but all of the beomaster 5500, 6500, 7000 range are. So if all of your equipment is in the same room you could use the BV10 to forward light commands to a Masterlink gateway (very cheap on eBay these days) or a Beolink Gateway. The BLI is probably not a good choice for you given the vintage of your equipment (it’s designed for the newer network link devices).

The MLGW and BLGW offer really powerful automation possibilities beyond light control, but as I say you’ll need to invest more time and effort. With the MLGW you’re really looking at linking it with an external automation system – I can advise further on that but from your original message I think you’d be best off with a light manager pro ?

[LukeS]

Have you tried connecting your speakers to the BM5? In your setup the system would expect to send music source output to the audio master and tv source outputs to the video master.

Alternatively you could keep the speakers connected to the nl/ml converter but then it should be set to option 2, and the bm5 to option 0. You may need an ir eye for the converter in that setup.

 

[LukeS]

Thanks again Guy – I can confirm I followed all the procedures in the service manual. I repeated the swap to test, giving a couple of minutes before selecting a source with the same results.

It seems Foxtrott might have the answer – the 3.4 software may simply be incompatible with my system, which is a small clamper model, but with the linear rather than radial arm cd system.

thanks all for your help. Looks like I’ll be selling it. Shame as it is a nice little stereo!

[LukeS]

Dear all – many thanks for all your help so far

I’ve put the original software back and the CD works again. So it seems the issue is comparability of SW3.4 with my drive or some other software element. As I said mine is type number 2672 – do I have any hope of getting it to work with the later software? As I say it really has to allow option 6 to be of any use in my setup.

[LukeS]

Thanks all – I’ll try that and report back – thanks for all your help

[LukeS]

Thanks all – I’ve entered test mode and looked at the readout under option 27, which does indicate a CD focus error. All the other elements are ok.

I can’t enter CD test mode as pressing CD locks up the unit as usual.

looks like I need a new laser ?

[LukeS]

many thanks for a good suggestion- unfortunately when operating stand alone it’s exactly the same

[LukeS]

The BLC itself seems a solid product – no complaints at all on mine. I primarily use it to link older MLC and ML equipment with modern NL beovisions. For this it works flawlessly and reliably once set up properly. There is a specific order you need to power things up, so if there is a power cut then you may need to re-initialise things. Aside from that no big problems if your main use case is controlling things with a BEO or beoremote one.

I’ve had less positive experience with the app, but that isn’t my use case anyway, and others have said more recent versions of the app work better (I’ve not tried).

in my honest view the BLC has been one of the best B&O products I’ve purchased over the years.Takes a bit of time to understand and configure but worth getting if you want to integrate older products in your setup.

 

[LukeS]

Just to say the B&O app has always been quite flakey with my ml/nl converter. I’m not a big user of the app, but interested to hear how you get on. Good luck ?

[Author]

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