Loudspeaker
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you only need to unclip the frame on the sides to be able to remove it by sliding it upwards. I think I’ve seen the same YouTube video and mentioning that you have to flip up the top part of the frame to be able to remove it is completely wrong. It will only result in unnecessarily breaking the clips holding it in place.
The clips on the sides are a bit hard to disengage, but it can be done by carefully, but firmly pressing the front towards the speaker with one hand while pulling the angled section away from the backside with the other hand. Start from the top and bottom and move towards the centre of the speaker. You will hear a distinct click once the clips disengage.
Once you’ve slid the frame back on, you have to press the front the same way as before and “massage” the angled section around the edge to allow the clips to engage by pushing directly where the clips are with your thumb. This can also be a bit tricky, which is probably why they are often seen sticking out, as many don’t know how to get them to sit correctly again.
You have to tell the TV, that you have connected a subwoofer to it.
Take a look at page 43.
/Dennis
There’s a guy in Denmark offering a repair service for IcePower-equipped speakers. You can find his website here: https://www.juhltec.dk/
The list price for the repair of a BeoLab 3 is 1620 DKK which equals to 216€ including VAT.
I don’t have any personal experience with him, but he is often referred to in different Bang & Olufsen groups on Facebook when it comes to IcePower-related problems.
If you have the courage to do some troubleshooting yourself, you could try swapping the modules between the working and faulty speakers to find the faulty module. But be aware of the risk of damaging the working modules! It shouldn’t be done without inspecting the modules for obvious signs of damage beforehand. And it is essential to take precautionary measures to prevent electrostatic discharge.
If the IcePower-modules are faulty, it would probably be cheaper to buy a BeoLab 7-1 or 7-2. They are equipped with three of the same IcePower modules you’ll find in one BeoLab 3. There are different versions/revisions of the module and I’m not sure if all of them are interchangeable, but I have three BeoLab 3s with faulty IcePower modules myself and have succesfully used a verD module in place of verE for troubleshooting.
Hi Rob
You should be able to find the user guide for your TV here. (Link to support.bang-olufsen.com)
/Dennis
Back in August I bought a pair of BeoLab 12-3s, which then replaced my Beolab 8000 MK3s. I’ve yet to do a side-by-side comparison, but the 12-3s are without doubt a better speaker to my ears. The 8000s desperately need a subwoofer as the fabric moving in front of the bass port is audible to the point, that the speakers are useless when turning up the volume a little more than usual. The sealed cabinet design, dedicated midrange drivers and acoustic lenses of the 12s also make them superior to the 8000s IMO, and the two 6,5” bass drivers per speaker deliver a decent about of bass.
I do have a BeoLab 2 to handle the lower frequencies though, and as rear speakers I use a pair of BeoLab 3s. I did have a BeoLab 11 for a short period of time a couple of years ago and would like to try one out again with the 12s. I preferred the 11 over the 2 when listening to music, but one of them had to go back then.
/Dennis
I recently acquired a couple of remotes more in the form of these Beo4 hotel versions. I’m still missing at least one of the consumer versions of the Beo4 (DTV + V.AUX), but I have most of the regular versions now. Still looking for some of them in better condition though. And there are many different hotel versions, so the collection is far from complete.
The Cinema looks to have been used regularly, but a mint one is probably not easy to find. A mint Play-version should be fairly easy though. I have a Beo5 as well.
I also bought a Beo1 and my first BeoRemote One.
/Dennis
I have found one for sale at Bremdal Radio:
If 2751029 is the serial number, it most likely isn’t a preproduction unit though. This is quite interesting on the other hand, as this suggests, that it was possibly to buy these with wooden trim back in the days; a rumour I haven’t been able prove before finding this one for sale some time ago.
Added another couple of items to my collection of preproduction units yesterday. These fit in nicely with the other items I have from the same model range as they fill in some of the gaps between the earlier samples and units from the final production in terms of changes made during the development stage.
As some of you might know, I have a Beogram 3000 with orange text named ‘Beogram 5005’, a Beogram CD 50 with built-in control panel and a Beomaster and Beocord 5000 named 4000 with wooden trim and a different front panel design.
The newly acquired Beomaster 5000 has rosewood trim on the sides as well.
This CD 50 didn’t come with the fancy built-in control panel though, but upon closer inspection it isn’t identical with the ‘normal’ sample I have.
The CD 50 with control panel is quite a different beast on the inside. It was based on an Aiwa DX-1000 whereas the final model was based on an Aiwa DX-1200 according to this website, where a detailed comparison between the two CD 50s can be found.
The one I picked up yesterday doesn’t differ nearly as much from the production-version as far as I can tell. The display is bit different though and it looks like it might still feature a repeat function, which the production-version doesn’t seem to have as far as I can tell from the owners manual, but I have yet to use a CD 50, so I’m not entirely sure.
The production-version:
The early prototype:
The early protype has additional functions shown to the left of the segment display:
The newly acquired unit:
I’m still on the hunt for a Beogram 5000 with rosewood trim – it would be even nicer to find one named Beogram 4000. The seller had a red labelled Beogram 5000 as well but without wooden trim. That one he intented to use instead of his TX2, so it wasn’t for sale.
very interesting findings! Well done!
I have a BeoVision 7-40 MK6 (Type 7741) as well with exacly the same fault, so I will try to dismantle it at some point and hopefully be able to repair it as well.
So as I understand it, there was no additional fault after all? But you are missing the correct value of the faulty capacitor?
/Dennis
