kronzilla
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Hello Pindsen. The lasers in the cd-pro and cdm12 and vau are only lasting 6k hours. So you want to replace the laser in the CD-pro module. (The swing arm lasers in older music systems are lasting 60k hours so ten times as much )
You can send me a pm and i could order a laser for you, i’m living in Belgium. Can send it to you then? Did you replaced a laser in a CD-pro module? You need to be precautious, so wearing an esd wristband and using an antistatic mat, to prevent damage to the dac board or the laser…
you find them here: https://www.beoparts-shop.com/
Beste Ernstkleine, wat is er verkeerd met je 9300 als ik mag vragen?
Beste Jan,
welke versie heb jij, de originele met de oudere woofers, waarbij 1 woofer geschakeld is als middentoner, dus een drieweg systeem of is het een mk1 die je wil upgraden naar mk2?
hello Christian, could you post a photo without the stick? if the paper cone is not damaged, you can cut and clean the foam around, and glue a new surround on it, let it drie upside down, you can reallign the spider when you glued the outside of the cone to the inside of the surround, and after that you can try to reallign the speaker untill you don’t hear a scraping sound anymore, but just glue diagonally, when it is drie, you do the oppisite , untill you had the whole speaker done. I think i still have pix of a glued- refoamed woofer that i did in the past (think a little bit bigger) I used clothespins and pieces of foam to press the edges against the metal chassis.
If you want the pix i can send them, but think they are too big to upload here
Hello, or it could be that the volume of the rear channels is too low?
Actually, the laser us not dead. On the control pcb there need ti replaced some capacitoes with exact same value,low esr, Panasonic, Elna, Nichicon.. and maybe re-adjusting tle laser current a little bit. That is all. But you need a technician who can do it for the cdm4 laser. I had let it done for a cd5000 and a cd7000 and sounding like new. They had the same problem, reading problems. Thise lasers are extremely durable ( about 60-100k hours ( cdpro lasers lasting inly 6000h)and de sound is still natural, organic, with the grand dad if the dac’s ( philips 16bit tda1541) i would NOT suggest to set the current of the laser if you don’t kniw what to do. They are dead with esd-disharge. But they ladt very long, and the playets are build like a tank. AMark Levinson players are junk compared with these fantastic tank build technique ?
Actually, refoaming surrounds is not that difficult. The smaller the speakers the more easy it is. It is little more difficult with de-centered spider of a woofer.
My first pair was with big Philips woofers, alot of patience and precise work, and they working perfectly, refoaming the midtoners are actually very easily to do.
Maybe after al these years, when you are busy, if you are adjusting the idle-current of the amplifier to the service manual, it is not a bad idea to check if the values of the other amplifier are the same. So the current of each speaker has the same value.
Indeed it is better to replace the bipolar caps with the Audyn mkp’s.
If the surrounds are in good shape (but at that age you get foam rot, so better let them refoamed or refoam them by yourself) , and you still don’t like the sound after the mod, maybe you could sell them to give them another good home, but don’t modify them, the value will not getting better after the mod. (it’s like throuwing the baby away with the bath water) because it is vintage B&O and such nice products must be treated with respect and not messing around with them. ( i find the value of the vintage products higher than the newer products, but that is my opinion).
Or you can try another amplifier. Wich amplifier do you use? Maybe the problem is not the speaker?
You should still try to restore them because they are still fantastic sounding devices.
Je hebt wel geluk. Meestal zijn er printbanen op de versterker print en transfo print aangevreten. Met de originele zwarte foam zijn ze een tijdbom.
Super dat je ervan kan genieten. Ik gazien om van mijn mk1’s een mk2 abl te maken omdat die wel verl voller klinken.
Het blijven mooie speakers die stijlvol compact zijn, zeker voor het geluidsbeeld die ze geven. Ze klinken beter gedetailleerd dan passieve ( in mijn living heb ik een beosystem 7000 op rl60.2 en in mijn keuken een bc9500 op de bl8000. In de bass kome ze wel te kort maar quadetaillering in het geluidsbeeld zijn ze super. Ik heb geen behoefte aan edn sub, aangezien dit weer extra resonantie teweegbrengt in huis en dinge. Die niet vaststaan gaan dan meetrillen ?.
Looks very nice. I discovered, the chrome speakers looking much nicer with the wooden frets. Wirh the black covers they looking outdated. I have a black pair and that pair looks good with the original covers.
How can i obtain the files to make the fronts? I don’t know nothing about 3d printing but gonna ask a friend.
Not totally correct. The rl140 used foam surrounds, and the rl7000 rubber surrounds.
If you compare the crossover they are the same.
But the rl60 has a passive membrane and the rl60 w has a bassreflex.
Im gonna refoam my rl140’s with rubber you and not with foam. If the flexibility for both surrounds is the same, just take the most durable ones…lesser sensitive to temperature and moist fluctuations. Ok
Kan zijn dat de clamper op de spindel van de laser of de magnetische clamper beschadigd is/gebarsten… en zo je cds beschadigt. Best momenteel niet meer gebruiken tot het opgelost is
aus technischer sicht sind mk1 und 2 gleichwertig. mk2 ABL (alias mk3) ist jedoch anders. (ab sn 20xxx) der lautsprecher klingt einfach viel voller und tiefer in den niedrigen frequenzen.
für die neueste Version verlangen sie rund 1500 €, für das mk2 900 €. aber ein gewartetes Paar mk1 ist billiger und klingt genauso wie das teurere mk2
Ik kan er anders ook voor je naar kijken. Ik woon ook in Belgie, Brugge. Je kiest wat het gemakkelijkst lijkt.
