Guy
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld! We don’t get many questions about Beo1/BV1 so it is nice to see a new challenge!
I am not aware of any procedure for pairing the remote, or for telling the TV which remote to respond to.
However, this old thread may be of use – it explains how to get a Beo1 to behave like a Beo4, which I suppose could solve your problem: https://archivedforum.beoworld.co.uk/forums/t/29071.aspx?PageIndex=1
EDIT: Can I just check that this is the Beo1 to which you refer, rather than the newer (and very different) BeoRemote One?
Just a quick thought, have you tried selecting N.RADIO with the remote, and this could be the BC2’s radio source if using DAB?
Excellent work – you must have kept comprehensive notes from all the testing that you have been doing, and it’s great to see it presented so clearly!
In the New Year I will have a more comprehensive look through all the combinations, but I really should prioritise looking for a new house to buy so I can settle down and use some of these setups for real.
Many thanks indeed for putting these together for the benefit of all!
The new Core connected to the Celestials is all you need–assuming you already have an amplifier such as BeoAmp 2 to provide them power.
If BeoAmp 2 is too pricey, then don’t rule out a second-hand Beolink Passive – you would just need the correct cable from the Core’s RJ45 to the Passive’s Powerlink input (8 pin DIN). Sounds Heavenly (link at bottom of page) should be able to supply.
Welcome back!
Yes that’s how it will perform with a standard DIN input (pins 3 and 5) to the BL1611’s AAL socket – only VIDEO source selection will activate the input.
Have a look at this post (and thread) and you will see that the BL1611 can accept an AUDIO input but only if connected to pins 1 and 4 of the DIN AAL input: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/4/#post-14017
It’s a very useful solution for a double input to BL3500 etc.
That sounds like the BL3500 is not getting a ‘valid’ input.
Try pressing MENU 09 GO and checking that ML is switched on, as described in this post by madskp: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beolab-3500-does-not-work-in-masterlink/#post-22054
PS: I think I recognise your username from the archived forum, but if you are indeed new here then welcome to Beowrold!!
I see. Maybe try an eARC audio extractor as discussed in this thread: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/sound-control-from-lg-tv-to-beomaster-6500-not-possible/
But I am not sure if the audio processing delay will cause delay/lip-sync problems. To avoid further delay, you would have to use in conjunction with the Beolink Converter 1611 as suggested by Steve in that first thread I linked.
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Have a quick look at this thread and then come back if you have further questions, I am sure we can help: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beomaster-5-a-aux-source/
En route to BeoWorld HQ
Have a good trip! Hope it doesn’t involve Eurostar or Eurotunnel? ?
Eventually sttled on a BV 10-32 in black and in excellent condition.
Good choice – that’s what I have as my main (only) TV. I am happy with the sound but our living room is quite small. Mine’s hooked up to an Apple TV 4K controlled via STB/PUC.
So here are the three similar looking (but very different) devices that I have discussed above:
Left to right: BeoLink Active, Beolink Video, Beolink Converter
Click on the photo to enlarge so that you can read the labels:
And you need the one on the right – here’s a close up of the label: (you also need to check that the Type Number is 1611 as shown)
I had to replace Beo Converter 1611 (PC, PowerLink, IR, Master Link) on Beo Converter 1615 (AAL Audio Aux Link, Master Link) because the previous one did not have an input: AAL.
Firstly the ‘Beo Converter 1611 (PC etc)’ that you mention was actually a Beolink Active – this Active is the only device that I know of with a PC input.
Secondly, a ‘Beo Converter 1615’ is not the correct device (although it does indeed have an AAL socket) – what you have is actually a ‘Beolink Video Type 1615’ designed for a different purpose, and it even has the Powerlink socket blanked off.
You need to find a BeoLink Converter Type 1611 – check the label carefully to make sure that you are buying the correct device. I will post a photo of the label in a moment.
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I am slightly confused by what you want to achieve! The Passive does not work as a stand-alone amplifier (without a powerlink input trigger) so at the very least you will need the Beogram to be connected to a Beomaster/Beosound first, not least to control volume. Then you could connect the Beomaster/Beosound output to a Passive via Powerlink.
You could simply connect the Beogram to the BS3000 aux input, and then connect the BS3000 powerlink output to a Passive.
Alternatively, you could connect your Beogram to the AAL input of a BeoLink Converter Type 1611, then masterlink that to a Passive input. If you then connect an IR eye to the Passive you will be able to switch on/off and control volume by selecting a Video input with a remote. You will not be able to remote control the Beogram, so that will be manual-only.
As stated by Hiort in the other BV11 thread, the service manual is available on site to Gold and Silver Members, so you’ll be able to download it if you upgrade your membership.
Have a look here: https://beoworld.co.uk/what.asp
If you find that N.MUSIC, N.RADIO are not available to add to your list key all is not lost, selecting A.TAPE 2 will activate N.MUSIC and PHONO will give you N.RADIO.
As an aside, on newer Beo4 NAVIs you may find that you can add the following to the LIST button:
USB is the same as A.TAPE2/N.MUSIC
DOCK is the same as PHONO/N.RADIO
This thread has reminded me that my in-laws had their BC9500 connected to two sets of passive speakers, in their case RL60.2s and CX50s. The CX50s were in a seperate room but for some reason they didn’t want an MCL sensor on the wall!! A speaker switch selected RL60s, CX50s or both.
Anyway, I disconnected the system when they moved house and realised that the speakers were connected in series from the speaker 1 sockets. The selector switch (DPDT, centre off) effectively ‘shorted out’ the speaker pair that was not being used. The centre position meant both pairs of speakers were driven in series. Obviously impedance varied according to the switch setting but the system worked well!
Here’s a scruffy schematic to explain!
I should add that the switch was fitted by the local B&O dealer when they purchased the system. The BC9500 spkr 2 socket was also being used to supply a couple of MCL2 link rooms.
How would the relative loudness between the front and rear speakers be controlled with a either a Beolab speaker or Passive solution?
They couldn’t, unless it was set up as a pseudo linkroom (by adding a BL1611 and and an IR eye to the Passive, which would then have to be put in L.OPT 4 so that it could only be controlled by pressing LINK first on the Beo4.)
But then RossJP is currently unable to control relative volume, but can of course Mute the speakers connected to the Spkr 1 output. If I was using the Passive setup (not with BL1611 etc), I would connect the 5700s to the BC9500 spkr 2 output. Mute would then work on the PL output to the Passive and other speaker pair, enabling them to be turned off whilst leaving the 5700s running*.
EDIT: This would be a bit messy to use because every time you then adjusted the volume control the BC9500 would unmute!!
An observation: If you disconnect the ML cable after initiating the BL Active with PC, the source will continue to play and you can adjust volume using remote or IR puck buttons, but you cannot turn off using either remote or buttons.
