Guy
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Have you tried connecting your turntable directly to the BC9500’s phono socket (without adding your pre-amp)? What happens then?
The Beocenter 9500 shouldn’t need a pre-amp as it has one built in for the phono input. But I would expect an overloaded/distorted output with 2 RIAA pre amps, not low sound.
Also, this doesn’t explain why it doesn’t work when connected to AUX. Does the Beocenter work in all other respects, and have you tried another source into Aux?
Mine does exactly that but only for some CDs, so I put up with it! I found it works best with older CDs from my collection, for some reason. Have you tried a variety of CDs? Was a CD inserted when you ran test mode (I think it should be).
An un-educated guess would be problems with capacitors on the servo board – this it what causes similar disc-reading problems in other B&O CD players. Hopefully someone with Beosound 1 experience will be able to help further.
The service manual isn’t much help as it just recommends board replacement!
Yes that should work. The MCL2P would take both L and R rear signals from the TV and send to the respective speakers. I think you’ll need a Powerlink Mk2 cable between TV and MCL2P in order to get power on/off and muting.
I don’t think you’ll find BeoVox3000 in the BV7’s speaker menu, so you’ll have to experiment with other speaker choices to get the best sound, at an appropriate level.
I wouldn’t discount a Playmaker. You can pick these up quite cheaply second-hand and they of course have built in trigger for Powerlink speakers via an RJ45 to PL cable.
^ Thanks to trackbeo for bringing in details from the other two (now closed) Balenciaga threads. Next time we have duplicate threads I’ll instead try ‘merging’ them to bring content together. Apologies to MM and Mr10Percent for not doing so in this case – I’m new to this moderation business! ?
I’ll close this thread so that future comments can be placed in a single thread (with the product name in the title) here: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/new-product-balenciaga-x-level/
I do realise that this thread is placed in ‘General Discussion and Questions’, and the other in ‘Beoworld People and Lifestyle’, but this niche product would seem more suited to the latter! PM me if you disagree!
Thanks for your understanding ?
I just formatted the above post just so that the quote was separated from the post!
I assume that the post above was tongue in cheek, but the fact that we have three threads on the same subject does reduce the forum’s usefulness somewhat!
TBH, I favour trackbeo’s initial post because he had the good sense to include the product name in the title. The two subsequent threads brought content and comment that should have been added to the first.
I’ll close this thread now.
Can you find a part number somewhere, search for another brand TV in which the panel is used and then find a YouTube video to explain dismantling the panel itself?
I have just dismantled the panel in a edge-lit Samsung 32″ TV to try to fix a backlighting problem. In my case it’s actually unrepairable as the light diffuser sheet is cracked giving internal reflections. If it had simply been an LED problem it would have been an easy fix, hence well worth attempting.
In the Samsung I had to disconnect a couple of ribbon connectors from the timing controller to the LCD screen, unclip all around the screen and then the LCD panel simply pulled away to expose the LED edge strip (and diffuser sheet behind).
I couldn’t find my exact model, but here’s an example of one of the many videos that I referred to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h433tokO1U
EDIT: This video was also quite useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77tymvTJDxo
Funny that I should still appear as a bronze member Guy, by the way
I’ll raise it to Keith – I think there has been a fair amount of manual input required regarding membership status on transition to the new forum.
EDIT: Now sorted thanks to Keith!
Thanks guys! I will reference the schems. It’s 117v, North America version I found some circuit board pics here, too: http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/REFERENCES/Bangandolufsen/Bang%20&%20Olufsen%20CD5500%20CD%20player.html I see some caps and those 2 large things that look like solonoids?
The full CD5500 service manual (incl 120V US version) is available on the site for Silver and Gold members, if that helps!
Great video thanks Steve! ?
I suspect that I have nearly as many Beocoms – lots of charity shop ‘finds’ from when I lived in Denmark! The rest of my B&O collection sadly doesn’t compare … ?
^ You actually only need to add V.SETUP. It will only be available when on a ‘video’ source (TV, DTV, V.MEM or DVD), hence the need for the blocking procedure mentioned above. The other sub-options (TUNE etc) are added automatically.
Hence if I add V.SETUP to one of my Beo4s, and when on a video source press LIST to show V.SETUP and then press GO. Pressing LIST again will then cycle through TUNE, PICTURE, STORE, CLEAR, BASS, TREBLE, LOUDNSS and S.STORE.
EDIT: For completeness and future reference: In a similar manner, you can add A.SETUP which (for audio sources) will give you just BASS, TREBLE, LOUDNSS and S.STORE.
As far as I know CAMERA is not possible using BL1000. The Camera socket is suppose to ‘auto sense’ and switch to that input, but I never got that to work on my BV6-26 or 6-23.
Any chance that you could move the Nintendo to the DVI/PC input and then access using BL1000 by pressing SHIFT then STORE?
The usual mute relay symptom is that the output cuts in and out according to the load. It is caused by oxidation of the contacts rather than a purely mechanical relay problem.
Are you sure that it’s from the Beocenter and not another project? I don’t recognise it from having dismantled mine (but I have the earlier single-belt tape deck) and I can’t see anything similar in the Service Manual’s limited exploded parts diagram.
Have you checked the mute relay? This is usually the culprit when the speaker 2 outputs are working fine.
Some BV10-32 stand information (in English, sorry!)
As far as I know there are two ‘official’ B&O stands for the BV10-32. I have owned both.
The Type 4707 is the motorised floor stand. The top of the TV will be at 96cm from the floor, like this:
This is the stand without the TV mounted:
The other is the Type 4710 which is the motorised table stand. I used one of these on the floor initially for my BV10-32, but found it to be too low (about 20cm lower than the floor stand, from memory). Here is the one I had, but sold:
I think that STB brackets sell fixed (non-motorised) stands but they are very expensive new and rare second-hand.
I recommend the type 4707 floor stand. I have used additional brackets to attach an Apple TV to mine behind the BV10-32.
Great result – thanks for letting us know and fingers crossed that the system behaves from now on!?
There’s no volume control on the pre-amp output, so you’ll need to find another solution. (EDIT: Actually there is volume control of pre-amp – I was thinking of line- out! Hence this should be useable for Beolabs))
Have a read of the second part of Steve’s response here: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beomaster-3000-naar-powerlink/#post-5835
You could use the speaker 2 sockets (via attenuator) for the Beolabs. Be aware that the BeoCenter’s ‘Mute’ control would only work for the speaker 1 pair in such a setup, and does not mute the ‘pre-amp’ output.
I am sure that Steve will be along in a minute to confirm the correct cables!
