Guy
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I did not expect the 15V cable to be gray, but what do you know. On the other hand these connectors was also used on the Beolit power supplies so they might have had plenty in stock.
The connectors are actually a little strange – the external contact has a small plastic sleeve on it that will slide up and down. I am not sure of the purpose, but it does need a bit of force to push it into the MCL2P socket, whereupon there is a positive ‘click’ once fully inserted:
I had a quick play with the BC2300 last night. It’s a Type 2612 SW1.4 version (one-way IR) with the linear (straight line) CD laser movement. Mixed results:
- Door opened and closed fine first time – very smooth and small gap between panels when closed. Door motion sensors are working fine – less sensitive than my older 2-way BC2300.
- All keyboard buttons work fine – this was my first ever B&O fix when I fitted a new contact foil back in 2010.
- FM and AM radio work fine – FM presets were still stored from 12 years ago and no problems with FM offset (checked with known stations).
- Display a bit dim – but I have seen how to adjust contrast in a YouTube video, hence may attempt this.
- CD not working!!! It tries to play and then I get the < > (no disc) display. I took the back off and put it in test mode. The CD tests all run smoothly will the laser coming on, trying to focus and full linear movement up/down. Trying to play CD in TESTMODE then gives a Focus Error 2. I’ll investigate further but possibly hijack your Ouverture CD thread, as I think it’s the same CD module. In the meantime here’s a picture with the rear cover removed:
Very intererested to hear about the testing of the bottle opener and if that will bring interesting findings
Sadly this will have to wait a few days due to my engaging in a silly concept known as ‘Dry January’! ?
So yesterday on a visit to my Mother-In-Law I ventured into the loft and retrieved just a few of the 12-year storage items – they actually all belong to my son but there’s no room in his current flat: (ignore the barometer, that’s from another loft!)
And inside the boxes found:
MCL2P with Original Instructions and the 15v cable for powering MCL2AV, plus bottle opener!
Some cables!
Some remotes (needed more of those! ?)
Plus the BC2300 in great external/cosmetic condition
All will be carefully tested over next few days and I will report back any interesting findings!
Another way to modernise your system is to add a OneRemote product. Have a look at their offerings here: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69094-digital-radio-solutions-for-bo/
I used an older OneRemote Radio with my BC9500 which was connected to a link room with MCL. My OneRemote radio could use datalink for control, so I could control the radio from the link room. I think that their newer radios may require direct IR control from a B&O remote in the main room, but I am not totally sure on this! If you send them an email and explain your current setup and what you want to achieve, they are very helpful and will let you know what is possible. Their latest Radio PL7 would add DAB+, Internet Radio, Spotify and lots more features, all controllable from a Smart Phone and B&O remote.
First of all, the BS4 does not support Dab+.
However, if you are in the UK (which I presume), that should not be a problem….as far as I know there are several Dab stations available there (?).
Most UK radio broadcasts are DAB rather than DAB+. However, there do seem to be a few stations migrating to the newer DAB+ format; ‘Classic FM’ did so on 1 Jan 24 (I still think it’s funny that they have ‘FM’ in their station title, but they do broadcast on FM as well.) And for some reason the BBC use DAB+ in the Channel Islands of Guernsey and Jersey, plus parts of Cumbria.
What do you think?
I had a quick look at some (Ifixit) teardown images and I agree – central for both ATV2 and 3. But perhaps @greg could confirm what position he is ‘unsticking’ his Apple TV3 IR emitter from?
There’s some confusing information out there, not helped by 2nd/3rd gen nomenclature referring to earlier and later (4K) models!!
Do you think this is about right?
Looks good to me thanks – I have stored a copy for future reference! I have just slightly amended my earlier post because I originally thought the ATV4 HD was slightly less thick than the 4K Gen 1/2, but your Apple-sourced dimensions are indeed correct.
Here’s a picture of my ATV 4K 3rd Gen with IR emitter fitted and status light glowing. It’s loosely lodged in the ATV4 HD bracket, since replaced:
EDIT: In case anyone’s wondering, the IR emitter is actually stuck to a piece of black card with a small hole in it to let the IR transmissions through. The card is then taped to the ATV. I did this because in a previous use of the IR emitter I had it attached to one of two Humax set-top boxes and needed to shield/block IR signals from the ‘wrong’ remote, if that makes sense!
Apple tv 4:
Height: 1.2 inches (31 mm)
Width: 3.66 inches (93 mm)
Depth: 3.66 inches (93 mm)Apple TV 4 (HD, 4K 1st Gen and 4K 2nd Gen) were in fact larger than Apple TV 3 (12mm thicker). It is only the very latest 4K 3rd Gen that has shrunk, but is still thicker than Apple TV 3, as your comparison shows.
The question was mainly about if a Tape Out signal can be used to send around the house with a Core.
In that case, yes! ?
That’s right, sorry, both are integrated amps. The one I am currently looking at (and its mainly aesthetic) is a Holfi audis, which as far as I can see only has a Tape Out as potential connector to the Core.
There’s not much documentation around for those amps, but I am 99% sure that the Tape Out will be fixed volume. Hence you will have to control volume using the Core.
If you did want to use the volume control on the Holfi, you could try something like this: https://soundsheavenly.com/line-in-connection/33-power-amplifier-to-beolab-line-in-attenuated-convertor-kit.html
… but I would check with Steve first that the converter is suitable.
Be aware that the IR sensor is in a different location on the Apple TV HD A1625 version. It’s just to the left of the status light. See answer here with photo: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/253560611?answerId=256663690022&sortBy=best#256663690022
The Apple TV 3rd gen (A1427 or A1469) had the sensor opposite the status light.
The even newer Apple TV 4K originally had the sensor opposite the status light (1st and 2nd gen) but it is now central (3rd gen).
EDIT: And if your Apple TV HD has the original siri remote (without the white circle around the MENU button) then you should be able to use the siri remote to control the volume of your Beoplay V1 – read all about this here: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/apple-tv-siri-remotes-and-ir-beovision/
I suppose I could use a Beolink Active with a powerlink to the Active (presume you mean Passive? – Guy) and a splitter but that wouldn’t save me reducing the number of units in standby.
But the BL Active will not actually produce a 5V output until it is turned on using its own IR input, so I am not sure that would work. Perhaps you could use a 5v trigger from the source audiomaster/videomaster?
Now I was looking to change my preamp (which is actually a normal integrated amp of which I use the headphone out of) to another one which only has Tape Out as an output (besides speaker outputs).
I am slightly confused by the bit in bold – a pre-amp would not usually have speaker outputs, so is the ‘new’ pre-amp also a normal integrated amp?
Tape Out would usually be a fixed line-level output – allowing recording level to be adjusted at the destination. As such, it ‘should’ be suitable as a line-level input to the core.
Perhaps post the make/model of the new ‘pre-amp’ to be sure?
Looking at the circuit diagram, the answer is no.
There is a permanent 5v at pin 6 of the IR socket, if that’s any use?
I added the photographs of the wiring of a RJ45 to DIN 8pin cable to a previous post.
Thanks for posting those – looks to be a good quality cable.
Searching back through the archives the only other suggestion for repair is to reflow some of the solder joints on the laser unit – this is a bit vague but I suppose could account for the earlier intermittent fault.
I too would be very interested to find a definite replacement laser for the BeoSound 1 – hopefully a forum member can point us in the right direction.
I sent a message to Beoparts last night to ask if their replacement laser here would fit. The response was as follows:
Seeing as different CD disc drives were used during production, there is only one
way to tell, and that is to look at your laser module and compare to the photos
of our laser module. They must be identical.During my searches I did find a photo showing a VAU1255/21 fitted to a BeoSound 1, but this specific model number seems equally difficult to find!
Thanks Glitch – that’s very useful!
It’s only one of the BC2300s that has been in an attic, and I will try to get hold of it next week and see what condition it’s in. I think there are some Redline 60.2s up there as well!
Good tip about the battery sockets; I don’t think the BC9500 would have room for a socket in the original battery location but I could relocate for ease of access. The BC2300s should be more straightforward with enough room under the microprocessor cover (I think it’s identical to the Ouverture picture that you posted in the FM tuner thread).
Do you have a recommended battery socket with pins that match the PCB hole spacing?
As far as the equipment use affecting battery life, I think that it is dependent on the specific design. I’ve seen some designs where the battery powers the memory backup regardless of the power status of the equipment.
My mother-in-law had a habit of turning her BC9500 off at the wall every night, and the battery failed when it was about 20 years old. My BC9500 (permanently powered until storage) was still on the original battery.
I thought that I was going to be searching for a new laser when I bought a faulty BeoSound 1 three weeks ago. However, I used the Service Mode to run a few checks and the fault seemed to clear – I have tested the CD daily since without problems.
My post here refers: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/what-are-you-working-on-now/page/6/#post-28042
If you don’t have SHIFT currently on your Beo4, the easy way to enter service mode is to use the buttons on the BS1 control panel and press DELETE DELETE STOP STOP STORE. Then use the Beo4 to select CD, and then the number of the test listed.
Amazon!, 5 pack, here tomorrow
With PCB pins? (Or does the Ouverture battery simply slide in without soldering required?)
Guy, strangely, I have a dead BC9300 here, I had proposed spares or repair for it, so it is looking like spares currently!
What’s wrong with it? That also has a CR2450 lithium battery which may need replacement.
And here’s a potential source for the battery – I have replaced one in a BC9500: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003
I did all this as you said today and for the moment everything seems to be working perfectly. I’ll wait a little bit to be sure that everything is in order and i’ll note the thread as solved.
Great news – hopefully it will stay working. One further thing that I have just remembered is that sometimes it can be worth leaving a remote disassembled for a couple of days (i.e all six nuts/bolts undone and pulled apart) to allow the contact foil ‘poppers’ to return to an uncompressed (normal) state.
I got a Beo4 Navi where the lowest part of the remote doesn’t feel right. I have cleaned it and everything seems perfect before reassembling. I’ll try loosening the nuts.
There’s nothing quite like the nice ‘click’ or ‘pop’ you feel when pressing any button on a brand new Beo4 remote! Sometimes it’s quite difficult to replicate. When replacing the contact foil you can usually tighten the nuts a bit more and you do manage to replicate that ‘as new’ feeling. You can also get away with having the PCB nuts quite loose because the design of the Beo4 still allows you to ‘pull’ the top plate (and rubber keyboard) downwards and flush with the black casing when re-assembling and tightening the 4 screws on the back.
I do wonder what the official B&O guidance is for Beo4 keyboard nut tightening! ?
