Guy
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And guess what? i saved a key! Now the speaker starts, still with a video source key (TV, SAT, V.TAPE, CDV…), but without the need to press the AV key before. Just what I was looking for.
Great news – let’s hope it stays that way!
PS: With ref to your earlier question:
Regarding ML or MCL mode does this apply even to MK2 speakers?
I did reply earlier but it disappeared! Yes I think it does apply to Mk2 speakers. I stumbled upon this thread with the help of Google Translate: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/45513/329811.aspx
A late night thought: Are you 100% sure that the BL3500 is going into L.OPT 6? Is there feedback in the display?
If not, are you sure that the BL3500 is in ML mode? Press MENU MENU 0 9 GO* then use up down arrow to select the ML option and press GO again. Power down for 5 mins then re-do L.OPT 6 setting.
(* Might be MENU MENU 9 GO – without the extra 0 before 9)
As an aside, with your Beo4 you can probably also add ‘A DVD2’ or ‘A V.AUX’ to the LIST button, and then use to turn on the BL3500. This may give you something more acceptable than TV on the BL3500 screen!
Yes indeed! I may as well open a few of those boxes as we are not moving house imminently – waiting for house prices to fall further before we buy …
I added those ASNUT and VSNUT cables to a basket at OneRemote but they wanted €72 postage to UK!!!
As an aside, did you ever here further from francoisvl? His post suggested a ‘one button’ solution. https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beolab-3500-how-to-fix-ml-input-selection/#post-4665
Could be worth a PM if he is not often on the forum.
Cables are VSNUT and ASNUT. Cables being all the same price I wonder if it’s a marketing trick or if there simply something in the socket, like a resistor between the two datalink pins, that fools the converter.
I’ve often wondered about those two cables! I have a OneRemote internet radio and considered connecting it to my BV10-32 via a 1611 converter. Their website suggests that an ASNUT cable is required, but I really don’t understand why I can’t connect it straight to a 1611’s AUX socket.
If I can find my 1611, an ML cable and an AUX cable I may experiment in the coming days!
I’ve read the Powerlink socket just carry the trigger signal for use in certain configurations. What if I send him a 5v when powering it on? Wouldn’t make it think it is connected in an audio config?
My understanding is that the 1611’s PL connection is for volume data. If you have a BC2300 in A.OPT 0 connected via a 1611 converter to a TV in V.OPT 2 (i.e only the TV has speakers connected), you need the PL connection so the BC2300’s keypad volume control will operate. (Remembering that the BC2300’s AUX output is a fixed line level).
It is worth experimenting with connecting your (MCL-era) BC2300 to the 1611, this just needs a 7 pin DIN from AUX to the 1611 (no PL connection is required).
If it’s in the same room, put the BC2300 in A.OPT 0 first to avoid double IR commands, and then see how the BL3500 behaves with various Option Settings.
The 1611 auto-configures to a video- or audio-master when power is applied, so maybe you can spoof the 1611 into reconfiguring and then disconnect your BC2300 and connect the other source? However, you are taking a risk by making/breaking connections whilst power is applied.
matador wrote:
Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?Not sure! I read somewhere that when Beo4 is in permanent LINK mode, you have to then press LINK to send a ‘normal’ command. I will test this now …
Tested, and the answer is …. NO it doesn’t work! In permanent LINK mode the only thing I could control (even pressing LINK first) was my lights (and that is via Lightmanager Pro).
EDIT: But all the traditional commands will work for the product that it in OPT 4.
Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?
Not sure! I read somewhere that when Beo4 is in permanent LINK mode, you have to then press LINK to send a ‘normal’ command. I will test this now …
And I agree that L.OPT 6 should be the setting for a BL3500 in a system with a normal audiomaster. (I think OPTs 1 and 2 only referred to the older LCS9000).
I have only ever heard of a 1611 ‘audiomaster’ aux input being activated by a VIDEO source selection – any of which should work.
With regard to the pressing of AV. I used this button when I had a mixture of (connected) video and audio sources in the same room, each with their own speakers. I could press AV TV to hear the TV though my BC9500, or press AV RADIO to hear the RADIO through my TV. So in effect you are having to press AV TV to hear your ‘video source’ through your ‘audio’ system.
I think that with a normal audiomaster (with connected videomaster), connected by ML to a link room BL3500 would not require you to press AV (even to hear a video source) – it’s a funny requirement of the 1611 workaround.
It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.
Sorry for confusion. I was wondering whether you could first set the BL3500 to L.OPT 4. In that configuration commands have to be proceeded by LINK. My thought was that this could potentially avoid the need for the pressing of AV. Worth a try.
Of course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.
Congratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!
The 3500 works the same way in option 5 or 6.
Have you tried L.OPT 4 and then set your Beo4 as a LINK only remote, so you don’t have to select LINK each time?
EDIT: Also have you tired L.OPT 1 and/or L.OPT 2? In some of the older MCL kit you had to set L.OPT 1 or 2 as well as L.OPT 5 or 6 to make it work correctly.
This is basically a copy of a posting I also placed in General Discussion but that was before I knew this sub forum existed. So my apology but hope you will read it anyway.
I have deleted the other one, otherwise I think many people will see both from the Forum Home page. Hopefully someone will be able to assist.
(And welcome to the Forum!)
You could also look for a replacement ISDN – they are quite cheap now that support is dropping in many countries. Alternatively could you swap for a PSTN and still connect to your current router?
What country are you in?
EDIT: I meant to add that I would still persevere with the current equipment. As Keith pointed out, lack of connection and the pin request can be related to the Base thinking that too many handsets are connected. However, if the base was indeed reset then this problem would have cleared. I have found that brand new batteries can resolve Beocom 6000 problems, and you need to wait for a while (for them to charge) after pressing that key sequence.
Have you tried removing/replacing/charging the batteries in the handsets? If fitting a brand new battery you should press 9 # 9 # 9 * 6 5 5 OK in order to let the phone know it is charging a new battery.
Can I also check how you are trying to connect? I haven’t used my ISDN for a while, but I think that it is only ‘open for registration’ for a minute or so after connecting the power. (This is unlike the PSTN bases which have a physical button to press to open registration)
EDIT: I checked the manual – there is also a light on the rear of the ISDN that flashes whilst open for registration – is this happening?
A further thought that might enable you to test the handsets: If your internet modem/router has built in DECT (many do), then you may be able to connect your Beocom 6000s straight to it cordlessly without using the B&O ISDN base. I have used Beocom 6000s like this in the past (with a German router) – there will be reduced functionality but calls in/out should work fine. At least this would check that the handsets work.
I think that’s a misprint – mine are SW1.3 and have worked in that arrangement.
And I would assume that this is the latest version being sold: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69110-parts-for-bo/4072-firmware-beolink-converter-16111612/
And this thread: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/42843/311271.aspx#311271
There’s some confusing information above that may not be helpful to the OP!
It would be useful to know exactly what speakers are to be connected to the BM4500’s speaker 1 sockets.
If they are straightforward Passive speakers (Beovox or Redlines) then a 2-pin din connection will be fine.
If the speakers have their own displays (eg Penta 1) then 4 pin speakerlink connection is required. The extra 2-pins carry display data and display chassis to the speaker’s display (which shows volume and source at the speaker, I think).
The reference to ‘MCL’ above is only applicable to the BM4500 Speaker 2 sockets (which are 3-pin, not 4-pin).
If they are newer Active Beolab speakers, then powerlink cables will be required, and should be connected to the BM4500’s Powerlink sockets.
EDIT: This may help: https://www.beoworld.co.uk/beotech/mclconn1.htm
The Mk1 phones did have a problem with the RF chip that stopped them connecting, but given that at least one of your phones was working recently let’s hope that you can re-connect.
Have you tired resetting the handset as well using the (dot) 7 000 9 sequence?
Also recycle the power on the base unit – leave it off for 30 mins (or even overnight) before trying to reconnect. Connection can be temperamental but others have had success by leaving it all powered down for a while, including the phone handsets themselves.
Make sure that the phones are fully charged when you try to reconnect also.
EDIT: This thread is a good example of perseverance reaping results: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beocom-6000-mk1-base-pin-code/
Anywhere that list is documented?
I don’t think so. As far as I am aware you download a PUC table as part of the configuration process for new sources, so you may have to have a dummy run of going through the source configuration process to see what is available.
Does the PUC do anything but allow IR control from the B&O One remote?
No, but in my experience with earlier TVs/PUCs some set-top-boxes or DVD players allow a more user friendly control experience than others. It’s definitely worth asking other Forum members if they can recommend a particular DVD/BR player that they also control using BV11 and Beoremote One.
Time for a new DVD player it seems!
Maybe find one that already has a PUC code in the list! I am sure others will make recommendations. I am still using DVD1, although on the rare occasion that I get a new disc I often just rip it to my NAS and play using Apple TV.
