Guy
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
-
HI and welcome to Beoworld! Great system you have there, despite the little problems.
Can I ask if the connection between the BM7000 and BL Converter 1611 is just an Audio Aux Link (7-pin DIN) cable, or have you also connected a Powerlink between the two. If the Powerlink is also connected, have you tried disconnecting it and see how the system behaves then?
Are the TV and BS7000 in the same room, and if so have you considered connecting the Pentas to the TV to see how it behaves then?
A further thought: In the main room is the ML cable connected directly to the BS9000?
(I only ask this because you have a Passive in the Main Room, but I assume that this is just acting as an amplifier and should only be connected to the BS9000 by a Powerlink cable)
Maybe try checking the ML connections:
- Power down the complete system (unplug from mains, including main room BS9000 and Passive).
- Unplug all the ML connections.
- Make sure all the ML plugs are clean and undamaged and that there is no dust or fluff inside the sockets.
- Reconnect the ML cables
- Power the system up again.
- Re-do the option settings (put the main room in A.OPT 1, and each link room in L.OPT 6). If you need instructions for this, let me know.
Then try control again.
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Have you tried swapping the IR sensors between the two passives, to see if the fault follows?
I would suspect cabling of one of the IR eye’s to be either incorrect or disconnected, either inside the sensor itself, or inside the DIN connector.
Strange – I would expect it to behave as Carolpa describes above.
A longshot, but is there a chance that the BS9000 could have been put in A.OPT 5 or 6 which may stop it working correctly as an ML audiomaster?
Try using the Beo4 to put the BS9000 in A.OPT 1. As before, with the system in stand-by, press the POWER button and LIST together. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show A.OPT. Then press 1.
Then try Carolpa’s workaround again.
With the PSU connected to my Type 2032:
Input leg of IC21 is reading 20.4V
I get the correct 12V and 5V readings at IC21 and IC20 outputs respectively.
Maybe carefully increase your supply voltage?
The one that I used as a stand-alone was also Type 2020 – you can see the TV co-ax socket in my first photo.
I suppose that the 2020 is older therefore has more chance of a fault. Perhaps someone has connected an incorrect PSU in the past, or reversed the polarity and damaged IC20 (or one of the many extra components in the earlier model).
I just checked my PSU with no load and it measured 23V.
Not sure if this helps – I think this is quite a late model without the passive speaker or RF connections. The label says Type 2032.
Here you go: (I am getting better at finding things!)
Have you checked the connection/wiring of the IR eye? I think that is one of the ‘users’ of the 5.5V supply, hence could be shorting it out if wired incorrectly?
Look here under ‘Features’ ‘Emergency Operation’
Am I right in assuming that the MCL2 AV will start up and work stand alone without connection to a MCL master?
Yes – I used to use one like that as a stand alone amp for my PC. It even gave two-way IR in stand-alone mode!
Are you using the offical Power Supply, or the supply feed from an MCL2P? Mine worked with both.
EDIT: I know you’d like to see my neat cabling …. ?
Although I am not sure that it was fitted with the same amplifier, I used 4 ohm Grundig Audiorama 8000s with my Beocenter 9500 extensively, with no problems. Although someone may be along to give a technical recommendation, I would simply keep volume levels low when initially testing.
I vaguely recall that pressing the power button slightly causes the TV to turn on. This is some sort of emergency mode in case you have lost the remote. A further slight press gets it to start searching for channels.
You could also try applying 5v to SCART pin 8 – this may turn on the SCART input.
I can’t tell from the service manual if the RIAA in the BM6500 is a separate board that can be be removed, as it is only shown as part of a diagram where it is surrounded by dashes and market RIAA amplifier acesory, and the text about cutting pin 7 when RIAA is mounted.
It is a separate board that sticks up vertical from the main board just behind the input sockets. There are pictures of an RIAA board attached to the first couple of posts here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.co.uk/forums/p/7576/67094.aspx#67094
EDIT: I only remember because it was discussed in this thread: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/difference-between-source-sugnals/page/2/
The service manual has a couple of paragraphs about precautions to take when changing the microprocessor and/or EEPROM modules (eg waiting 20-30 secs after connecting to mains before operating etc). Did you observe all the guidance?
I think that the US tuner version adds AM frequencies if that’s any use to you!
I’m unfamiliar with the names of the parts but I believe PCB 5 is the one after the transformer that sits under the door motor, correct?
Yes – to the left of the CD and at the back of the unit.
And 10 Mains seems to be the one where the power cable is plugged into and then has a wire that runs into the transformer, correct?
Yes to this too.
So if both those are the European versions then yes you can just change the transformer wiring.
Which version of the tuner board is fitted? – there are differences between US and European version here also. (Not related to voltage supply, but may affect functionality)
Further to the above, Module 10 (Mains) has an additional transformer that is wired differently according to the supply voltage, so you need to make sure this matches your mains supply.
Yes – the service manual shows three different wiring schemes for the same transformer: 120v, 230v and 240v.
The fuses listed are actually on PCB 5, so if you haven’t replaced that with the USA one you will be fine.
(Sorry for the edits – hope I haven’t confused you!)
