[filip_kbh]

Look at the muting relay. It may have corroded.

[filip_kbh]

yes. I have an RDS BL7000. Worked before the recap of the BM.

[filip_kbh]

Also no readout of RDS. Guess I will have to seek professional help.

[filip_kbh]

Well, that was an easy fix. A wire had broken off. After soldering it on, I also soldered one pin on the big chip on the panel as it looked slightly suspicious, and now 2-way IR is back. It now reports the radio channel. Yay! Still no read out of Volume, and it seems like the range is limited.

[filip_kbh]

I’m getting a little bit frustrated. 1-way function was working. I decided I wanted to play a new record that I bought today, so I assembled the Beomaster. Now, IR does not work at all. And I didn’t touch anything. Must be a connection, I guess.

[filip_kbh]

Regarding TR10:

Base to Collector: 0.570 V 3.3 M Ohm

Base to Emitter: 0.273 V 333 Ohm

The diodes have been tested and they check out fine. I have inspected the board and there are no cracks as far as I can see.

[filip_kbh]

Hm. I have about 28V on the diodes

[filip_kbh]

Hmm – I have a hard time trusting my ESR metre. On the front panel board, I get open line readings on these:

C3, C5, C7, C8, C9, C11, C12, C16, C18, C23, C24

However, testing with the multimeter, only these ceramics give me no reading/reaction:

C5, C11, C23, C24. Still it’s a lot of ceramics …

Putting power on the board, only C5 is suspicious with a voltage across it of 0.142 V DC

[filip_kbh]

Thanks 🙂

[filip_kbh]

I have a Beolink 7000 and Beolink 5000. Both of them worked before I recapped the Beomaster. Highly unlikely that both of them would fail at the same time – especially since I repaired their 2-way communication module 1-2 years ago.

[filip_kbh]

I replaced the 3V battery – didn’t actually need to as it measured 3.1V after all these years still.

Yes, I checked the option.

The display is okay.

I replaced on the front panel these capacitors – they all had very high ESR measurements

C15 1uf/100V ESR 40.3 BAD
C19 2.2uf/63V ESR 14.2 BAD
C20 10uf/63V ESR 2.30 BAD

After this, I checked that the amp was working but I did not check 2-way communication.

I also replaced 2 capacitors on the CPU board – both of them gave no ESR whatsoever:

C1 100 uf/10V – measured capacitance 14.7 – way out of spec

C57 47uf/10V – measured capacitance 11.7 – way out of spec

So, I presume that I may have done something wrong with one of these capacitors – or they need to be a certain brand. The two from the CPU board were the blue Philips type as well as two from the front panel.

 

 

[filip_kbh]

Hey – I also show as Bronze member but am in reality Gold member. I am sure the programming will work out at some point.

[filip_kbh]

Set the Beomaster to Option 1. On your Beo4, press Standby button (the red dot) and List at the same time. Your Beomaster will turn off, and the Beo4 will show Option. Press 1 and Store or Go (I don’t remember).

[filip_kbh]

Oh crap – I don’t want to spend that much time on it since I rarely record anything on tape. Thank you for the answer.

[filip_kbh]

Not sure what you mean by “drive pins” … a picture?

[filip_kbh]

3. Yep. Those red caps will need replacement.

The Idle current trim pots are marked 3R124 and 3R224 on the board. Replace them with trimmers of similar ohms value. Read in the service manual how to adjust the required 10mV. You can download the service manual if you are a gold member (and at the same time help keep this site up and alive)

[filip_kbh]

1. Do you know anything about electronics? Otherwise, it is probably best to leave it to somebody professional who can fix it for you before you make matters worse.
2. If the Beocenter shuts off after a few seconds, it is usually a sign that somehing is pretty wrong, and it shuts down to protect itself. This can be because of many things but one of the main suspects in this particular stereo would be the idle current trimmers corroding. When that happens the idle current becomes too high. These two trimmers should be replaced, and the idle current adjusted afterwards.
3. Have you done a visual inspection of suspect components? The reason that I ask, is that a few of the red Roederstein capacitors look very suspicious to me – they look fried. At this point in time, it is fair to say that all electrolytic capacitors in the Beocenter should probably be replaced.
4. If you have not discarded the original relay, I suggest that you clean it with very fine (wet) sandpaper where the metal parts meet each other. It’s an easy fix, and your relay will become as new.

 

.

 

[filip_kbh]

Strange – it seems that the problem fixed itself. Now it works every time.

[filip_kbh]

I also finally got around to adjust the no load current to the specified 11 mV. The trimmers were quite dirty it seemed so I gave them a big splash of contact cleaner, waited some minutes, and then it was possible to adjust the no load current without it jumping like crazy.

However, after I put everything together, I have a rather irritating and interesting problem: After some time, the two buttons on the front panel do not work which means that I cannot turn the BM7000 on with the left button. If I then turn it on with a remote control and turn it off again, the left button will work for some time, after which it gets unresponsive again. Any ideas why?

[filip_kbh]

I think it sounds more like a dirty lens. I do not know the Beocenter 9000 but if it contains a CDM 12.4 mechanism, I linked to a video on how to clean the lens from the underside, including the mirror in the thread called How To Fix The Laser In Beosound 9000.

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