[ebnrob]

Humax are selling Freeview HD (DVB-T2) boxes in the UK. I don’t know if they still use InfraRed for remote control though – if so, it might still work with the PUC IR blaster you can plug into the back of the BV7.

[ebnrob]

Mjoelnir wrote:

Yet another ugly plastic box and another power cable? That’s not really B&O like. Why did B&O actually never upgrade the Beolab 18 to WLAN in its 10 year life span? That would have been the obvious thing to do.

I prefer speakers as speakers. Connected tech and services become obsolete or are discontinued very quickly. The powerlink input allows one to upgrade the streaming box and keep the same speakers.

[ebnrob]

Mjoelnir wrote:

In the press pictures, the Beoconnect Core is always displayed together with a pair Beolab 18s and a Beogram turntable of the 4000 series. Beolab 18s without cables, that is… These are exactly the products I have, and as I would like to have the Beolab 18s work wirelessly, I was very excited about the news of the Beoconnect Core. Even though I bought everything less than a month ago, I was willing to replace my Core by a new one. Now I read that this is actually a hoax, and my wireless Beolab 18s will always be bound to cables? Not cool.

You could buy a Beolab Transmitter 1 to make your connection from the core wireless to the beolab 18s. They are relatively inexpensive on eBay.

[ebnrob]

Severed_hand_of_skywalker wrote:

I think the reason it doesn’t have WISA is that you need to keep the WiFi and WISA antennas pretty far apart and since this thing is made out of aluminum other than the top (glass?) there is no space for both transmitters.

Almando did it in a bigger plastic box (looks like the essence case):
https://www.av-connection.com/?PGr=17263

This Almando box, with the addition of Mozart, is what the new core with hdmi input should have been.

[ebnrob]

Sandyb wrote:

The BCC product sheet says “limited control for 3rd party TVs” with BR1. No separate / specific mention of LG.

Must just be HDMI CEC control then.

[ebnrob]

Features that I think are missing from this new core:

Separate optical and analogue-in connectors.

Buttons on the device for play/pause, Next/Prev & Join

WISA transmitter

IR input

An option to have a core with built-in amp would be good – like the Wiim Amp. I have a core feeding an old beolink passive amp via powelink, so such a device could replace both.

Personally I don’t see the value of the HDMI input without an integrated surround decoder & multiple powerlink outs for channel assignment.

 

[ebnrob]

I’m wondering if the mozart platform can now “borrow” sources from other devices, like the previous ASL platform can? I use this to access my turntable (connected to a BS core) and BS9000 cd player (NL/ML converter) from other rooms without having to Join. Last time I checked it couldn’t.

[ebnrob]

I also only have Line In as an available source on my ASE speakers after this update on my iPhone. B&O support seem unaware of the issue, suggesting deleting the app, and re-installing it! The new app clearly hasn’t been tested on ASE devices. There is also no TV remote for my Beovision 11.

 

[ebnrob]

Thanks @Stan.

@Hiort – As you didn’t complete the Google Setup, were you able to set the Wifi settings in the B&O config without Google? And are you able to perform Bluetooth pairing in the B&O app/ config webpage like other speakers?

I also wonder whether the four beoremote one preset buttons are married up to the ones on the top of the speaker, when a remote is paired, or whether they can function separately.

Many thanks. Rob.

[ebnrob]

Thank you all for the replies. That’s disappointing the buttons can’t be assigned to activate local sources.

@Hiort – what does the centre button do now you’ve disabled Google? Play/Pause?

Rob.

[ebnrob]

I’m also waiting patiently for this issue of the secondary linked products not being accessible in the local list menu to be fixed. It affects all of my ASE products on the new firmware with b&o Radio.

[ebnrob]

matador wrote:

Hi enrob, It was there a spamGPT answer that point to a faulty ribbon cable and warning you to be careful when opening the device to check this part. I mention this because this is not totally dumb. Nevertheless I believe those answer are as useful as a picture of the Pope in white puffy jacket running away from the police. You’ve already explore the old forums so you may already know most of what wiz know on this common issue, most digitizers ends up developing a touch fault. Sometimes its the ribbon cable but sometimes it’s not. Think someone explored another track on this but I dont remember he found a solution. Good luck.

Thanks Matador.

Mr ChatGPT makes a good point. Since posting this though I bought a “New, old stock” replacement beo6 screen that came with a new ribbon cable attached to the screen, only to find after fitting it that this one also had a fault where the very top right didn’t register touches meaning the top page right arrow couldn’t be pressed! Such a shame as it made the beo6 look new again. The seller kindly gave me a full refund for the inconvenience. In both cases I believe it to be the digitizer at fault. So I am on the lookout for a low cost donor beo6 on ebay…

[ebnrob]

What’s the link?

[ebnrob]

Have you tried power cycling it?

[ebnrob]

I’ve also had this same issue for many months, so thanks for posting this. I’ll update the app and will see if it works now for me too.

[ebnrob]

Madskp wrote:

Guy wrote:

Following with interest still! It’s a shame that Timer selection didn’t make any difference as there was a glimmer of hope there!

Yes I was just beginning to see something that might be what we were looking for in the first place. I thin I will try to test with the 1611 and the Powerlink connector on that again in combination with the timer thing the newt time I have time to do a test

That’s a shame the timer didn’t work. The Almando Masterplay is connected via masterlink though, could this Reddit chap be putting the voltage onto the masterlink pins rather than the DIN? Rob.

[ebnrob]

Go to General Preference>User and groups and select your main account. Then in the “opening” tab add iTunes. (Names may differ a little sine I use a French OS but you should find your way.

Thank you for this tip! Ive now got it opening itunes and mounting the NAS music folder share too at startup 🙂

I’m now thinking I could create an os/x virtual machine in virtualbox on my windows server for running this which would save on running costs.

 

[ebnrob]

matador wrote:

ebnrob wrote:

The Mac is running Itunes 10.6 with BM-Link […]. I also installed the itunes remote app on my iphone 13 and that worked too for controlling iTunes! I was not expecting that.

Thats interesting because last time I tried, home sharing support was not supported anymore in Snow Leopard for security reasons. That was then the missing experiment in may research on BL3500, Mac-mini and iTunes integration. So could you please elaborate on your setup, settings and software version. Side note: funny how people dig out more and more old hardware to play with it !

Hi Matador,

Mac mini is a 2.4Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB

The O/S is v 10.6.8

ITunes is v 10.6.3

BMLink v 1.50.3

PC2 firmware v1.31

I wasn’t able to sign in to Apple when enabling home share and had to cancel that. However in getting that far must have enabled something as I was then able to see the mac mini in the iphone remote app and selecting it then asked for a pairing code. Itunes on the mac then showed my iphone in the left folder structure, I clicked it and it showed me the code to enter. This then completed the pairing.

Ive set the mac to auto-login at boot, just need to figure out a way to load itunes at login next.

Annoyingly though the mac is forgetting the time after being powered off, so I get a warning popup while booting in saying the time is before 2008 and will cause errors. Once it’s connected to the network it then gets the time from the net. There must be a battery inside thats dead.

[ebnrob]

Interesting thread!

I have my BL3500 connected to a 1611 converter running as the audio master together with a BLGW. I made a din to RJ45 cable to connect the 1611 to a Core and wrote a couple of macros for the BLGW to turn the BL3500 on and set to N.MUSIC when the core starts playing and switch it off after 30 seconds of no playback. Volume’s set to start at 60 on the 3500 and I use an essence wheel paired to the core for control + the B&O app. It all works really well, however it would be good if I could take the BLGW out of the equation and have the 3500 trigger on/off by itself. I did consider the Almando masterplay box but the cost was too much… 300 EUR vs. £30 for the 1611!

The Almando requires the 3500 timer function to be On all the time for the 3500 to trigger on.. I wonder if this is just a voltage signal down the masterlink cable ?

[ebnrob]

Does the beosound 3000 support A.Option 6 (Audio slave)? If not then this could be the cause of the system becoming unresponsive from having two audio masters on the ML side.

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