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The lamp sits inside the black plastic housing at the backside of the frontpanel.
Interrupters block the light from the lamp to the LDRs when buttons are pressed, and the screws are for adjusting (ref. service manual).
New lamp here.Martin
Capacitor C2 on module 53.
Martin
Replace 53C2 (47uF).
Martin
The connection is named C32, which means that it can be found on diagram C with number 32.
On diagram C, it is named F32 because the connection goes to diagram F.
Nothing strange about this.In other words TR17, C12 and F2. Check for cracked solder joints.
Martin
I would not enjoy being interviewed as such, but I don’t mind showing a few of the more exotic products, I have come across, if it could be of interest.
Beomaster 2100 (prototype)
Beocord 1900 black edition (as found, before I carefully cleaned it up).
Presumably an attempt at a matching cassettedeck for Beomaster 2200 and Beocenter 3300.Beomaster 2400 first edition (with different symbols). I have the matching remote control too.
Record player G46SR
Martin
Yes, that’s what I did and found this:
https://www.facebook.com/soundsheavenlycables/photos/pcb.5676106309106059/5676099505773406
What is the (presumably) S-model near the camera, with the Master 38RG, Master 39S and JET 512RG in that order behind it?
Martin
I am not sure exactly what the point was when I started collecting at the age of nine or ten, but it certainly wasn’t in order to brag or show off.
And it still isn’t.
I remember sitting with the catalogues, helplessly in love with each and every product, unable to decide which one(s) I’d like to have the most, if I should ever get a chance to own one.
And then it took off.I’ve been collecting for my own pleasure. I would love to have all my items up and running, ready to look at, dust off and use, but I simply don’t have room for it, and it wouldn’t be a museum or somewhere I would drag my family and friends around anyways.
At home I only have my Beomaster 8000 which is in daily use. I have nothing on “display” and no “conversation pieces”.
The last two decades I have slowly but certainly been parting with things. Started with larger products, TVs,
large speakers, 40s, 50s and 60s radiograms, moving to doubles and/of more commonly seen products etc.
These days I am only adding items I never saw or owned before, exotic and strange products.
Documenting everything as I go has become an important point for me, and I should’ve done that from the very beginning.Martin
The Hyperbo is a replica. As is the one in the Struer museum.
Don’t get me wrong, – it’s a very nice piece indeed, but it’s not a genuine B&O product.
The one from Kims collection, that B&O apparently bought, I believe, has a Superbo chassis. Presumably because spare Hyperbo chassis’ are nowhere to be found.The Mini 43 is the Export version, meant for the swedish market.
Quite interesting.One I cannot readily identify is the (presumably) S-model near the camera in the photo with the Master 38RG, Master 39S and JET 512RG in that order behind it.
And its record player could be a non-B&O. The tonearm could look a bit like a PE.
Which model is this?Martin
Steve, I cannot ask people to do this. It can be a sensitive matter and some people
would not like to publicise anything.
If they read this they can make the decision whether to share details or not themselves,
but unfortunately, I’m under the impression that many of them are no longer active on Beoworld – and some never were.
But I can tell you that my own collection has been trimmed down considerably over
the last ten to fifteen years or so, so at present it is down to apprx three and a half thousand products, including prototypes, pre-production products and territory specific products.
My collection was never in the puclic view.
Actually most of it has been packed down and put in storage a pair of decades ago so not even really visible to myself.
My focus was always on audio products.
I have no more TVs or phones as far as I remember.
I have owned a few hundred televisions, VCRs etc, but had to focus and part with something.
I have more than 50 different production versions of Beomaster 1000 (not counting different wood finishes), just to name one product.
And my collection is not the largest I know of.
By far.Martin
Do you know of any others bigger than this one? Kind regards, Steve.
Yes.
Martin
(Previously known as Dillen but apparently this was changed)When you press play, Beogram CD50 will:
Move tray in.
Check for presence of disc.
If disc is present, lift disc to engage with motor spindle hub.
Run trackingmotor to make the laser carriage reach the track 0 switch.
When track 0 switch is reached, start disc motor.
When disc motor is running, switch on laser and read TOC.
Etc…Your deck stops at moving the carriage.
It seems the carriage is all the way out – it should move all the way in. (CD’s play from inner tracks out).You tell that you have taken it all apart and put back togehter. Are you sure you got the tracking motor polarity right?
Martin
(For reasons unknown to me no longer Dillen)The resistor in question is in series with the motor and is there to allow the safety circuit to monitor the motor current.
A too high current will cause a high voltage drop across the resistor (that’s ohms law), again causing the
monitoring transistor to issue a signal to the tape controller to stop the drive (in some Beocords/Beocenters take it into standby).
The resistor will also double as a safety fuse in severe cases, so DON’T fit a higher wattage resistor unless you want a house fire!The resistor is not the problem – it merely indicates a problem.
Check the motor in the tape drive – seized?
Check the reel tables – seized?
And if the drive is the one-belt type, check the small idlerr at the extreme corner of the drive – seized?
Take apart, clean and relubricate accordingly.
Finally, check the power supply voltages – is the motor running at all?The resistor is not marked as a safety component in all manuals, but it really should be.
Fit a good fusible (or at least flameproof) type of resistor.Martin
(Apparently there is no longer a member called Dillen).Hi Beoworlders, Please come and join me for a VERY special video premiere – a private guided tour of the World’s largest B&O collection of 1,000 items dating back to 1925! The video goes live at 12pm (UK) or 1pm (EU) on Friday – see you there!
Kind regards, Steve.
It’s a very impressive collection indeed – no doubt about that – and it does show some interesting specialties and rarities.
The collector(s) themselves may feel that it’s the best or finest collection in the world, and others may agree as this would be a decision to be made by the individual viewer.
I would tend to agree myself.
However, calling it the largest collection in the world would be factually wrong.
It’s far from being the largest collection in the world. And not the largest in Denmark either.
Keep in mind, that not all collectors like to show off their collection.
Based solely on collectors I am aware of and collections I personally know of and/or have seen, I would say its perhaps in the top ten in Denmark and top twenty internationally.Impressive and interesting nonetheless, and the guys behind it are great.
Martin
(For reasons unknown to me apparently no longer Dillen).Following B&Os system BC are Beocords.
BCT are Beocenters.Martin
(For reasons unknown to me apparently no longer Dillen).Transport screws fully losened?
Martin
There is no switch involved. The direction and action is controlled by two pins, 21 and 22 on IC8 that provide a differential voltage to dual op-amp IC9. I do not have access to the service manual that may explain how end of travel is sensed.
It’s not.
The motor runs for a preset time.Martin
The reed elements closest to the end of the board are indeed mute switches, and they
are known to fail. I have replaced many.
Cut them at the bend, pull them out, insert new and solder to the stubs of the old.Martin
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