Dillen
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Can you tell if the disc is scraping on the alu tray?
I have noticed, in some decks, a little more height is needed for the suspension rubbers in order for the disc to fully clear the tray.
If so, you can fit a thin washer (0,5mm or so) under the rubber parts, between the
rubber parts and the drive base chassis to lift the (rubbers and) drive slightly with respect to the alu tray.
This will also solve the noise issue, if it’s the clamp scraping on its metal bracket as it will also be lifted by this.New suspension parts, that I am currently working on, will be corrected for this.
Martin
Does the lower display get any power?
If it gets power, does it get any data?Martin
It’s all down to alignments and which tape types the deck has been calibrated for.
Tapes of different brand or types can be very different indeed.A couple of hours work, usually, and some instrumentation etc. is needed, but it is
possible to calibrate the Beocord to whatever tape you prefer to use.
(That’s what Beocord 9000 can do at a touch of a button, strictly speaking).Martin
Sorry to spoil the fun, but anti-static mats are absolutely NO-GO on any Beogram.
First; Due to the thickness of the mat, the needle tracking angle will be wrong.
Second; Because the presence of a record is often determined by either optical
sensors or weight, many Beogram models will think there is a record on the
platter – even if it’s merely the mat, and they will gladly try to play it…
A needle lowered onto a rotating felt mat… Ouch, – bye needle.Third; One is never needed, if the deck is in good working order.
You could run a grounding wire from a bolt of the main bearing (note its position or you
will have to realign the bearing) to somewhere on the main metal chassis.Martin
It’s difficult to find cable of the same type as the original.
So far I have managed with what I could find in the dungeons from scrapped units and leftovers collected over decades from closed repairshops, but perhaps Steve can give us an idea?The original black color seems to vary a little. If this is because of age and sunlight or because the original production spanned several paint batches I cannot say.
A not-to-reflective but not exactly flat silk black either, should be close.Martin
Nice job – but as I see it, there is no longer any shielding between the two signal leads.
There is quite an amount of amplification to whatever comes out of that cable, so even
the tiny amount of transfer caused by capacitive coupling between the two long parallel
leads close together could cause the channels to mix a little (loss of channel separation).
It’s marginal – that’s correct, but the old cable was in fact of better quality in this respect.The new cable would be better suited for balanced signals, really, – stage gear, microphones with long leads and the likes.
And you are absolutely right about the two grounds.
Martin
Failing switch.
Give it a shot of contact cleaner and work it a dozen times.Martin
Carefully remove the locking washer on the top of the spool. It has a slit so is usually not difficult to remove.
Then take off the spool – note the small anti-vibration insert. It’s a tiny round bronze plate, wedged up against the spindle – easily lost.
While in there, I suggest you clean the spindle and inside of the spool off old grease and add a small amount of fresh white lithium grease.Martin
Yes, the magnet has come lose.
You must take off the the reel table and glue the magnet back onto it.Martin
The reel tables carry the spindles with tridents that grips into the spools with the tape.
Martin
In order to check:
Bad tape.
Seized reel table. Take apart, clean and relubricate.
Problem with reel table brake.Martin
Bad muting relay?
Try speaker sockets 2. They bypass the relay. If sound is good there, replace the relay.Martin
That would see the tonearm move out of parallel with the other arm.
Martin
Unless a wire is shorting to something, which would be very obvious, it can almost only be a case of a bad stereo decoder IC.
Martin
Does the Signal meter deflect and/or the red tuning arrows flicker, as you travel the dial?
Martin
You don’t have to clean the platter now.
It’s just that, if the platter was cleaned at some point, its coating may have been damaged.
Many owners, – particularly of the type 59xx decks, wash their platters or use
solvent-based cleaning products to make the platter shiny.
It may look nice, but the coating has then been washed away and the platters static discharging properties will have been ruined.
This will cause problems with static electricity, that charges up on the record from airs friction. In severe cases you can see “lightning”-type sparks from the record to surrounding chassis metal in a dark room.
The platter should not be shiny. Cleaning should only be done with a soft clothMartin
