Die_Bogener
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The aluminum is eloxated. Very hard oxyd. Cannot be painted, no paint will stick on this oxyd. It will chip off easily…
You have to grind it, better is sandblasting with glas, not sand or steel.
As mentioned right before: you need a etch primer, then aluminum can be painted.
On the etch primer you can use almost every car paint… 2K.
All dead? No. Never. The power supply has absolute not enough power for this…
… and this area is always dark, quite normal.
Dead resistors look quite different. They are black and exploded… and not a bunch of them. Usually there is 1 (!!!) resistor working for a fuse.
Looks the same and working…
… or here: this one is very nice.
Acid foam on the ABL section. Really nice broken lines…
Check this board and the LED board for broken solder pins/pads. Especially the ground pins… and use a magnifying glass… BL8000 have lots of problems with broken pads. More or less ALL active loudspeaker have this problem. Sound is stress to solder pads, it’s mechanical stress and it is just a matter of time and played volume…
… and for the acid foam. Maybe broken lines in the preamp section…
When i remember right: there is a timer function in the drawer motor control.
It is started for around 2 seconds , in -and out, toggled.
It does not detect overload or a position. Just 2 seconds motor on…
I think: typical cap problem in the motor control…
Tantalum ist very expensive, big and very longliving… 🙂
Tantalum hates spikes, overload and mechanical shocks. But this is here not the problem. Much better than this smd elko crap…
the rubber is done because of mechanical tolerances. The screen rubber will also work, but not so long… silicon screen rubber oxidates faster, but will also work for this.
It is also something like a fuse. Inside the case is a carbon paint for capacitive action. You should check it for cuts and breaks. It can be repaired with silver for windshields.
Caps make shorts and this depends on the voltage and temperature…
You have heard about “selfhealing caps” with polystyrene caps? Some elko caps do the same … and trick you out. It will happen again.
There are 2 brown caps, the 220uf is prone to fail… yes, with shorts killing the resistor.
I have repaired dozens of them. It’s always the same. Caps defect.
Especially the SMD ones on the ir unit are the worst ever…
Check the capacity of them very, very exactly. There is a ” .. , ..”
I replaced them with X7R SMD caps … no electrolyth any more…
The motor is running as long as the source is tape … playing or stopped, the motor is running.
If source is different to tape, then the motor stops.
Contact… make photo !?!
Without load… yes.
It’s a 2-coil transformer, for around 2 x 20V 150mA .
Hmmm, the left one is ok.
The right one is somehow “blocked”, there is a hard stop in the membran. Maybe it was overload or somebody crashed into the loudspeaker.
Does it move by hand?
You start a Beogram to play without a record?
Nice, you will destroy the MMC if it continues.
That’s a safety feature.
A telephone can make this noise when it checks the net connections.
“Bsssss bada bada bada….”
Even a brandnew Overture will show this sound, it was never designed to withstand this emv noise.
Also a computer or router can cause these problem, also some bad LED lights from fareast…
Hmmm… my experience is complete different.
Offering new spare parts in Ebay is more or less a disaster. No interest at all. Now offered for 4 years.
Complete new VX loading gear inclusive cassette loading mechanism… 19,-€ to expensive. 1 sold after 18 month.
VX capstan motor, drive spare parts, new power supplies, revised boards, cabinetts, upgraded power supplies … nothing.
New Beocord motors 30€… nothing.
Stopped. Too expensive…
Instead: people buy a 80€ scrap Overture and want it repaired for even less. Go somewhere else…
But: if a B&O owner loves his equipment and brings it to my workshop in real life… no problem at all. Some of them are driving 600km for this repair and we became close friends for many years, it makes a lot of joy to meet again and to talk about B&O, playing music when the equipment and we were young. And to talk about the next old toy to buy and play with… 🙂
This is the upgrade board, what makes the difference from 5500 to 6500…
Then it is possible, to run 64K Eproms…
Beocord and Beogram do not need any modification, they already work 2-way… they are just telling the master title number or track.
The master can send these data to the MCP and show them. The BM5500 is just compatible with the MCP, not BL7000 or BL5000.
The BM5500 has just a 16K Eprom, the later BM6500/7000 a 64K Eprom. So they are not compatible without modification.
There is/was a BM5500 BL7000 64K file available for an upgrade if modified with a BM6500 cpu.
If you don’t need timer programing: the BL1000 is much better than the Beo4 for the BM5500, easier and faster.
