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- September 11, 2023 at 2:10 pm in reply to: Beosystem 2500: new door belts but still not completely closing, why? #23923
Epoxy will not work for long time.
Loctite 480 will do the job.
Caps? No. But it can be improved with better material.
Sound? Is the load on the MMC adjusted? There is a adjustable weight for the load…
September 9, 2023 at 12:52 pm in reply to: Beosystem 2500: new door belts but still not completely closing, why? #23854The hight of the glass door cannot be adjusted.
Either somebody glued it at the wrong position or the doors are out of spec… and i have never seen any door out of spec.
Every wrong polarized cap will make a short, even small ones.
… and if small enough: a very nice BANG!
The Blue Philips is something special. It is not a “Low ESR” type.
More or less the opposite… it is something like a “High ESR” type. Ideal for slow R-C Filter units and working pretty linear.
All CD units need a slow working filter for drive speed, rotation, focus and so on… to get all filters at the same time working in spec.
LOW ESR DOES NOT WORK. At least, not reliable…
September 4, 2023 at 8:50 am in reply to: Beolink 7000 with Beocenter 9500 – Operational Conflict #23615September 3, 2023 at 9:46 am in reply to: Beosystem 2500: what to replace rotted foam in the speakers with? #23590The BS2500 does not need the sticky black foam. It even sounds better without the foam… something more clear. The system even stays cooler, the ventilation is a little bit better.
You can remove it without replacement.
Hmmm, i have both drives. Or even 3 variations, the Beocord 5500 has another older type of drive.
BC6500 is the 2 motor drive, BC7000 just 1 motor.
I think, the 1 motor drive is a little bit faster switching from side to side… and less parts.
I do not hear a difference in sound quality, since the signal path is almost identical. It’s just the speed switching sides or rewinding to the next title.
But probably it is the availability of the drives. They are not from B&O itself… B&O had to buy them from a supplier.
September 2, 2023 at 1:15 pm in reply to: Beolab Penta: how do you get to the crossover PCBs? #23553Shipping? Yes, that is possible.
Heat? Yes, the glue is not very stable against heat and becomes soft/sticky around 60-70 degrees C. It is not epoxy, it is something like a hotmelt glue.
I think, heat and overload can do this.
Pulling boards? Yeaaah… sure.
But most: i think the Penta was dropped during transport or by running kids/dogs/cats. Most of them had massive damages on the top plate. So there was a very hard impact…
But it can be repaired, it just needs time.
Replacing the drive? Why?
Problems with the 2 motor drive?
Broken worm gear wheel?
September 1, 2023 at 9:26 am in reply to: Beolab Penta: how do you get to the crossover PCBs? #23537September 1, 2023 at 9:18 am in reply to: Beolab Penta: how do you get to the crossover PCBs? #23536Hmmm, yes. It is better to find someone, since it is not so easy to open the system. The BC9500 has a lot of bolts and parts…
You have a voltmeter?
Check the output with no signal with and without connected speakers. AC and DC voltages… left and right… muted and nonmuted…
Tell us the reading.
The MCL2P expects a Mute and a POWER ON signal.
The standard Powerlink will only have the Mute signal.
If you connect the cable Mute with the MCL2P Mute and Power On, it will switch on and play.
The only thing is: when it switches on or off, then there can be a nasty noise during power up or down. Can be… sometimes not.
And Mute is a little bit slow…
The MCL2P is a Link system.
It needs a MUTE AND A “POWER ON” SIGNAL. That are 2 different signals, not only one.
IT will not play on a quite normal cable…
A Beolink converter is always running and has NO POWER ON !
You can build an adapter giving the MCL2P the necessary signal.
C876 lost some acid, the typical dead 220uF C878 and C879 are still alive… you are lucky. This board is a 1% survivor.
Uuuups, that is the tape speed control itself… tachometer control?
I had this on several VX, but it was gone with a 100% recap… i dont know which cap is responsible for this… but probably you have not done all of them…
Hmmm, is there a difference between old records and new records?
Old= dump, odd, dull, no treble…
New= crisp and clear? But little bit jumpy?
Then it is adjustment of the sound head and/or Tape guide.
But: turned once on the screws it will never be the same…
Have you good old records of the original machine?
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