[chilibt]

Hi

Attached is the before and after pictures of the recap. The symptoms before the recap remained after the recap: the first CD played, then it never did again.

The fact the first CD played tells me the recap is probably ok.

One item not replaced is the dipped cap that the Beoparts instructions mentioned to replace if it was electrolytic (which it was not). Since the circuit seems sensitive to the 33uf cap I thought it was best to leave the one cap above untouched. It is board #35012 so the kit fits. It is CDM-2/29.

For the question: “Does the moving to the far upper happens every time the CD stops? ”

two answers:

1. yesterday No, only on about every 4th or more time. I try playing 3 times you see no movement beyond the CD, then on the 4th it moves to the end quickly. then I try 3 more times and the 4th time the carriage moved as the video showed.
2. today: I just tried 10-12 times, only the disk spins the carriage does not move.

[chilibt]

The first 2 videos were compressed and may not be viewable so here is the uncompressed version where the laser hits the end. This is maybe 1 of 8 times.

 

Another 1 in 8 times it goes half the distance and just shows outside of the CD edge. The rest, 3 of 4 times, it does not show outside the disk area.

[chilibt]

here is another video of just the lens

[chilibt]

Hi, I carried out further diagnosis before I do any electrical adjustments (i have seen some warnings on other posts and am cautious).

When selecting CD, 3 out of 4 times the disc spins then shuts down. 1 in 4 times the laser unit moves rapidly to the end (sometimes hitting it) then the unit shuts down. Some times it will not reach the very end. attached videos.

[chilibt]

Thank-you for all the help!!! It was an installation of 100 and 100k trimmers that caused both problems, the LED for the FM strength AND the no load current setting issue.

I did verify the correct trimmers were installed on the amp board TWICE, but the R234 was hidden behind another large green component c201, I could make out the first 3 letters but not the 4th when I initially checked, and I moved on.

Once you asked more questions about the recap work, I looked again and finally saw the k in 100k, which was wrong for R234. It was to be 100 . The 100k should have been on the LED feed on board 6, which was my other problem. Once swapped everything worked perfectly!

Thanks for all the help, your questions lead me to recheck a third time!

Best regards

Chilibt

 

[chilibt]

I think I found the problem… standby.

[chilibt]

the back

[chilibt]

Hi, Yes the amp was in operation prior to the recap.

I did no adjustments until after the recap so the perhaps the problem may have existed prior to the recap, or it is after, I am unsure. But it was in use.

Now when I am adjusting the trimmers it shuts the unit down but works when the trim is left out of spec.

I am Attaching the pictures

[chilibt]

Any thoughts on what next to look at for this problem?

[chilibt]

Thank you for the advice.

The cap did come off with careful prying using my fingernails, one nail on both sides. Some twisting and tilting got it off with a bit of force. It was cleaned and reassembled. The cap clicked back on the grove in the shaft firmly making is a solid seat. It is definitely a critical tiny piece not to be lost.

The result was a reel that spins like a top for several turns after a quick flick with my fingers.

The other reel was done also.

It is apparent the reels do not disassemble beyond what was done.

thanks again!

Terry

[chilibt]

last one

[chilibt]

It looks like the Tr 201-205 read ok unless I am not reading the tester properly (attached Photos)

[chilibt]

I understand, my thoughts exactly.

As there is a part number for each side, and a separate for the tip so they must come off? Perhaps removal destroys the old tip and once on, the new tip cannot be easily removed?

Do you know if a safe solvent may be used prior to new oil? if so what type?

Also there is a felt pad inside, does it have a “oil free” status? If so this gets more complex.

[chilibt]

Hi, thanks for the questions. No matter how I try, I always leave out something important.

yes the brake pad was set inside, and the stiffness in the Black plastic reel was not discovered until removed as in the photo. It should rotate easily on the metal shaft, but this is much harder to rotate in comparison with the 8000 unit I used as a comparison. It was so stiff that is became obvious a drive belt and/or tyre(tire) would not be able to move it without slipping. I am thinking a lubricant needs to be cleaned off and reapplied.

It looks like the top cap slides off. I tried with my fingernail and it did not move with moderate force (which caused me to stop trying until getting more info).

I am a bit apprehensive to disassemble plastic parts that are friction fit without some guidance so it does not break.

 

[chilibt]

Thanks for the tips,

I checked voltages and so far could not see any differences from left and right channel: r116/216 -47.6 TR102/202 collector +47.2 D107/207 +28V TR111/211 e -47v

As for voltages at speaker output it starts at 1.5 mV when adjusting the R234 it stays that way until the relay trips , when adjusting R210 there is no effect (change in mV) to any R210 adjust

So It looks like i need to pull and check TR201 to 205, do i have that correct?

 

 

 

[chilibt]

a new item, No load current issues:

I thought I would carry out the no load current adjustment.

The unit is operating for a few days in radio and tape after full recap. This morning I start:

Right channel done, set to 22mv as per manual,

Left channel was at 2.5 mv. when turning the VR 9R234 to bring it to 22 mv, the unit went to standby. If I set it above the 2.5 it will shift the unit into standby (short duration of a “buzz” then click of the relay). I tried turning it when in standby and then turning it on, it lasts 1 second on …then back to standby. If I set it at the bottom (2.5 mv) it stays on and appears to work normally. What would shift this unit to standby when adjusting the no load from 2.5 mv up?

[chilibt]

Thanks Glitch! my thoughts were the same about traces, except the intermittent display threw me off. I started to think a cap or TR was changing in temperature causing the problem, with the displays then they may affect the keyboard. I never thought so many traces could have been cut with one microscopic scratch.

The tuner issues you describe will mean a visit to a shop with the correct equipment. Luckily that can wait as the frequencies listened to in my area are not affected and comparing my other non B&O receiver tuner to this one seems like the sound is ok as well.

I am in the process of continuity tests and solder joints/shorts, so far nothing suspicious found.

Interesting recent issue:

I was putting things back together and lost one of the repaired traces power to the keyboard, Affecting P1, Vol 40 and Standby buttons. all else was OK.

I removed the shield on the inside and looked at all the possible solder connections , and tested it again and it was ok. Put it back together and it happened again.

On the 3rd try I finally discovered that the shield of board 2 there is a metal tab which is on the bottom (a wire guide perhaps). it was making contact with the board in the last 1mm near the bottom. This rubbed the varnish off the bottom trace, exposing a tiny sliver of copper and grounded the trace to the shield. One easy bend of the tab and the problem was gone. Whew. (photo)

Lesson learned was to check for any contact of metal to the PCB’s even if it looks intentional.

 

[chilibt]

The arrow in the photo was where 11 traces were cut, the white wires are my jumpers.

[chilibt]

Thanks for the great suggestions! We have had health setbacks here so work has been slow.

Here is the solution I found thanks to all the help you gave. (And new problems).

The above suggestions led me to track the various components “continuity” in the keyboard circuit. After many hours of work I found an intermittent issue in the displays would go dead randomly. This added confusion to the situation. Finally I found a hairline scratch where someone probably removing the shield over the CPU area slipped (very hard to see). I ran jumpers as the trace repair was too small for my setup.

It worked, and in total 11 traces were found to be cut! Now she is almost working perfectly. Two new issues were discovered:

The signal strength LED’s (red) do not light up. Since I replaced all the trimmers in the unit and Caps, Could this be an adjustment on a trimmer? I tried 6R11 without effect. So I am thinking it may be on Board 8. I do not have a Signal gen etc. to set up things on Board 8. Do board 8 trimmers affect this? Perhaps adjusting a trimmer may give them life? It is at my limit to figure this one out.

 

The second is the tuner will not go lower than 88Mhz but will go up higher than 110Mhz. How is this adjusted?

 

Thanks again guys!

 

 

 

 

[chilibt]

Thanks, good to know I figured experts would not need it.

As this was a “DOA” item with a fuse out of its holder, there was a question as to why the fuse was out. I was nervous to put the fuse in a try it, in case the problem damaged the main IC. In this case, the dim bulb actually told me there was a problem before the fuse blew . On investigation a bad capacitor was discovered.

So in this case it did not prevent anything it seems, it just slowed it down, and if I was faster I could have saved a fuse. I agree that a knowledgeable person could get by without it but I am less than that.

Thanks for the comment though!

I am still trying to find the keyboard problem and why the tested keyboard does not do anything. Any suggestions?

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