chartz
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No doubt, the mighty MS-150s.
Then a pair of Pentas, both missing in my collection.
To me it’s the precision delta too yes. It would a very tiny tolerance in this case!
Found this:
Bonjour Guy, et bienvenue ?
Sois plus précis : de quoi parle-t-on exactement ?
Je ne vois pas du tout où sont ces résistances.
I’d say an erratic bulb perhaps? When it’s on its way out the deck will have the strangest behaviours…
Hi,
I have yet to find an original stylus that is still good, several decades after they were produced. Don’t expect anything from old cartridges. They just don’t work.
Oh good! I read too quickly. All-in-one then. This thing is incredibly cheap. Have fun and share!
Oh yes, this was solved and documented!
You’ll need more than an oscilloscope, like a HF generator, a distortion meter…
Hi,
This is something we have done here for a long time. Since 2009 AFAIC, even if the workbench is not exactly what it used to be.
Always glad that what we have done over the years should still be useful to someone like you!A certain Dillen fellow of this parish is responsible for much of it, by the way! ?????? I for one learnt a lot from him and from a certain M. Jarman about B&O ☺️ (and from many others too obviously).
Jacques
I remember I had to replace the IR diode in one of my decks. An easy task, if it comes to that!
Hi,
This should be in the Workbench, where it’s really at as regards repairs.
Check your connections, and the bulbs, especially the one in the control panel, and if good, check adjustment as per service manual (5-3).
I’d say fair. Will do better next time! A bit teck oil and final polishing will finish it off nicely.
Hi,
There are no corners here. Same with the BM 8000, the plastic pieces take care of the angle, and that makes the task much easier!
The Beogram is more difficult!
There is a special tool for that mind you.
First trim done.
The old veneer peels off easily when heated with an iron. Then white spirit removes the old glue residue.
Will do the cheeks later!
This Beomaster has now been working for many hours a day for the whole week. No issues noted, and I keep being amazed at how sensitive the tuner section is.
They can’t go bad but resistors and caps may change values and re-alignment required anyway, even when the device has never been touched. Sometimes especially if the tuner was never revised!
Some tuners never get misaligned though, and that’s impressive. I have a Beomaster 5000 (1967) that still has its original components and settings and it works perfectly.
I bought two FM3’s of the same period, one had its IF completely out and the other was still perfectly aligned. That’s pretty unpredictable.
Now some designs rely more on trimpots than others.
Radio alignment is difficult and requires a lot of experience, even with the proper tools.
I for one won’t touch it with a barge pole ☺️
The only thing I do is the adjustment of 19 kHz frequency.
And I might add that if the thermal fuse melted, you have to find the cause of that on the main board.
A shorted cap, diode… investigate. Something I still love doing, even though my abilities decline little by little. Enjoy.Hi,
Thanks.
I do remember Craig’s job. The 4400 is all chipwood though.
The tricky part will be to cut it on the edges of the plastic trims.
I intended to glue the raw veneer to the plastic and cut it along afterwards.I also have a Beomaster 8000 to do, one found in a scrapyard that I saved and which actually works. So if that works I’ll do it too.
