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I agree with Søren (hi!). Do replace the aforementioned caps and check for bad solders. So is it just on records or not?
It’s cheap if there’s no rust anywhere and if the heads aren’t worn out. Bogen heads are fragile and soft.
Yes, the Bogen heads can be defective. Not worn necessarily but electrically defective. They don’t like old capacitors at all, so if you find an old machine that hasn’t been powered on for ages, don’t try it. Replace capacitors on playback and record circuits then go ahead.
The BIG problem in those decks are the idler wheels. Normally they should be completely silent, but after all this time they harden and become intolerably noisy. They really ruin the experience, hence my preference for Revox machines over Beocords or Uher machines, which were good, but had only one Papst motor.
You can’t. But are you certain that the laser is toast? Very unlikely.
The laser head should be near the centre – its normal parking position – and the end position switch engaged.
Investigate this. Try to manually slide the laser sled towards centre (done that?, it isn’t clear) and see what happens.
It is glued. You need persuasion (and some patience) to remove the thing.
To remove the old one you need to cut it longitudinally, if that makes sense.
Hi,
Here’s an MMC4000 and an SP12 to illustrate what I wrote above. It’s fairly easy to fit a new cantilever provided the diameter is compatible. ☺️
Jacques
Hi,
Good idea.
Done that, been there! The telescopic repair, I mean.
The MMC is worth a better stylus of course.
I have just repaired a DL103 with broken cantilever (keeping the original broken cantilever). I used a tiny medical needle, and believe it or not, the cartridge sings perfectly.
The SP series are easy to do because they have a spigot on which you can attach the alu tube, with moderate force. No need for glue.
I think the MMC4000 has the spigot too.
The tangentials are my favourite decks.
The Beogram 4000 would be my first choice.
Then the 8000, then the classic 1800 (radial).
The later 5005 series I find a bit flimsy, but they are reliable and much easier to service.
Well done, and thanks for the update, always appreciated ☺️
There is a special thrust pad with a hole and the spindle sits slightly over it. Late Beogram 4000´s had the same kind of bearing, only larger (12 mm if memory serves).
Hi James, and welcome ?
This is absolutely normal for that bearing. It is a self-centering bearing with only one sintered ring at the top. It has a special thrust pad at the bottom.
Hi, and welcome to Beoworld ☺️
That’s indeed the usual failure on these machines. You have to renew every single idler tyre and quite possibly the broken clutch arm.
You will find the correct parts (buy the main belts too, beware of eBay random ones) at Beoparts.
Happy repairs! ?
Bonjour !
Je publie sur le forum anglais, mais j’espère en effet que ça va repartir ici aussi.
La nouvelle interface n’est pas encore des plus réussies. C’est un début.Le plus gros problème c’est qu’il va falloir tout refaire, plutôt que de continuer à alimenter d’anciens fils.
Bonne journée,
Jacques
Great find ?
Don’t forget to replace the electrolytic caps.
I published a story many moons ago, but will the pictures still be here?
If not I probably still have them on my Mac. Please ask.There is just one grille to remove to access the cap.
Good luck!
Jacques
