Beobuddy
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I’ve seen boards where IC1 was “upgraded” to a OPA2134. It a rather silly exercise as IC1 only handles the signal for autodetect. The actual audio signal doesn’t pass IC1 through to the amplifiers.
Every dual opamp which works with symmetrical power supply will do the job.As far as I remember you were able to change settings by repeatedly pressing picture or sound on the BL1000.
When a BL8000 fails to start after a while then most of the times this is caused by a failing NTC, autodetection or steering of the relais.
But as it responds to a trigger signal you can eliminate the NTC and steering for the relais.
So you have to look for the culprit in the autodetection. It happens regurlarly that IC1 fails.
Most of the failing components do not have visible damage. Just with measuring you will find out. For checking the IC a scope has a preference.You just need to place a new cell which can be soldered. There isn’t a holder.
All the backup batteries in masters, centers etc are soldered in B&O products. Only the mainboard in a Beomaster 5 has a holder for it’s BIOS backup battery.Put back the original software. The communication between drive and upc doesn’t work.
Whenever the laser is not focusing, the clamper will open. Yours doesn’t respond anymore, so it has nothing to do with the pickup element.Audiofriends exists already for a long time and is most reliable en knowledgeable.
Hi Veronica,
Distance is relative…
I can provide complete restorations to a considerable serious level whereby components and adjustments are made to achieve a really smooth working Beogram 4002 again.
Just troubleshooting isn’t always the best option especially when you want to avoid unnecessary transport for that “distance”.
Location: The NetherlandsBR, Beobuddy.
It’s a configuration that should work.
By pressing Radio on the remote the BV10 comes to life and drives the BS9000. (V-opt 2 and A-opt 0).
By pressing CD the same happens but the digital signal will overide the analog signal on the powerlink. Still fully wired powerlink cables are needed to control the BL5’s.
Which mk is your BS9000?I can provide the correct transformer for 230V market. Fit’s in the original position.
PM me for details.Ebay and other versions with 15V are incorrect.
Beobuddy.
I happens sometimes. Not often.
It then happens that one of the ic’s on the board underneath the cover has died.
Replace the PCB or just the defective ic.That’s the same as with the Eclipse and Harmony.
The Beoremote One BT act as an 2 way remote. Options are send into the BR1BT.
Under listing of TV/Music you will get the different sources. And under List you’ll get the different options/settings.So, you measure from 7 along the trace to point 3 where the trace is broken.
But, you should have continuity between A and 1, and between B (through 7) and 3. Piece of wire between 7 and 3 will solve it.(or at the point of where the trace is broken)The pins from the original transformer are bend and then soldered. When removing the old burned transformer it is hard not to damage the pad. Even with appropriate tools.
Missing solder pad at the transformer pin below number 1 in your photo? Martin
The missing pads aren’t the problem. The primary winding sits between pin 1 and 3 on that replacement transformer. The old transformer was capable to be used for several voltages and accordingly connected.
Between 1 and 3 you should measure 230V AC. If that’s not there, then there has to be a failure between the (board)connector and the transformer. For T2 there isn’t any voltages to transform.
It (sometimes, rare) happens that the noise filter (Coil) fails. I assume that you thoroughly checked for broken traces.Did you measure on the outer pins of T2? The 2 outer on the left side should have 230V AC and on the right outerside there should be around 36V AC? The bridge on the right side has been done to connect both windings on the secondary side of T2 for symmetrical use/powersupply.
If not, then it will be just a matter of time, I guess.
You can control the Harmony with its soundcenter with the Halo.The Workaround shows that you can use a RJ to RCA cable to provide the Line In with music.
It’s a pity that the BL5’s doesn’t have autosensing in comparison with for instance the BL4/6/8000’s etc. With the BL5’s you still need to switch them on manually with a ir-remote. That’s a bit awkward when you control the latest tv’s and soundbars with a Bluetooth remote 1.If I remember correctly the Wisa speakers transmit also their id’s with the signal. So, wouldn’t it be possible to also send some data with the signal to provide the BL5’s?
Can’t be that difficult I think?It’s funny that there (with one or two exceptions) was no mentioning of a required ethernet connection between tv and soundcenter, as we know it from the previous LG-based Beovisions in the new install videos. Or was what we saw not LG-tv’s, but another brand, just a generic tv? We still need to know how the unit (including the LG-tv functions) is controlled with a Beoremote One. MM
I visited the demo 2 or 3 weeks ago and asked about this.
The LG still have to install a B&O app. But it is a downgraded version of the LG app when you compare it the Harmony’s sound center version.
The app in the LG store is needed to get the remote 1 working.No need to go crazy – your 5’s seem to work great……with PL. A connection with a receiver 1 is – with the 5’s – not possible. At least I know of noone, who has made that possible. MM
A question which did came up last weekend.
B&O still sells these receiver 1’s.
The question is whether these receivers work with BL5’s and directly to let’s say a Harmony, Eclipse or Theatre with Wisa. I know that the BL5 needs the powerlink data to start. Otherwise they switch on but you will have no sound.
Are there different revisions made?
