[auric]

Sound Smith, the people that make the B&O cartridges will also repair B&O

https://www.sound-smith.com/services/general-repair-pricing

Atlantic Systems

http://atlantic-systems.com/

[auric]

You need something like this:

https://soundsheavenly.com/line-in-connection/33-power-amplifier-to-beolab-line-in-attenuated-convertor-kit.html

 

This thread: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beocenter-8000-and-active-speakers/

and in particular Steve’s response applies to your scenario.

Derek

[auric]

I feel this way even today going from a Windows user to a Mac user. I can’t get use to the Mac interface.

Now I’m the opposite on the phone OS. The iphone is second nature to me, but I struggle with android…

Not all B&O interfaces are as tricky as the BS3200.

The Beocenter 9000/9500/9300 is very intuitive. In fact it masks the buttons that are not relevant to the current mode of operation.

The same is true of the Beolink 7000.

[auric]

Check out beolover’s videos on BG 400X turntables:

 

https://www.youtube.com/@beolovervideos

[auric]

Check the transistors eg. TR22 and around the “electronic switch”, eg TR30,32 etc.

I’ve come across a few instances where that are “leaky” and need to be replaced.

You’ve also checked some of the electrolytic capacitors? Most are failing by now.

[auric]

Hi BB:

How far is Leeds from you?

Why don’t you bring it to Multicare and have them advise you?

https://stores.bang-olufsen.com/en_us/united-kingdom/leeds/unit-5a-gate-2-silver-royd-busine

Here’s a video of how the restore 4000c turntables:

Derek

[auric]

Sorry to hear Filip.

But now you get to have some fun 🙂

Email Ruddy, aka Beo Lover: beolover@gmail.com

Derek

[auric]

Dave:

Those are the guys that know vintage B&O well, especially Paul over at Atlantic Systems. I’d send it him, but call first.

Just pack it really well with lots and lots of foam and styrofoam sheets to line the inside of the box. Then double box.

I couldn’t find anyone here in California. L&M Electronics in SF knew B&O, but closed several years ago. I tried Pyramid Audio in Austin, TX, but I didn’t have a great experience with them.

Derek

 

 

 

[auric]

Dave:

Two places to get your BM8000 repaired:

http://atlantic-systems.com/
http://www.esc-website.net/Services.html

Once upon a time, I believe B&O did have a special cable for connecting the output of an amplifier to a low level input. It was called a “z-coupler” or something like that.

Maybe Steve at Sounds Heavenly can make something for you.

I’m not sure things will sound all that great, although I have never tried. The BM8000 was never designed to drive active speakers.

 

Derek

[auric]

Lennart:

The easiest thing is to use a de-soldering iron with vacuum to remove all the solder from around the tabs of the shield.

When the solder has been removed you may have to gently bend the tabs of the shield with pliers while applying heat to align the tab with hole/slot in the circuit board.

Once all of the solder is removed it should be fairly easy to remove the shield.

Derek

 

 

[auric]

The Beogram 4002 was on display as part of a broader B&O exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in 1978.

In that exhibit it was on display vertically as well as horizontally. I don’t think it will function vertically. There’s nothing to hold the platter or the LP in place.

Here’s the picture.

https://www.moma.org/calendar/exhibitions/1786?installation_image_index=8

 

Derek

[auric]

Hi:

Watch this video:

Go to 5:45 mark.

Derek

[auric]

Hello Evan:

Yes the charging base can be converted to run on 120. The primary of the transformer actually has two windings. For 24o, the windings are placed in series which is how yours is wired.

To make it run on 120, you will need to unsolder the primary lugs from the transformer. T Lift them off and fold them over onto the other side of the PCB so that it bypasses the traces which connect the windings in series. Then you can connect the windings in parallel.

You can also cut the traces on the PCB, but I prefer modifications that are non-destructive and can be reversed.

Derek

PS: I’m in SF as well!

 

[auric]

Hi Orava:

Yep. I reflowed all off the solder joints on the connectors. So far still no luck.

 

Derek

[auric]

Hi Die:

Do you happen to know the model/type of battery that inside the BL7000?

I should probably replace it along with the caps.

Derek

[auric]

Hi 69er:

Assuming you didn’t see any magic smoke, you probably blew one of several fuses in the unit and hopefully that is the extent of the damage.

1. Remove the plastic cover where the power cord enters the unit. There are several glass fuses. Check to see if any are blown.
2. There are two round fuses that look like the old ROE hard plastic capacitors. The are cylindrical. They can be found on the circuit board along the back of the unit that is attached to the black heat sink across the back. You don’t need to de-solder them. They are pin mounted and can be gently pulled out. Check to see if there is any continuity.

If there was magic smoke, then you will need to figure out what you shorted out and replace the parts accordingly.

Derek

[auric]

Thanks Die, Martin:

I was just curious why the changes.

Other manufacturers at the time marketed 3 motor mechanisms as being “better.”

ie wow/flutter and capstan stability.

It’s easier for me to keep the existing mechanism. Just need find another mechanism mount that doesn’t have the crumbling plastic problem.

 

 

 

[auric]

Hi Die:

I’m curious, was the 2 Motor mechanism better than the 1 Motor mechanism?

Why the change? Cost reduction?

Derek

[auric]

Hi Martin:

Thank you for this valuable information! Really appreciate it.

I have the single motor version of the cassette mechanism. The problem is that the plastic mounting brackets are all crumbling apart. The weak points are where the self tapping screws attach to the mechanism. It is unavoidable because you must remove the plastic cover at some point to replace the belts.

I tried finding donor parts but they are equally all fragile. I have tried epoxy and various glues but the plastic is too fragile.

The plastic cover on the dual motor cassette mechanism does not have this problem because the plastic cover simply clips onto the mech.

So I thought to simply swap the mechanisms instead?

Martin, maybe you can make an aftermarket replacement 🙂

 

Derek

 

[auric]

Thanks Orava:

There is one transistor, BC 818 that regulates the -9V rail that is prone to fail and I know to check it.

Its really strange that all of the other power supplies are on the big heat sink or implemented with higher current transistors. The BC 818 is a surface mount under the PCB.

On this occasion its not that one.

Right now the laser will seek, but the motor won’t spin. I may move a few degrees but won’t spin up.

Derek

 

 

 

 

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