AdamS
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Whoops – yes, sorry I should have said that.
And don’t worry – we’ve all done it!
If the relay is the same as that used in the MS150.2 loudspeakers that I own, then I believe it is no longer available.
However it”s not difficult to pop the case off the relay and clean its contacts with some fine emery paper, which should do the trick.
It would also be worth replacing any electrolytic capacitors in the protection circuit – if they have aged and dried out then they can cause problems with the circuit’s operation.
I’d say it’s a poor quality cassette shell that has allowed this to happen. You’ll probably have to break the shell apart to fix it, then glue it back together.
They are just an interference fit. Once the drivers are out, give them a tug or a gentle tap with a hammer and they’ll pop off.
I have always struggled with descriptions of audio systems that “sound like the band is there”. I see quite a bit of live music of many genres, and rarely does it sound nearly as good as my home system. The mix isn’t perfect, it’s too loud, the venue has weird acoustics, the audience is noisy, etc. .
As the English comedian Jack Dee once said – “I listen to the Pogues; I don’t WANT them in my lounge…”
I’m afraid that’s the classic noise of a common fault!
The magnetic ring for the FG servo is just above the commutator and when the plastic “tyre” that holds it in place cracks, the loose end gets mixed up with the brushes and makes a noise. Normally just removing the offending loose piece is all you have to do, the ring seems to stay in place by itself.
To do this you have to remove the bottom of the motor, unsolder the PCB and then take off the brush plate. It is much easier to put it back together if you take the pulley off first, then you can insert the rotor into the brush plate before sliding the complete assembly into the stator. Be sure not to lose any of the spacers and washers on the motor shaft, their positions are important. A tiny spot of oil on the two bearings is also a good idea while it is in pieces.
If that sounds all too scary, though, another motor from a turntable of the same range will fit and do the job. Don;t throw the old motor away, though – pass it onto someone for fixing!
I clicked the link and started reading it – I’ll be perfectly honest, I don’t understand a word of it.
Can anyone explain it to a simple engineer in plain English, without phrases like “to launch us into the Metaverse and provide token-gated access to future exclusive Bang & Olufsen products and experiences.”
Thanks!
I don’t know about the Horizon, but we have an Eclipse and the screen activity, speaker group and whether the TV rotates out from the wall on its bracket are all configurable in the setup menus for the relevant input.
I would be surprised if you couldn’t do the same on the Horizon.
I’ve always liked the original Beosound 1 but my good friend Tim Jarman isn’t a fan and so I’m apparently banned from buying one!
Then again, he said the same thing about the Beosystem 10, then promptly bought one from under my nose at a vintage audio sale and loves it, so I may choose to ignore him…
I’ve also always fancied a Beosound 8. Oh, hell, this thread is going to cost me money isn’t it? Thankyou very much Steve!
So, just to clarify, the only Beogram that cannot be upgraded to a Beogram 4000C is………………….a Beogram 4000.
Oh the irony!!
If it’s any consolation, the messages and problems you are experiencing sound almost identical to the problems we had with our Eclipse 65″ when we bought it a few years back. It came from B&O Winchester and it took a couple of visits from their engineer but they sorted it out in the end and it has behaved perfectly for the last three years (touch wood!)
What I’m saying is – keep try and don’t give up. Not only is the end worth it but this is a premium product so be polite but firm that you want it sorted out.
I did indeed and a mix-up by the hotel meant that I was allocated the smallest bedroom in the place – barely bigger than a broom closet.
Luckily I didn’t take a big system with me. Only a Beogram 8002, Beocord 8004, Beomaster 8000 and Beovox MS150.2s! It still sounded fantastic, though – I had lots of compliments and I think I converted a few B&O sceptics. One chap in particular came back around 5 times during the day and kept telling me he’d never heard B&O before and it was the best thing at the show!
Obviously he was quite right….
I’ll be at Tonbridge at the Audiojumble, sadly! (Stalls 13 &14 if anyone is visiting!)
https://www.audiojumble.co.uk/nextevent.html
It’s an Akai AP-003
It’s interesting you use the phrases “sounds nice” and “lacks in terms of highs and clarity” as, unfortunately, to me, that describes the sound of the TX2 turntable and its similar brethren (such as the 5005, 5500, 6500 etc.).
Hence, I would personally say that the problem is the turntable. Those final era linear trackers are lovely things to behold and use (and are easy to service, which is a rare thing to say about B&O!) but I have never never found any of them to sound as good as the same era radial trackers.
In your shoes, I’d keep the MMC3 and buy an RX2.
Indeed.
Distortion of that kind is usually a sign that the cartridge’s suspension is dying.
Personally I’d sell the BL6000s and the BL2 and put the money towards a pair of BL5s.
The idea of shouting “Hey” anything to control something just makes my teeth itch.
The only way I would ever consider any form of voice control is if someone invents a setup that doesn’t repsond unless you say “please” and will turn it off again if you don’t say “thankyou” within 10 seconds of the item starting.
