69er
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I am in Germany. @nbohemen: Could You please share the contact in Utrecht with me?
Best regards69er
Thanx. By hiding the connector section it worked. Was some interference
Ok, solved also the buzz problem. Connected different cables to the Beolabs and now it sounds fine.
Thanx
69er
I think i have an idea. After searching half of the internet and finding one post with some inteference to a plasma screen in the same room – i turned of the light above the player and now it works much better. WEIRD
So it has something to do with the LED lights in my wall lamp.
But – i can still hear the commands of the beo4 with a small buzz in the loudspeaker.
Any idea?
Best regards
69er
Hi Martin,
ich kann etwas löten – messen auch. Aber hauptsächlich wollte ich Deinem highend modding etwas folgen. Habe mehrere Pentas und kann daher auch mal ein Pärchen aufmotzen. Dasselbe würde ich gerne auch mit einem Paar 8000er machen.
Ich dachte dabei hauptsächlich an die Kondensatoren, erinnere mich aber auch an OPs die Du angesprochen hattest.
Viele Grüße
69er
Hallo Martin,
gibt es eine Liste mit den empfohlenen Bauteilen, die man an einer Mk3 wechseln sollte?
Viele Grüße
69er
Hallo Die_Bogener,
ich würde mich gerne in den Weihnachtsferien mal an ein Paar Pentas 6631 dranmachen und sie entsprechend Deiner Empfehlung modden.
Leider finde ich den in vielen Beiträgen erwähnten Workshop nicht. Hast Du evtl. einen noch gültigen link für mich (und evtl. auch eine Teileliste)?
Viele Grüße und vielen Dank für die vielen klasse Hilfestellungen im Forum
69er
MMh,
i exchanged now also the third transistor on the PCB3, changed also another blue capacitor and checked the sockets. I resoldered some, but they looked good .
no change.
The player starts and then stops after about 10 seconds.
What makes me nuts – it needs to be on this PCB as with another one the player worked well.
What else could it be?
best regards
69er
Thanks Derek,
i will try. Please cross fingrs. The item itself really looks nice and everything worked well.
Just need to fix my ouverture on the table, where ic hhave issues with the tape deck(s). Have one, where turn doesn´t work, one where it only spins in one direction (even if fast forward runs in both) and one where turn leads to an immediat stop of all wheels.
69er
Hi Steve,
thank You very much for your help. Much appreciated.
Best regards (from a youtube follower – i learnt so much from your videos)
69er
You should take the 1mm thick one, it´s better. the thinner let you see the glueing tapes.
Now, with the 1mm part, it looks like new. Strange. Somehow to new 🙂
Found something in a store for students of architecture. It´s 0.5mm PVC. Looks exactly like the original.
I checked the secondary keyboard several times (as i had the issue of not sitting correctly with another BS9000). Bu – no – it wasn´t that.
Now i am somehow guessing (after trying to understand the circuit) that the IC14 on PCB32 (74HC138) could be a candidate. I ordered one and will try to exchange that one. Somehow everything around keyboard one and two goes through that IC.
Am i totally wrong?
Best regards+
69er
Hi Mark-fs,
thank You for the hint – i will do so.
What i am wondering, that both (the cd allocaton buttons plus the door opener button) and the main keyboard are not working. Arent these two seperate cables, or do they connect to the same IC and PCB?
Best regards
69er
