DIY Beolab 8000 Wood frets (STLs included).
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WaaauuuW
Briljant!!!I’m going to print the clamps (your stl files) and look locally (The Netherlands) for the best wood (matching my wooden herringbone teak floor)
I saw that your wooden lamellas are angular and original BeoLab 18 lamellas are rounded.
Rounded might look a little nicer/more original?
Hi Tuttivini,
Thank you.
Interesting point you raised, that allow me to add some comments.
I’ve asked my brother in law (the father of the kid who printed the clamps for me) if he would do the same thing and he smiled at me saying “no”. What I understood is “if you have 8000’s keep 8000’s, don’t make them look fakes 18’s or even worse, fake B&O”.
It made me think. But just the pleasure of trying was enough (and the grills were already made at that time). That said, I can’t swear that the fabric covers will never return.All this to say that I rather the 18’s “hommage” over the 18’s “copy” or “makeup”.
On top of that and more grounded, rounding the lamellas would have been a lot of manual work I’m not sur to be able to do. So I went for another way of doing it:The ears are half rounded, and the rounding leads to the angular front-end, making all this quite pleasant in real. Enough to me.
Another detail I like every day when looking at them (and I must say, over other commercial alternatives) is that the chrome top cap of the column stick out of the wood top line. I’ve always thought that the wooden grill on Bl8000’s makes them look weird because our eyes are so trained to “wood=ALT”, they were always missing something. To the point of thinking to add a falser ALTs with Liliviken caps!
And then, I can see this little chrome ring sticking out the wood and it’s enough to me to balance de speaker design.
Now, more seriously, the important part is the clamps (and even more, the back part of the clamp), as a piece or as an idea.
It’s open to anyone to make it better, with thinner lamellas, different angles, better wood or wood work. I did go for cheap, that’s why I’ve advertised a total cost of 50€.See this as a proof of concept and make it better, I’m sure it can.
Next work: the black 80 denier Woolford fret!
Cheers and thank you all for your comments.
And @matador would it also be possible for you to design (stl files) those clamps for the 6000 series?
I have Beolab 8000 and Beolab 6000 and would be a perfect match.
Examples:
And make our own accoustic lens on the beolab 8000
(In The Netherlands I found a person who 3d-printed this top cover. Re-using, rewiring, relocating the original 8000 tweeter).
He sprayed the 3d-printed models with chromespray.
Unfortunately he never shared his desing/stl file….
would it also be possible for you to design (stl files) those clamps for the 6000 series?
In theory, yes. But I don’t have Beolab 6000 to take measurements, do the adjustments and figure out how to fix them using the speakers hooks.
And make our own accoustic lens on the beolab 8000 (In The Netherlands I found a person who 3d-printed this top cover. Re-using, rewiring, relocating the original 8000 tweeter).
This is typically too much for me, cheesy, the wood grills are too large and I would never ever alter the “sonic” design of the speaker more than just playing with the frets.
I suspect ALT is a little more than just a plastic shell over a tweeter. I wouldn’t do that.
It isn’t ‘too much’ for me. I like the modded acoustic lens look on the 80000’s. The Chrome could be a better match with the original 8000 housings, but it looks nice for a modded/diy job… But I totally understand your answer/opinion.
I also heard (from the Dutch person who made the above acoustic lens housings) that the sound from the 8000’s improved…
I want to try it myself.
Unfortunately I’m not able to design/draw this design myself. I know how to use a 3d printer, I have one. I can draw simple designs, but this acoustic lens is a little difficult for me.
I hope to find someone on this forum that wants to share his STL files (they are out there…. Looking at the printed examples in my above photos)
Who knows more about the beolab 8000 acoustic lenses?
I have a question regarding the dimensions in the STL file. When I opened the files the size looks a bit off.
@matador, can you confirm if multiplying the scale factor for x100 will get the right dimensions?
@adyan thank you for the link! I’ve never seen this website before. 450,- euros is a little expensive, but they look excellent!… Still hoping I can find the STL files somewhere online so I can print them myself (and chrome them with spray or in a car-bodyshop)
@matador, can you confirm if multiplying the scale factor for x100 will get the right dimensions?I confirm,
I would have like an “hello” and a “thank you” though. But I’m old fashioned.
(Not the drink… Ok the drink too, but not what I meant, even if… Well, you see, right ?)Still hoping I can find the STL files somewhere online
Tuttivini, I can design an STL based on the widely available 3D Beolab meshes provided by B&O, I can even make them stand on top of BL8000 as an aesthetic add-on. If you want this, just give me some time. they should be visually accurate.
But If you want to replace the 8000’s top plate with a true lens, I see two reasons I can’t help:
First, I won’t dismantle my 8000’s (again) to see how the original top plate is assembled to the column. so I can’t provide an exact replacement part.
Second, as I already said, I suppose ALT is a mix of tweeter size, related curves for the shell and (sound reflectivity?) material. If the first point was net there, I would still be designing look-a-like pieces in the blind hoping they will fit BL8000’s tweeter specs.
Something I thought some time ago… You can find on the second hand market, tweeter from an Audi car installation, they lean a little bit forward and that can make the whole thing look more modern and they should be accurate in rendering, but it’s playing god there…
(Geoff, if you read, please forgive us and remember I never did it!)
@matador, thanks for your detailed answer and your verrrrrrrrrrry appreciated offer to design a STL file. I would love to use it (even if it’s only for test purpose or for a non working aesthetical model…)
I don’t know if you are going to draw it from scratch or use beolab 8000 and beolab 3 files which are already available online. It’s not my expertise, but I found 8000’s and 3’s in 3d renderings on https://3dmdb.com/en/3d-models/beolab/I understand your opinion about the correct working of an ALT tweeter. I don’t expect it will sound the same as my dads Beolab 3’s (without precise calculating/testing the shape of the ALT in combination with the original 8000 tweeter…), but I do want to try it, if possible.
It is easily being build back to stock…
The removal of the beolab 8000 top plate is easy.
I can do it on mine and give you the desired dimensions?
I totally understand that you don’t want to disassemble your 8000’s for ‘my needs’.Good thinking about the Audi Car installation. I always love the Audi A6 Bang&Olufsen automatic raising ALT tweeters in the dashboard 😉
Thx for sharing this with us.
I was looking to replace the fabric but now I have another option! 🙂 🙂
Hi, Thanks for making and sharing this, I am currently printing the required parts.
in message #7586. you mentioned “As suggested by a member I’ll upload the file to thingiverse or similar platform for public access. I’ll also try to contact Christian Leicht who as a portal with printable B&O parts.”
Is that https://leicht.io/projects/3d-models ?
thanks again !
i have one speaker done and it looks wonderful.I used a bit bigger bars these are 18mm long, and I had to cut them to size right there in the store. did try to trim them a bit but they ended with a bit of a difference. it’s okay for a diy project and it doesn’t look bad
I think I might had to print the files a little bit bigger, cause either my printer is out of spec or the wood is. I had some problems getting everything to fit.
I ended up using some wood glue and sanding a lot. at least that made it a nice solid part now.
will probably also at some wood oil to darken it a bit, cause this is a bit to much construction wood color (also need to finish the wall behind it)
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