Beogram1203 knocking noise

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  • #24389
    alf
    SILVER Member
      • Topics Started 22
      • Total Posts 118

      Hi All,

      i finally got around to do some work on my Beogram1203:

      fitting new motor bearings and the newly designed idler wheel.

      the motor sounds fine and quiet but that “knocking noise” seem to come from the

      idler wheel assembly and just won’t get away.

      It sounds a lots less noisy when I gently push the “speed adjusting” wheel, located on the left side of the plinth.

      as I understand the brass tongue which lifts the idler wheel up or down has to sit in

      the groove of the idler wheel or did I get this wrong ??

      I would be most grateful for some pointers/advice……spent enough time without

      eliminating this issue.

      thank you

      ALF

      #24504
      spassmaker
      BRONZE Member
        • Topics Started 12
        • Total Posts 114

        Hi Alf

        The brass tounge has to sit in the groove tha s right. At the tip of the tounge is a kind of feltwasher, sometimes missing.

        Where did you get the “new” idler wheel?

        If you got yours from Martin (Beoparts) the new wheel should run quiet. These wheels are made very well.

        Did you mount a new belt? If not order one from Martin he provides the right ones with the right specs. Do not buy any from E-B…. No orange silicone ring.

        Hope that helps a little bit.

        Kind regards

        Christian

        The things in the motordrive are working all together.

        #24515
        alf
        SILVER Member
          • Topics Started 22
          • Total Posts 118

          Hi Chris,

          many thanks for your reply….sounds like I have done everything correctly ?!?

          yes, the newly designed idler came from Beoparts, not ebay !

          you are right, that little felt tip of the brass tongue is missing – I had ordered a replacement….but fitting that tiny thing turned out to be unsuccessful, instead I used some similar material. That should not cause the issue I would think.

          yes again, the new belt came from Beoparts ?

          sounds like I have to get back to the 1203 and do some further searching…..but I am running out of ideas…..so, keep them coming please.

          regards

          ALF

          #24519
          spassmaker
          BRONZE Member
            • Topics Started 12
            • Total Posts 114

            Hi Alf

            The felt pad or whatever you took should fit not tight into the groove. Check if the idler runs nearly free when you spin it with the finger in both 33/45 RPM without motor. The size of the felt pad is critical, a little bit too big and it would slow down the idlerwheel significantly.

            The stepped pulley is nice and clean?

            Btw, had a knocking noise when the shaft of the motorchassis was hitting the speedselector shifter bar (part No.35).

            The chassis has to be aligned that the shaft is in the middle of the gap. Have a closer look in this area. You can align it by turning the washers that hold the springs of the motorchassis.

            There should be no contact from any parts to the main chassis.

            Look page 13 of SM ( Beogram 1200) “the most frequent cause of motor noise, hum and rumble in the Beogram 1200 is defect in the mouning of chassis and motor……”

            #24544
            alf
            SILVER Member
              • Topics Started 22
              • Total Posts 118

              Hi Chris,

              good points which I thought I had covered but will certainly have another look !!

              I am aware that tiny felt pad can not be too thick as it would otherwise act as a

              break pad.

              once the workbench is free again I shall have another go and will report back as usual.

              regards

              ALF

              #24546
              Dillen
              Moderator
                • Topics Started 3
                • Total Posts 587

                It can be the idler wheel. A short production run of wheels was completed, and some
                were already sold, before it was discovered, that the rubber compound wasn’t quite
                as homogenic as it should have been from the raw material supplier.
                Production was of course halted, and most buyers who potentially could have been affected, were contacted directly.
                Luckily, the majority reported no problems but a few had issues as you describe.
                I cannot say if the wheel you sit with is one from this batch, – but it could be.
                If the wheel is indeed the problem, I suggest you contact the shop. They will have a solution.

                Martin

                #24548
                alf
                SILVER Member
                  • Topics Started 22
                  • Total Posts 118

                  Thank you Martin – I have contacted the Beoparts shop.

                  it is indeed not easy to see any faults on that wheel with the naked eye.

                  lets wait and see what comes out of it….

                  regards

                  ALF

                  #25063
                  alf
                  SILVER Member
                    • Topics Started 22
                    • Total Posts 118

                    Hi All,

                    beoparts shop was so kind and sent a replacement idler wheel which arrived yesterday.

                    It is now installed and that knocking issue has disappeared – great outcome.

                    thanks again to Martin who pointed out a possible wheel problem.

                    records are playing as we speak….off to the next project.

                    regards, ALF

                     

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